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  #1  
Old 01-25-2020, 05:14 PM
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Heater Control Valve 4.8is Cabin Temperature

As the Northern Hemi has rolled into winter, and as such, A/C usage wanes to heater usage, I have found that my 4.8is has the oddest climate control issue. While I have searched here and other forums, most all of those issues were solved by simply shelling out the dollaridoos for a replacement heater control valve unit and swapping that in for the old one. However, mine is somewhat new as well as the hoses. Service records from the PO reveal that this unit was replaced about 20k miles ago. Appearance wise, the unit and hoses even looks new.


The issue is this: when the truck is turned on and creeps toward operating temperature (and at operating temperature), the front & rear cabin temperature is nice and warm and cozy. But, after about 15 to 20 minutes of driving the front cabin temperature drops off to what feels slightly cooler than room temperature while the rear climate control vents (back side of center console/arm rest) is still billowing out pretty toasty air. The dash center vent dial is also set at warm. However, setting this dial to cold makes the air unpleasantly cold. Real cold.


To the touch, the hoses at the heater control valve are warm/hot between the rad and valve, but from the firewall to heater control valve those two respective hoses are warm, but not scalding. Turning the key to POS 2 and touching both solenoids on the heater control valve appear to be working but I'm not exactly sure how obvious this is supposed to be. Conducting a continuity test shows that the installed unit is showing continuity between pins 1+ & 3- as well as 1+ & 2- (three pin connector). This test is consistent with a new heater control valve unit I have.


The current heater control valve can possibly be fried, yet looking new. That wouldn't be uncommon. However, the heat throughout the car for the first 15 minutes or so then falling off once I get on the freeway is consistent and perplexing to me. Are there any other tests I can perform before replacing this heater control valve or worse - getting into the dash for something else?
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Old 01-25-2020, 05:41 PM
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You have the recirc mode on? Got to eliminate the easy stuff first.

Electrically is not the heater control valves usual mode of failure. Typically the inside valves get gummed up as the rubber deteriorates over time. Have not seen an electrical failure yet over my, admittedly small, sample size of 5ish. If you are so inclined to open up the old one it is rather easy and would allow inspection. Only "gotcha" is to be careful of the small wire leads.

But you are getting heat in the rear so I'm not sure the valve is your issue. Maybe a diverter flap (the fresh air one for instance) is stuck and not closing?
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Old 01-25-2020, 06:09 PM
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Heater valves are are open at rest state and closed with PWM voltage from IHKA (AC control unit). When the problem occurs you can disconnect the plug on valves for test purposes.

If the fan inside IHKA fails the temperature inside the unit (where interior heat sensor is also located) warms up after longer drive and can cause lower heat demand than anticipated. You can use smoke or a piece of paper to test if air is drawn into IHKA via the grill on the fascia.
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Old 01-25-2020, 06:30 PM
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Be sure you have enough coolant and heat cycle and bleed the air and check the fluid level a couple times. On my 3.0 I have a slow coolant loss some where yet to be determined and when it gets a bit low but not overheating, the forward heater blows cold.
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Old 01-25-2020, 06:50 PM
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I am chasing something similar..In my case the passenger side gets cold with no warning after 15 minutes or so of driving.

My Heater control valve also looks new and shiny..Previous owner said he replaced it. Since it has the elec connector on the side closest to brake booster, I know it is not OEM (OEM has it on the engine side). And the OEM unit was not shiny. I haven't replaced it yet, but I hear bad things about aftermarket heater valves.
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Old 01-25-2020, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
You have the recirc mode on? Got to eliminate the easy stuff first.

Maybe a diverter flap (the fresh air one for instance) is stuck and not closing?

Oh my god, recirculation mode was on. Just kidding, it's off. The diverter flap, where is this located?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Clavurion View Post
IHKA

What is this IHKA and where is it located?




Quote:
Originally Posted by ahlem View Post
Be sure you have enough coolant and heat cycle and bleed the air and check the fluid level a couple times.

Plenty of coolant, new cap and properly bled with the temp setting on high, blower low and all that good stuff.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Effduration View Post
I am chasing something similar..In my case the passenger side gets cold with no warning after 15 minutes or so of driving.

My Heater control valve also looks new and shiny..Previous owner said he replaced it. Since it has the elec connector on the side closest to brake booster, I know it is not OEM (OEM has it on the engine side). And the OEM unit was not shiny. I haven't replaced it yet, but I hear bad things about aftermarket heater valves.

Keep me posted in what you find!
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Old 01-25-2020, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5M-ISH View Post
What is this IHKA and where is it located?
IHKA = AC control panel.
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Old 01-26-2020, 12:05 AM
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Wife’s car will act pretty similar and seems to be related to the sampling fan in the dash.

Example: my car will stay nice and cold when set to 73°, or nice and warm when set to 73°.

Hers on AC tend to have to use 69-70 or 75-76 to get the same cabin heat.

I’ve cleaned the grill on the sampling fan and it improves, but never as good as my car.

A good test for the sampling fan is with the controls on auto , set the temp lower until the fan speed drops to almost nothing that will tell you what the dash thinks the temp of the cabin is. If that doesn’t match it’s almost certainly the sampling fan
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Old 01-26-2020, 07:08 AM
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What fault codes do you have (Carly other other software that read the body and other modules)? IHKA part could be it. Given the age of the car, whilst not the typical symptoms, it could be a good time to proactively replace the final stage resistor (FSR).
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Old 01-26-2020, 12:07 PM
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What was the ambient temp outside when having the issue? A very common cause is a stuck open thermostat.

The dial on the dash looks like but is not a gauge. It’s more of a 3 position idiot light. Pull up the actual engine temp with the hidden menu (I think it’s 9 ) and confirm the temp gets to and stays close to 90 c. (Might be slightly different on the 8, I have the 6).
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