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#21
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1988 325is (purchased new) sold 2004 X5 3.0 2005 X3 2.5 2008 X5 3.0 (new to me) |
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#22
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
#23
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Quote:
I got two of these: https://www.amazon.com/UNI-T-UT210E-.../dp/B075ZHDQFP a year or two ago, ended up shipping the second one to my dad when he needed it. I probably paid half the Amazon price since I got them from chinaBay, waiting a couple of months for delivery, not being in a rush. That UT210E (note they make A B C ... models which are different and may not be what you want) is really good. Almost milliAmp stability (true accuracy is unknown of course) for low current DC measurements, which is reassuring. However, not absolutely needed to detect parasitic draw since you're mainly looking for an on-off sort of thing, and don't care if it's 230 mA or 228, when it should be much lower.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
#24
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Quote:
Pretty cool though - running an extra little wire to keep things connected while the terminal is lifted off the battery post. I can see how that would make it reliable, and you can then put the meter in parallel with the little wire, then disconnect the wire, making it a smooth handoff. But really, I can understand doing all this if it were 1820 and electromagnetism was not yet understood. But these days, with that being taught in middle schools, and decent $30 clamp meters available, I don't know why they use that procedure in their dealerships. The PDF is 4 pages long, and definitely more complicated that using a clamp ammeter. I tried to upload the PDF, but this site wants to waste a lot of my time while trying and failing, so I found this link to it: https://www.subaruforester.org/attac...14-pdf.522942/
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 Last edited by oldskewel; 08-18-2020 at 01:55 PM. |
#25
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Starting to feel like an overload of intormation lol!
I got the tool, hopefully won't blow any fuses this time! Do i need to do anything with this red big clamp or do I just use the probes as on the multimeter? |
#26
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Leave the probes in the box, and you will not be able to blow any fuses even if you wanted to. Really. That was fast. Good luck.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
#27
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#28
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Nearly there...
The two ends of the "clamp" meter must be closed. You don't actually clamp the cable being tested - the cable being tested must be entirely within the red "loop", which must be closed. Your first image is correct - the one that is reading 2.6A. Normally, you only measure one wire at at time, but in this case, both wires have current running in the same direction, so it works. Just put the clamp around the negative wire and leave it there for all your tests.
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
#29
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As said in post #16, "When you just turn it on, it may default to AC current measurement, so be sure to set it to DC. At that point, it will be giving you a reading based on the ambient magnetic field wherever the clamp is. You should move it to the vicinity of the wire you will measure, and zero the reading, and then clamp around the wire. That way, you will be estimating a current based on the magnetic field generated by the current flowing in the wire you are measuring, and not based on any other stray magnetic fields from other wires."
So to slow it down ... leave the cables in the box turn it on set it into DC Clamp current measuring mode, however you do that on that meter move the clamp part of the meter in the vicinity (within a few inches) of the wire you want to measure. hit the zero button then open the clamp and clamp it around the wire you want to measure the meter should be measuring DC current through that wire ---- have you done that and things are not working?
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
#30
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Thanks for your help guys, it seems to be working.
To switch between DC and AC is the button "select". I don't see any button for zero. But looks like after I clamp around the wires, it settles at around 1.3 AMP. So thats like 26 times more than a normal draw should be? I'll try waiting 20 minutes after opening the door to have the car go so sleep. Then if it's still high, I just start popping fuses to see when AMPS will drop? |
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