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  #11  
Old 12-08-2019, 01:46 PM
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Foxwell will show cam angles both requested vs actual. I've used to determine that was the cause of problems but even when cam angles not matching the problem was the cam position sensor not the solinoid.
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  #12  
Old 12-13-2019, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyzcar View Post
Just ones from ebay but surely all 4 wouldnt be bad would they?
I swapped the old ones back in and it made no difference.

Trying to drive it causes failsafe to kick in now.
There's part of your problem, you are installing crap from eBay on your BMW. Better to go to a Pick N Pull and get some used genuine BMW part instead of that crap from eBay or Amazon.
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Old 12-13-2019, 08:48 PM
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I'll use chineseium parts in some places but not for mission critical parts like cam and crank sensors.

I did use a knock off abs sensor recently because they are so easy to replace and 1/4 the price.


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Old 09-08-2020, 04:52 PM
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To follow up the problem is I need intermediate levers. After learning how the engine uses the valvetronics it makes sense.So anyone having issues like this and X5 with 4.4 2004 2005 you might have the same issue.
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Old 09-08-2020, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnyzcar View Post
To follow up the problem is I need intermediate levers. After learning how the engine uses the valvetronics it makes sense.So anyone having issues like this and X5 with 4.4 2004 2005 you might have the same issue.


Grab yourself a good scanner, like the Foxwell or similar, and go through the Vanos reset and adaptation process. I too was told that I needed intermediate levers and when I did my VSS I verified that in fact I did. That said, YEARS ago, when I was first told this may be an issue, I went through the Vanos reset and adaptation process with my Foxwell and, VERY luckily, haven’t had a significant issue since. Every once in a blue moon, on REALLY cold mornings I may have to blip the throttle once or twice to clear a small stumble, but hey, I’ll take that over pulling the top end apart again.

Good luck!! 🤞


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Old 09-08-2020, 11:17 PM
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Thanks I have pretty much changed or checked everything except the eccentric shaft and intermediate levers. It ran better but still had the SES light on but now it flashes on startup and runs rough all the time. I had read somewhere on the forum that if I disconnected the electric solenoid on top of the valve cover and manually ran the limit out to fully engage the valve lift that it would run better. I have reset adaptations and reset limits using ISTA+ many times but no change in the condition. My question now is get levers and eccentric shaft which is pretty expensive or just levers. I wish BMW would fix this but I guess that recall has come and gone.
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Old 09-09-2020, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyzcar View Post
Thanks I have pretty much changed or checked everything except the eccentric shaft and intermediate levers. It ran better but still had the SES light on but now it flashes on startup and runs rough all the time. I had read somewhere on the forum that if I disconnected the electric solenoid on top of the valve cover and manually ran the limit out to fully engage the valve lift that it would run better. I have reset adaptations and reset limits using ISTA+ many times but no change in the condition. My question now is get levers and eccentric shaft which is pretty expensive or just levers. I wish BMW would fix this but I guess that recall has come and gone.


When I originally did my research BMW of America told me that all I would need would be the intermediate levers themselves, that there probably hadn’t been enough wear to worry about the eccentric shafts themselves. It was also explained to me to be a lever specific issue, too “short” to provide the correct lift when cold, and not a function of the shaft “not moving it far enough”, if that makes any sense.

Super bummer on the reset and adaptations, I should have assumed you’d tried that already with all the detail you’ve already gone through.

That said, you can remove the lift motors, reseat and reset them, that will not change how they operate but it will change their initial engagement point with the shaft itself and may make some difference. I’ve had mine out when I did my VSS job and all I did was unscrew, twist out to stop, pull up and set them on the bench. Install was just the opposite, set in, give a slight tap to seat, twist until seated or nearly seated on valve cover, bolt back down and go through reset and adaptations again. Who knows, if you haven’t already pulled them and cleaned them up a bit, it certainly can’t hurt


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