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#131
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When you get the engine back together I think it would be interesting to see your compression numbers. Fingers crossed everything checks out. |
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#132
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Quote:
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#133
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I think he told us. "re time" implies was done before. I think it was just a previous repair job so it wasn’t considered to be integral to the new problem. Eg the timing chain was worked on last summer and The engine ran fine until the transmission work was done and then coincidentally after the transmission work was done and the bolt for the cam got loose and everything went to hell. just a guess
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#134
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Ok, I guess I have to admit it. I have the BMW version of 'Munchausen syndrome by proxy'. Oh, the amount of damage I did to the car to have attention from several dealers and mechanics. It never stops, I always find something to break to ask questions on these forums as well..
Well, no. I do not have that of course. You can see the story here : https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...sion-work.html I think we broke the timing as we were trying to install the TC bolts and tried to turn the crank with a lot of resistance when the TC bolts were not fully in. The engine was never timed by me before. I had some bent valves long time ago. I am guessing it was done then.. Anyway, I got the timing tools and ready to start the timing next week. Cheers, Ozzie
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X5 4.4 01 |
#135
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Send me a text I might be up for helping
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#136
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I will for sure. Do you think those cam locking metal blocks can handle the high torque to loosen / tighten the cam bolts or should I apply opposite force with 27mm wrench each time to make sure nothing breaks? Cheers, Ozzie
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X5 4.4 01 |
#137
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No start after transmission repairs..
Absolutely need to counter torque. You can use the lock blocks for the reluctor wheel. I used a wrench we cut down a bit to fit in nicely.
Also; not need for this job but the crank locking pin will not hold to remove crank bolt. Back to cam bolts: hit with hammer to break the bond beofee loosen they get welded together it takes like 200 ft·lb to release and can break parts.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#138
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Agreed. The cam locking tools are not intended to hold the cams while torquing the cam bolts. They are only intended to locate the cams and cam gears. And open end wrench will be necessary to hold the cams while torquing the the bolts.
I also agree that the little flywheel locking pin is no good for tightening or loosening the crank bolt. You need to buy the correct tool for that and also a gigantic breaker bar.
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2000 E53 M62 |
#139
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I built the crank holding tool from angle iron but I wonder if can rent from auto parts store. The second one I did the radiator wasn't in the car I just used my impact wrench knocked it loose in a few seconds.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#140
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Thanks, interestingly I had to cut a 27 mm wrench slightly as well because it was not fitting in there as I was rotating the Bank 1 camshafts.
Also, do you trust the multimeter test for the timing? When I did the test yesterday, I did not get any continuity which made me believe I had to retard the vanos but I am also reading many people do not trust that test. I am asking because I am trying to avoid loosening the intake side but if the timing is not right, I will have to.. Cheers, Ozzie
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X5 4.4 01 |
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