N62 4.8is thermostat swap from 105 to 90c problem

[EODguy]

I would think that this part below would give you the idea of using the old wire to provide the signal or data it's is expecting, therefore negating the need for coding.

"Does your new lower temp thermostat still have an electrical connection? If it doesn't then there is how you can fix it by providing the circuit with whatever data it's expecting."

I honestly figured you'd understand what I said but no worries. You may want to sit this out in a neutral fashion, like WW2....


Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

[bmwktm]

New thermostat has connector as old one and it is providing the signal that is it supposed to do. Everything is working as it should. The only difference is, there is charged cylinder with the wax which is reacting at 90 instead of 105 degrees. So the coding is needed since i am not allowed to put any resistors (they would fail me, really strict here).


Also with the wire to provide "whatever data it's expecting"... Also just heard/read somewhere and just repeating and it is not helping since there is no explanation which magic should be used to provide the data and figure out what that data would be.

Trying to help, writing nonsense and pumping up personal ego with number of posts and payed membership is completely different than actually helping with useful answer. EODguy has no idea what is the purpose of the cap and in which situation is activated but still trying to force his HELP with some illogical logic.
Tstat (actually CAP, sorry my bad writing Tstat here) has absolutely nothing to do with operating pressure or temperature. It is activated only if there is a problem with the engine which will cause over pressurizing and it acts as a security valve (like a fuse in electric circuit).


My question has nothing to do with over pressurizing but with normal conditions. With Tstat I just lowered operating pressure by lowering temperature.
And after all that he continues talking about the cap because he heard someone talking about it and is close enough to him so "lets pump up those post numbers so i can feel better" instead trying to actually understand how things work.

He has 4 posts on this page and 0% of words were useful to a question "how to reprogram Tstat temp". So him having 1000 posts means nothing if the quality is on this level. Thinking that being an old member, payed member, or a member with 1000 posts makes you a better debugger/mechanic is just sad.
And comment about Switzerland in WWII... hehe how about morbidly obese people, faked up health care system (poor people just die), overpriced education system putting kids in debt even before starting their lives, school shootings... just dont...


If I ever find a solution how to reprogram it, I will post it here for people reaching this trough Google.

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by bmwktm

New thermostat has connector as old one and it is providing the signal that is it supposed to do. Everything is working as it should. The only difference is, there is charged cylinder with the wax which is reacting at 90 instead of 105 degrees. So the coding is needed since i am not allowed to put any resistors (they would fail me, really strict here).



Tstat has absolutely nothing to do with operating pressure or temperature. It is activated only if there is a problem with the engine which will cause over pressurizing and it acts as a security valve (like a fuse in electric circuit).

1st.... They are so strict in the inspection process that they would notice a resistor and fail you but not fail you for an aftermarket modification... uhmm, ok

2nd.... I said that the cap pressure at 2 bar is what causes wear and tear not the temp and by the way the thermostat has absolutely everything to do with operating temperature and the electrical circuit on it will close and open it even at operating temps to improve fuel efficiency and control emissions to a higher standard.

Last but not least I understand that English is not your primary language but I was impressed that you came out of the gate with the "I can't believe no one is answering my question" (insert foot stomping here) and then somehow figured out how to use a font to impart an eyeroll and European snobbery at the same time while needing help. (bravo)

The reason no one is answering is probably due to that or it could just be that they believe you have a soft fail with your thermostat and are hoping you will do more troubleshooting than whining.

I guess I'm not getting chocolate for Christmas but I wouldn't want to pay for it in gold either...

(Too soon?)

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

[bmwktm]

Man you should treat what ever you are having because it is making you more and more retarded with every post you make.

[wpoll]

Not going to get in the middle of this but I have to say, assuming the N62 thermostat is like any other "old school" thermostat isn't quite right... read this before commenting.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/Xw3xhPS

For those of you that subscribe to the school of "TLDNR" - this is the critical bit...

"The principle mechanical design of the characteristic map thermostat corresponds to that of a conventional thermostat. However, a heating element is additionally integrated in the expansion element (wax element)."

[Overboost]

I'm with CW and have never heard of anyone breaking the code on the DME and calibrating that value to send the signal to the thermostat from 113C to 90C on the N62.

I have recalibrated my temperature gauge hex code to read actual values so if you are running around with a 40C buffer in your gauge to show 75C to 115C as high noon on your gauge, you really don't know what your temperatures actually are without some sort of scanner plugged in or running the hidden menu displaying the coolant temperature. My buffer is 10C but mine is a M54, you may need to adjust yours accordingly.

Nice to see you making friends on here. You can take your comment about morbidly obese people in America and shove it right up your röv