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  #31  
Old 01-28-2020, 12:49 AM
jac jac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
Since you never time a vanos engine before I would suggest that you bring it in and let a tech that know what he is doing perform the service. Buying all the special tool that is required to perform the job will not result in any cost saving.
Yes, the thought has crossed my mind plenty of times over the past few days of course...

But I have been researching the timing procedures and it really doesn't look complicated and the tools I thought were only these.

What other specialized tools do I need? Only other one I can think-of is the torque tool that can measure 0.7 N-M.

Or perhaps you mean that such versions of the tools are not accurately built so one really needs to buy these to do the job correctly?
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  #32  
Old 01-28-2020, 01:04 AM
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Looks like you can rent the GAS for just net $60. You won't beat the quality. That said the process is actually pretty simple any decent mechanic can follow the steps. I would reference the GAS steps regardless whos tool you use.


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  #33  
Old 01-28-2020, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Looks like you can rent the GAS for just net $60.
Would you mind sharing the name of the place where it can be rented?
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  #34  
Old 01-28-2020, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jac View Post
Would you mind sharing the name of the place where it can be rented?
Dr Vanos use to sell and rent out the vanos alignment tool, not sure if they are still renting them out since it appears that they are sold out of the tool.

https://drvanos.com/products/m54-tool-kit-rental
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  #35  
Old 01-28-2020, 10:13 AM
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How does one address P0014 (DTC 104) & P0011 (DTC 103) ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jac View Post
Would you mind sharing the name of the place where it can be rented?


It was in the GAS link you have above. (Where is says read this first).


https://germanautosolutions.com/stor...ental-bmw-m54/
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  #36  
Old 10-12-2020, 10:01 PM
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Ok. I am finally getting around to do this... I bought the kit.

I have watched many videos on youtube, but these 3 are the best ones I think...

https://youtu.be/eNcbfAbTCb4
https://youtu.be/lQ-dfqX4zrE. <<= My Favorite one so far
https://youtu.be/OUKioU8p8p0

Many of the videos show the air intake manifold removed as the guy inserts the flywheel locking pin. Is it really necessary to remove the intake manifold or is it enough to just remove the airfilter along with the ducts all the way to (and including) the elbow? My favorite one seems did it without pulling the manifold off, but not sure if he could do it because he's familiar with the process or not.

Do you have any other videos or tips? Please share! :-)

I am gonna tackle this soon because my inspection runs out at the end of the month and it won't pass with the check-engine light on...
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Last edited by jac; 10-12-2020 at 10:11 PM.
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  #37  
Old 10-17-2020, 08:53 PM
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Ok, I took the darn thing apart, but I ran into a pair of issues already. :-(

1. The tensioner that comes with the M54 timing kit I purchased is not long enough to grab unto the threads on the engine head block. Arghhh! Anyone know of a tensioner tool that I can buy that works for sure? Or if you have one that works, could I borrow it?

2. The reverse threaded bolts that attach the vanos to the sprocket cones are refusing to come off the vanos. I have the vanos unit out, but those things seem to have become seized in the washer that's inside the piston so they just spin as I try to remove them. I guess I am gonna have to take the piston apart and see if I can get them off by grabbing the washer on a wooden vise.


BTW, in case anyone reads this in future: You don't technically have to remove anything to insert the pin that locks the flywheel, but it is difficult to see if you leave the intake boot in place. So remove the air intake boot and you'll have a good view of the little hole where the locking pin goes.
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  #38  
Old 10-18-2020, 12:50 AM
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On the M62, the vanos bolts seize so bad your can break the T55 socket; you need to hit the bolt with a hammer just before removing the bolt.
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  #39  
Old 10-18-2020, 12:46 PM
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Thanks Andrew. I took one of the pistons apart and got the bolt out by holding the washer on a vise and spinning the bolt.

So I examined that bolt and I see it has small grooves. See photo.

So, yes, as you say: you can gently hit it with a hammer to take it out and that's what I did for the 2nd bolt without having to take the piston apart. :-). I also did use some rust breaker on both bolts which I think helped a lot.

I also have figured out how to make a "tensioner": I watched a video where a guy was rebuilding an engine and he basically used the housing of the actual tensioner with something in it to exert tension. So I did the same, see photos. :-)
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Old 10-18-2020, 08:38 PM
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And... the guide is broken, it is snapped in half. It also looks like the piece of it that sticks downwards broke off some time ago. wow...

I will stick the endoscope camera in there tomorrow and see if it is somewhere down there, but I doubt it, I am thinking it got broken up into small pieces and melted.
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