Ticking noise caused by worn valve tips?.

[turquise1]

Originally Posted by tartilla

A head that is in spec, with clear galleries should be ok.

I bought 2 heads of ebay 12 years ago...for $200. Buddy didn't want to ship them. Had to make a claim. They eventually came.

But I would not hesitate to use a used head. New lifters are not a bad idea, certainly with your short spring issue. How is the break in with the new lifters on the old Cam?

Modern oils don't really account for non-roller cams as they once did. Is the cam lobe getting wiped out an issue on the M62?

I have been looking at other threads as well. This one mentions the check valve between block and cylinder head clogging causing the issue..

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...g-bank1-6.html


Thanks,


Ozzie

[tartilla]

That threat turquise1 posted, is a classic issue from overly complicated machinery.

$12 check valve.

On that note, the double Vanos phases both cams, bug can it change the lobe separation angle?

[turquise1]

Update :

After all the repairs (replacement of valve seals, cleanup of oil passages inside cylinder head, cleaning inside the combustion chamber) and putting the new lifters in, there is still the same ticking. There are no related errors and engine seems to work nicely.

So, what are the chances of the ticking caused by a leaking exhaust manifold? I have been reading the ticking is very similar to lifter tick in too many cases and when I looked in there with the camera, I saw some carbonized spots around where the manifold connects to engine. After listening using a stethoscope the ticking is very loud there but it's hard to tell because the noise seems to travel everywhere on metal..

How can I test to see if there is a leak there?

Thanks,

Ozzie

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by turquise1

Update :

After all the repairs (replacement of valve seals, cleanup of oil passages inside cylinder head, cleaning inside the combustion chamber) and putting the new lifters in, there is still the same ticking. There are no related errors and engine seems to work nicely.

So, what are the chances of the ticking caused by a leaking exhaust manifold? I have been reading the ticking is very similar to lifter tick in too many cases and when I looked in there with the camera, I saw some carbonized spots around where the manifold connects to engine. After listening using a stethoscope the ticking is very loud there but it's hard to tell because the noise seems to travel everywhere on metal..

How can I test to see if there is a leak there?

Thanks,

Ozzie

Shade tree mechanic trick...

Use a dowel rod or cutoff broomstick and touch one end to each part of a running engine while pressing your ear to the other.

If it's a leaking exhaust manifold you'll hear it just like you would a lifter tick

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[turquise1]

Originally Posted by EODguy

Shade tree mechanic trick...

Use a dowel rod or cutoff broomstick and touch one end to each part of a running engine while pressing your ear to the other.

If it's a leaking exhaust manifold you'll hear it just like you would a lifter tick

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Would this be more accurate than using a mechanic's stethoscope? Using the stethoscope I hear the ticking everywhere although I thought it was the strongest when I touched the bottom of the manifold.

I am planning a smoke test using a DIY smoke machine (a lot of info online) and see what happens..

Thanks,

Ozzie

[EODguy]

In some instances it's more accurate since it doesn't pick up as much noise that's not "close" to the inspection point.

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[Purplefade]

Originally Posted by EODguy

In some instances it's more accurate since it doesn't pick up as much noise that's not "close" to the inspection point.

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Agree with EOD, stethoscope can be overly sensitive in some cases. I have also been known to snap together a couple / few long metal extensions and literally poke around with those using the “socket” end with my ear on the “ratchet” end, I find the metal object sometimes transfers better / more sound.


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[turquise1]

Update :

From what I can hear, the ticking (at least most of it) comes from the driver's side exhaust manifold. I looked in there with a borescope and there is definitely some carbonized areas around the connections.

So, I guess the new project begins. There is almost no space to take out the manifold. I can reach some of the bolts in front but the rear ones are almost impossible to reach. Andrew made a recommendation to use a special tool (https://www.harborfreight.com/t-bar-...het-98484.html) and I will try that from top and bottom. Other than that I am reading people loosen the motor mount and raise that side of it slightly to reach the bolts.

Any other ideas or a DIY?

Thanks,

Ozzie

[andrewwynn]

Seek a YouTube video. Somebody has one I'm sure

[turquise1]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Seek a YouTube video. Somebody has one I'm sure

You should have taken photos of your work. I am still not sure how you managed it. I can only reach half of the bolts from the top and I could not see the back ones from the bottom (yet)

Thanks,

Ozzie