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  #21  
Old 07-16-2020, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I wrote a PARTIAL Cooling Overhaul at 110K miles.
At 180K miles, you need a complete overhaul.

You have a classic expansion tank crack.

Here is the PARTIAL list:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...16k-miles.html

At your mileage of 180K, add Fan Clutch (Sachs only) and rad (Nissens is fine).

Re parts: brand-name matters, many mechanics simply get parts from PepBoys etc. a big No bc of many Chinese parts.

Best is to hold off, buy the quality parts (made in Germany etc.) and get the proper mechanic to do it.

My cousin owns a BMW indy shop in L.A. area if you are close by.
Don't drive the car overheated!!!

Southbay Independent
18020 S.Vermont
Gardena, CA
Phone: 310-532-3145
Thank you for that information. I'm the second owner of the BMW, the 1st owner had it for 18+ years and is from Gardena!
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  #22  
Old 07-16-2020, 03:50 PM
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+1 on OEM parts for cooling system. Fcpeuro.com no need to get BMW brand but they will sell the equivalent
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  #23  
Old 07-16-2020, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Not for the short amount of time it will be in there. Tap water has minerals that will cook onto engine parts. The alkaline coolant will neutralize the acidic water and the coolant will be replaced with the new parts
Whew, relief!
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  #24  
Old 07-16-2020, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
+1 on OEM parts for cooling system. Fcpeuro.com no need to get BMW brand but they will sell the equivalent
Definitely going to tell the indy shop about wanting OEM or near OEM, thank you!
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Old 07-16-2020, 03:55 PM
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Coolant Leak E53 3.0i X5 $7,400 to fix? Pics inside, please help

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Originally Posted by lisantica View Post
Whew, relief!


No need to use coolant until repairs at $15/g just get a couple gallons of distilled water for $1-2/gal. Keep it topped off as it leaks. (letting engine cool off before opening to fill).

FYI: wife and I both own 2002 3.0i and have about 185-190,000 miles. Worth keeping. I won't be happy unless I get 256,000 from mine.
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  #26  
Old 07-16-2020, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
No need to use coolant until repairs at $15/g just get a couple gallons of distilled water for $1-2/gal. Keep it topped off as it leaks. (letting engine cool off before opening to fill).
Dealer got me for $38.68 for one gallon of coolant.
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  #27  
Old 07-16-2020, 04:01 PM
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FYI: wife and I both own 2002 3.0i and have about 185-190,000 miles. Worth keeping. I won't be happy unless I get 256,000 from mine.
I have been shopping for a new SUV or Truck and I can't find anything I like better than my BMW. I wouldn't mind making a payment, but like I said I can't find anything that feels as good as my 2001, even tried a new X5. I hope to get at least 250,000 from mine.
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Old 07-16-2020, 04:05 PM
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Smurf blood is pricy. I fill with universal prestone so I can buy it anywhere. I used to get the euro blue but it's hard to find at times especially hard to find not premixed.

I don't veto using blue blood but I recommend the green universal mix your own full strength it's about half price and for under $20 you can fill 8-10qt.
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  #29  
Old 07-16-2020, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Smurf blood is pricy. I fill with universal prestone so I can buy it anywhere. I used to get the euro blue but it's hard to find at times especially hard to find not premixed.

I don't veto using blue blood but I recommend the green universal mix your own full strength it's about half price and for under $20 you can fill 8-10qt.
True, this isn't premixed.
I really like OEM fluids when possible. My 2004 Sprinter is really fussy about having OEM fluids, so I just got in the habit of making sure I use them.
Decent diesel mileage too, but long at 22 feet:


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Last edited by lisantica; 07-16-2020 at 04:15 PM.
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  #30  
Old 07-16-2020, 04:33 PM
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Use a g-35 if you can’t find the BMW coolant which is actually G-48. They are phosphate and nitrite free, low silica. Use distilled water to not introduce minerals.
Regular coolant will “work” but it is the long term effects on the system. You may never see an issue, but it’s cheap for how often you need it.
The seep at the cooler, if it is only a slight seep, just keep the expansion tank at the right level when cold. NEVER OVER FILL or you will typically cause a crack / leak somewhere, especially with an older system.
A lot of good mechanics wont charge labor for replacing items they take off if they are going to any way. Like replacing fan clutch, hoses, tank and coolant when replacing the water pump. Just the cost of the parts since they are coming off anyway.
CN90’S write up is on point.
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