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  #1  
Old 12-05-2019, 04:24 AM
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01 bmw x5 3.0i over cooling

Hi
I have a 3.0i that has a new thermostat and new fan assembly but it is over cooling. It will only warm up to 1/4 even on the freeway. the cooling system was all new a couple years ago with new radiator hoses, heater solenoids, water pump thermostat. I just put a new thermostat because that is the most common issue. Could it be the radiator or the aux heat pump? this is an automatic transmission. from what i have read the bottom section of the radiator is for the transmission cooling. This is driving me nuts trying to figure this out. Thanks. let me know if you could use any further info that would help.
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  #2  
Old 12-05-2019, 08:13 AM
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Please confirm the 1/4 gauge reading by unlocking the cluster to show actual coolant temps in celsius - please search on "unlocking cluster E53" I believe it is test 7. You can observe temp readings in this way while driving. you should see 95-100 celsius, or so.

The temp sensor in that car is actually a dual temp sensor (one feeds the gauge & the other feeds test 7 - among others). It is screwed into the top (head) of the engine under the intake manifold. It is tight, but can be replaced without removing the intake manifold. We are getting some recent reports of this sensor failing.

Last edited by Effduration; 12-05-2019 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:39 AM
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This time of year when the temps drop, it is almost always a soft fail thermostat.

I know you said you replaced it but can you tell me what thermostat you replaced it with and where you got it?

Does the engine temp ever come up to normal range on the gauge around city streets and only drop when you get to highway speeds?
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Old 12-05-2019, 09:10 AM
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I just had this last week. My indy had fitted an Autozone thermostat last year because I had not supplied one when I dropped off the car and, with Christmas coming up in a few days, neither of us wanted to wait for the replacement to be shipped.
Fast forward 11 months and there we went again. A FCP supplied thermostat later and the needle (and temperatures according to my always plugged in Scangauge) are back to normal range.
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Old 12-05-2019, 10:15 AM
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Our gauges are not real time meters that are calibrated. If they were, then every time you stop at a light you would see the NORMAL 10-29 degree increase, causing a panic among the average BMW owner who would in turn be calling the dealer asking for a FIX! The 1970-80's models showed this exact response. So now gauges only display an indicator.
Get out the temp meter and read the actual temp.
Does that hose actually read cold? IF YES, Replace the open and stuck thermostat as mentioned above. Cheap thermostats fail all the time. Some of the good ones fail too.
Does the interior heater blow hot air? Did you measure the temp?
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Last edited by StephenVA; 12-05-2019 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 12-05-2019, 11:26 AM
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The BMW gauge is just one step up from the gauge I had in my 1996 V8 Explorer Limited. Ford actually made it that it could work but substituted a fixed resistor on the cluster board instead of reading from a variable sensor. Same thinking at work: If our idiot drivers see the temperature going up and down they'll keep complaining during the warranty period and cost us money!
I long for the days of my 70's era BMW gauges that actually told you the truth.
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Old 12-05-2019, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulu95 View Post
The BMW gauge is just one step up from the gauge I had in my 1996 V8 Explorer Limited. Ford actually made it that it could work but substituted a fixed resistor on the cluster board instead of reading from a variable sensor. Same thinking at work: If our idiot drivers see the temperature going up and down they'll keep complaining during the warranty period and cost us money!
I long for the days of my 70's era BMW gauges that actually told you the truth.
That is a fairly easy fix.

I programmed my gauge to show real values with a 10C buffer (instead of the ridiculous 40C buffer) at center and lowered the overall threshold to 115C to give me a safety in case of an overheat event.

I posted my DIY below. I know exactly what temps I am running at all times.

https://xoutpost.com/1121333-post23.html


Last edited by Overboost; 12-05-2019 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 12-05-2019, 12:19 PM
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01 bmw x5 3.0i over cooling

I have a maxisys 908bt and monitor the actual reading. with the heater on, the temp will drop to about 140F. With the heater off it will sit at around 200F.
I have had original older type bmw replacement thermostat and 2 aftermarket thermostats.The inlet temp at the radiator runs around 100F. I put a Dormen thermostat on last night and I get the same issue.
I have been chasing this problem for 2 years now. I rebuilt this motor and cooling system 2 years ago from bare block up. The motor and components only have 40k on it. The car runs great but in the winter the gas milage goes down because the computer see's the car as not at full running temp while the heat is on. Both temp sensors have been changed to make sure those were not the issue.
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Old 12-05-2019, 01:03 PM
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200F to 140F ? That's a big drop due to the heater. I have never seen that big of a drop and when it does drop it seems only temporary
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Old 12-05-2019, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Effduration View Post
Please confirm the 1/4 gauge reading by unlocking the cluster to show actual coolant temps in celsius - please search on "unlocking cluster E53" I believe it is test 7. You can observe temp readings in this way while driving. you should see 95-100 celsius, or so.

The temp sensor in that car is actually a dual temp sensor (one feeds the gauge & the other feeds test 7 - among others). It is screwed into the top (head) of the engine under the intake manifold. It is tight, but can be replaced without removing the intake manifold. We are getting some recent reports of this sensor failing.
EDIT - I was WRONG that on my 2001 3.0i, the sensor for the coolant temp gauge is in the lower radiator hose.
EDIT - That is a different coolant sensor - not related to the sender for the ECU + instrument panel. When the cooling system is de-pressurized (cooled down), that sensor can be easily removed without coolant spillage, even though it is at a low point (expansion tank cap in place, and nothing taken apart). It just unclips and pulls out, all done from above, sealed with an o-ring.

Good info on the temp gauge reprogramming. I followed overboost's lead on that with good results. Breakpoint values listed around here:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ml#post1163366

If the new thermostat were stuck wide open, what sort of temps would be seen?
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Last edited by oldskewel; Yesterday at 04:39 PM.
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