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  #11  
Old 01-21-2020, 12:20 PM
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At least on M54 you don't have to remove the front engine cover to adjust the reukuxtor plates and camshaft bolt.

On the M62 the damned camshaft bolt is exactly centered on the valve cover so half the bolt is below the timing chain cover.

If I had to adjust the timing after the TC cover was on I'm pretty sure my upper cover would be modified to look like the back where the valve cover has a half circle (for no apparent reason) so I could access the cam bolt with the TC cover on.

The M54 has a lot less to remove to get to the timing. If you don't have the timing kit see if you can rent one or you can make one for holding the cams not too difficult you just need to hold the square blocks parallel to the head: two pieces of 1/4" bar stock, one long enough to reach across the head and one that exactky fits between the two cams, tape the two together and once you get it in place some zip ties to hold it against the cams.

For the front is a bit trickier as you saw from the video getting the vanos set to the right depth but I'm betting that somebody has measured that exact depth and you could set with a digital calipers vs using the fancy metal jig.

For the chain pretension: you can use a chain tensioner just put a dowel in place of the inner piston so you can apply chain tension while engine not running.
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  #12  
Old 01-21-2020, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
At least on M54 you don't have to remove the front engine cover to adjust the reukuxtor plates and camshaft bolt.

On the M62 the damned camshaft bolt is exactly centered on the valve cover so half the bolt is below the timing chain cover.

If I had to adjust the timing after the TC cover was on I'm pretty sure my upper cover would be modified to look like the back where the valve cover has a half circle (for no apparent reason) so I could access the cam bolt with the TC cover on.

The M54 has a lot less to remove to get to the timing. If you don't have the timing kit see if you can rent one or you can make one for holding the cams not too difficult you just need to hold the square blocks parallel to the head: two pieces of 1/4" bar stock, one long enough to reach across the head and one that exactky fits between the two cams, tape the two together and once you get it in place some zip ties to hold it against the cams.

For the front is a bit trickier as you saw from the video getting the vanos set to the right depth but I'm betting that somebody has measured that exact depth and you could set with a digital calipers vs using the fancy metal jig.

For the chain pretension: you can use a chain tensioner just put a dowel in place of the inner piston so you can apply chain tension while engine not running.
That is why you need the German Auto Solutions M54 Vanos alignment plate.


Like I have said on this forum many of time you need the right tools to work on a BMW. Plus if you don't know what you are doing you can go on the internet and see how it should be done before tearing into it.
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  #13  
Old 01-21-2020, 07:11 PM
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Thank you both for your help.

It is still unclear to me as to why the timing would be off from removing the VANOS housing. Only logical explanation I can come up with is that it is because the VANOS pistons are bolted to the camshaft and therefore their depth needs to be set to the proper place when putting them back on.

Anyway, I went to the German Auto Solutions web store and I see this note on the description of their timing tool kit:
These tools are required when replacing cam chains, cam chain guides, camshafts or when removing and replacing the cylinder head.
As we can see, VANOS replacement and VANOS o-ring rebuild is not in that list, and I did not do any of the processes they list as part of replacing the o-rings. But maybe they just did not include all the reasons their kit would be required.

Anyway, I am still deciding whether or not I should do this timing adjustment or take it to someone. If I continue driving it as it is what is the worst that can happen? WW-III ensues?
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  #14  
Old 01-22-2020, 12:09 PM
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How does one address P0014 (DTC 104) & P0011 (DTC 103) ?

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Originally Posted by jac View Post


It is still unclear to me as to why the timing would be off from removing the VANOS housing. Only logical explanation I can come up with is that it is because the VANOS pistons are bolted to the camshaft and therefore their depth needs to be set to the proper place when putting them back on.


From the video is pretty clear the timing tool is used to set the depth of the center of the vanos. That probably is how the start point is set for how much the cam is twisted.

It appears that the tool only is used to set that depth: the angle of the reluctor wheel appears to have an index mark to align to the head.

If itís just about the depth Iím saying that itís likely somebody has used a digital calipers to measure the depth and the magic tool is not actually a requirement.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 01-22-2020 at 01:04 PM.
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  #15  
Old 01-26-2020, 11:50 PM
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@andrewwynn: Thanks! I am likely gonna buy this kit.

Today I removed the intake side solenoid, cleaned it and tested it (12vdc) and it works just fine. I also removed the piston and spring, they were not seized or anything. I also replaced the intake camshaft sensor with the new one. I reassembled it all and cleared the codes. I will drive it tomorrow, but since the solenoid, piston and spring weren't seized, I am not too hopeful the codes won't come back after some miles of driving like they did before and after I pulled off the VANOS housing.

One thing that is bugging me though is that these past days the diagnostic software tools always show the status of VANOS as yellow. This is the case with engine off (expected?), parked with the engine ON, and while driving (street and highway speed). Below is the screenshot of what I am referring to (see items within red rectangle).

Andrewwynn, if it is not too much to ask, do you mind checking the status of the VANOS on your X5 while idle and while driving? It would help me a great deal.

Thanks!

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  #16  
Old 01-27-2020, 01:38 AM
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I just use a scanner so I canít read the same screen/data.

I did take these two snapshots tiny though:




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  #17  
Old 01-27-2020, 02:50 PM
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Ok, thanks Andrewwynn!

If anyone else happens to know if/how/when the VANOS monitors on PASoft (BMW Scanner 1.4) or INPA are supposed to go GREEN, I'd appreciate that input!
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Old 01-27-2020, 05:16 PM
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That live data is saying vanos is non operational. There is something shutting down the system. Are you getting codes still. It shows no MIL bottom left so hints at no error which makes no sense.
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  #19  
Old 01-27-2020, 08:57 PM
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At the time I took that snapshot, I had just cleared the errors. That's why the MIL shows OFF...

It was doing this same thing before I took off the vanos housing to replace the o-rings.

I drove today, and sure enough, like clockwork, the errors came back: I drove it for 10 miles, then parked and shut it off, started the engine and the errors came back. Same ones: DTC 103 and DTC 104.

Really stupid question: the VANOS is driven mechanically by the camshaft, right? If so how can it ever be "off"?
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Last edited by jac; 01-27-2020 at 09:06 PM.
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  #20  
Old 01-27-2020, 09:02 PM
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I suspect the lack of zero out the vanos during assembly puts the system in a state it can't achieve the required range of motion and shuts down.

Don't expect improvement until timing is set properly. Did you order the timing kit?
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