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  #1  
Old 07-08-2020, 12:19 PM
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60K miles 4.8is suspension refresh

My 4.8is has just hit the 60K mark. Reading through posts here it seems like given the car's weight and that of the silly 20" wheels combined with 15 years of ageing of the rubber bushes at least a partial front suspension refresh might be in order. In general things seem pretty rattle and clunk free; the only thing I notice is a clunk under sharp low speed braking. This might sound strange but it reminds me of a bicycle with a loose headset.


What isn't exactly clear to me is what are the high wear parts on teh front suspension. There's what BMW calls a tension arm at the front of each front wheel's suspension assembly which has a bushing at one end and an eye for a ball joint at the other end, the aforementioned ball joint and then what BMW calls a wishbone (strange to call in a wishbone when it's not even vaguely wishbone shaped) towards the back with a bushing at one end and a ball joint at the other. Should I just replace the lot and be done with it? Not keen on pressing new bushes in and out; I don't want the down time on the car and don't have ready access to a press.


And should I be looking at anything at the back of the car at the same time?


Advice and comments gratefully received.
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  #2  
Old 07-08-2020, 12:33 PM
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With your suspension all the way up drive slow over a speed bump.

Do you get a thunk sound as the suspension compresses or comes off the speed bump? If so you have this... control arm bushings (short and long) it also can cause a shake in the steering wheel at 100kph to 110kph in my case. Also will need to do tie rods/ball joints.

I say this solely assuming you don't know how it was previously driven and maintained.

I'm getting close to 250k km on my 2005 4.8iS on shit roads with the occasional open manhole...

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Old 07-08-2020, 02:46 PM
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On the 4.8is monsters, front suspension torsion arms (the big ones with the curve and the HUGE bushing in one end) as last approx 48-60K depending on driver's road manners.
On my own, I have replaced everything front and rear as the boots cracked and everything is easy to replace at one time.
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Old 07-08-2020, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titan silber View Post
... In general things seem pretty rattle and clunk free; the only thing I notice is a clunk under sharp low speed braking. This might sound strange but it reminds me of a bicycle with a loose headset.

What isn't exactly clear to me is what are the high wear parts on teh front suspension. There's what BMW calls a tension arm at the front of each front wheel's suspension assembly which has a bushing at one end and an eye for a ball joint at the other end …
As EODGuy mentioned, Tension (aka control) arm bushes need replacing - the clunk you get when you dab the brakes at low speed is the typical symptom.

I replaced the bushes (using Meyle HD)…



In some parts of the world, it's easier/cheaper to replace the whole arm...

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Old 07-08-2020, 04:23 PM
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more details and images

You have been discussing #6 in the FRONT suspension images
Attached Images
     
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2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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Old 07-14-2020, 09:15 AM
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Thanks for all the replies. The only symptom I notice is the clunk under light sharp braking; there don't seem to be any undue noises when going over sleeping policemen (UK term for speed bumps!) or cobbled rubble strips or the like.


Tire wear (Dunlop runflats) is OK at the front with light feathering of the inner and outer edges on both. Rear tires are knackered; left rear has cords showing on the inside edge. Will ditch the runflats and hope the ride improves. Any recommendations on 20" tires?


I went under the beastie and freed up the tie rods in the front and the camber and toe eccentrics in the back in preparation for a 4 wheel alignment. I'd like to reduce the rear camber to the low end of the range in the hopes of getting better tire life.


Will replace the front tension arms; it's quite easy to significantly deflect the arm by hand.
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Old 07-14-2020, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
On my own, I have replaced everything front and rear as the boots cracked and everything is easy to replace at one time.

This is my normal approach to suspensions on all the used cars I've purchased. Replace everything. As you say, much easier to replace it all at once. And I like the fact you're back to zero knowing you don't have to worry about it for quite some time.
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Old 07-14-2020, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by absolutezero273c View Post
This is my normal approach to suspensions on all the used cars I've purchased. Replace everything. As you say, much easier to replace it all at once. And I like the fact you're back to zero knowing you don't have to worry about it for quite some time.
Seconded. Much rather order everything once every 80k - 100k miles and spend a weekend on it than try to diagnose a specific failure in the chain. Even when you do find it the next bushing/ball joint is sure to follow suit shortly thereafter.
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Old 07-14-2020, 10:29 PM
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Tires: Continental DWS 06 are holding up very well for me.

Michelin now makes a Pilot Sport 4 in the correct size, which were not available when i bought the Conti’s, both are all season.


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  #10  
Old 07-22-2020, 05:43 PM
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Thanks for the pointer to replace the tension arms or at least the bushes. It was easier for me to replace the arms. Here's what the bushes looked like:

Note the distorted BMW logo, the tears and the 2005 date code.


Clunk under low speed braking is gone, the steering feels more direct and the car doesn't feel like it's wandering as much as it used to. So 90 minutes and £110/$140 well spent. Curious if the front camber is reduced as a result; it's at about 1 degree whereas it should be more like 0.2 degrees.


Now onto the rear suspension to solve the extreme camber...
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