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  #11  
Old 07-11-2020, 11:31 AM
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That makes sense, hmm, I know my local auto parts store rents tools, maybe PS can barrow a through hole since this is probably a once in a lifetime change.


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  #12  
Old 07-12-2020, 01:22 AM
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You only need one medium 3/4" socket but the through hole socket set is so useful I keep it under my driver's seat So it's always with me.

One of the coincidental things is it's super low profile. Since the socket actuality fits into a hole in the ratchet, the suckers are much shorter and fit into impossible places like the back of the power steering pump on M62. No normal socket fits nor ratcheting wrench either because you need SOME offset just not a normal socket worth
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  #13  
Old 07-12-2020, 01:34 AM
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Thanks AW! You just sold me on buying myself a pass though the next time I'm at Home Depot


EDIT: I am going to get a full set of sockets, both standard and metric though (not just the 3/4)
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  #14  
Old 07-12-2020, 02:00 AM
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Cylinder head oil check valve

Crescent 20 Pc. 3/8" Drive Pass-Thru X6 Standard Spline Mechanics Tool Set - CX6PT20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L8GEPM..._WAQcFbEVJPN8Z

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Old 07-11-2021, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Oh: the sound you described doesn't sound like what you think it is. It sounds like your chain tensioner is shot.

If my engine did what you just described I would park the car and order an OEM chain tensioner and replace before I turn the key again.
Just realized I never followed up on this thread. I changed the tensioner with OEM. What a pain.

Fired it up and gave it a few moments for the tensioner to fill with oil and then restarted. Still rattled. Let it cool off a bit and grabbed my stethoscope. Listened on restart it the noise was not coming from timing chain but from valves. Talked to my indy and he had me do 3 hot oil changes after driving with Seafoam in my crankcase for about 50 miles. Did the first change and drive 100 miles and immediately did hot oil change to cheap 5w30...and I was shocked how much gunk came out (as Im religious on oil maintenance). Drove 50 miles and did another hot change....then another drive and a final change back to full synthetic 5w30.

It appears I was able to get whatever gunk was holding the ball bearing open in the check valve as the rattle is now gone. My indy also said that the o-ring can start to degrade and allow the oil to drain out of the head and cause the same rattle.

The next time we are doing any top end work, I will have the entire valve changed while I have it torn down.
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Old 07-11-2021, 04:52 PM
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That's some solid feedback.
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