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  #21  
Old 05-19-2020, 12:52 PM
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This is starting the get interesting. So did you actually renew those connector pins on the pressure sensor? Have you now tried removing the sensor plug when it's refusing to start?

In basic those fuel pressure figures look just fine and it's normal that rail pressure drops quite quickly after turning off. But is it always showing that 276,36 bar rail pressure when refusing to start and what does it then show with ignition pos.2 before cranking?
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  #22  
Old 05-19-2020, 01:46 PM
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Hi Clavurion - thanks for the replies again

So if I remove the HP pressure sensor plug, it still does not start.

On the ignition only position - the value (when connected) reads as 0.

First value is the Pre-supply LP Bar, 2nd the HP Rail Pressure Bar during a hot start attempt.

9["3.80","0.00","440.12","1378.62","35.00","0.00","2 4.52"]
:["3.80","20.47","440.12","1303.70","35.00","1.47"," 23.11"]
:["3.62","286.59","440.12","764.24","25.00","1.41"," 23.11"]
:["3.62","286.59","440.12","759.24","25.00","1.41"," 23.11"]
:["3.62","286.59","440.12","759.24","25.00","1.62"," 26.79"]
:["3.62","286.59","481.06","754.25","25.00","3.35"," 35.88"]
:["3.61","286.59","491.30","759.24","25.00","3.90"," 46.85"]
:["3.61","286.59","501.54","754.25","25.00","3.92"," 56.08"]
:["3.62","276.36","440.12","754.25","25.00","1.41"," 23.12"]
:["3.79","255.89","440.12","964.04","35.00","1.41"," 23.12"]
;["3.80","143.30","440.12","1388.61","35.00","1.41", "24.53"]
9["3.80","81.88","460.59","1378.62","35.00","0.00"," 0.00"]
9["3.80","51.18","286.59","1378.62","35.00","0.00"," 0.00"]
9["3.80","30.71","286.59","1378.62","35.00","0.00"," 0.00"]
9["3.80","20.47","286.59","1378.62","35.00","0.00"," 0.00"]
9["3.80","10.24","286.59","1378.62","35.00","0.00"," 0.00"]
9["3.80","10.24","286.59","1378.62","35.00","0.00"," 0.00"]
9["3.80","10.24","286.59","1378.62","35.00","0.00"," 0.00"]
9["3.80","10.24","286.59","1378.62","35.00","0.00"," 0.00"]
8["3.80","0.00","286.59","1378.62","35.00","0.00","0 .00"]

On the Pins - It's a brand new pressure sensor so they should be ok, on the connector pins I did not renew, but my logic says that as I was getting the reference voltage and constant readings from the sensor, it is likely not the pressure sensor nor the connector that is causing the problems ?. I'm totally happy to cut off the connector and solder to the sensor pins directly if this resolves it ?..
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  #23  
Old 07-12-2020, 04:24 PM
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Finally fixed !

So after still experiencing hot start issues - I think I may have found the culprit. Despite saying in my initial post, I did not replace the crankshaft speed sensor but infact the camshaft sensor.

Both these sensors give the SAME error code - '1E25'

I noticed on all non-starts that this error code always showed again, despite me replacing with a new camshaft sensor. After a bit of digging on newTIS, it says the crankshaft sensor also gives the same error -

So after replacing this (see below), hot starts now appear to be ok.

E52 3.0d CRANKshaft sensor DIY

The crankshaft sensor is fairly tricky to get to and unless you remove the starter motor, you are totally blind so you need to replace via touch. Don't bother trying to remove the electrical connection until the sensor is out - you simply can't get to it. Inlet manifold has to come off, cable tie remaining pipes out the way, then use a very long (150mm) Hex bit (5mm) to feel for the single bolt holding the sensor in. Put a towel of something under the crankcase incase you drop the bolt. Once the single bolt is out, then pull on the sensor and it will come out very easily. Ensure you also pull out the O ring - it will likely still be in the crankcase. Pull out the electrical connector by squeezing the sides (gently) now you have room to do so. Lubricate the new connector and I inserted the O ring onto the new connector. Don't forget to re-fit the electrical connection before fitting . To avoid dropping the bolt on re-fitting, I superglued the bolt onto the end of the long Hex. Once 'snug' , work the sensor in so the O ring seats properly, half a turn, snug it a bit more, etc - once fully seated and torqued to spec, a bend on the bit will just snap the glue, allowing you to remove the bit. As said above, this is all blind, so I checked with an endoscope before putting back together to ensure the O ring had seated properly. Option B is to remove the starter motor - which will allow you much better access and you can see what you are doing
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