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  #171  
Old 09-19-2021, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kspark View Post
Wow, that's incredible. Sadly it looks like the N62 is fully discontinued, but sure enough there are brand new M62's available to buy.
Sounds like a backwards swap is in order!

For those running bigger tires and wheels than stock, and lifts too if present, I’d be interested to hear about your fuel mileage experiences. I’ve been getting about 13.5 mpg around town here in New Orleans. It’s been several years, but I seem to recall getting around 15 mpg around town on the OEM 18” set up that came on the car. It does have 150k on it, but I’m not sure that matters with fuel economy?

I was planning on jumping into my wiring harness for the stereo upgrade later this week, but my wife’s 2015 Grand Cherokee (80k) decided to develop transfer case issues yesterday. When shifting between P, D, and R a distinct and rattle or knocking is heard from the T-case. It continues at low speed until, I think, lockup happens. I unplugged the electric motor on the transfer case and the noise disappeared. Next step I guess is to remove the motor but leave it plugged in and see what happens. Fingers are crossed that it is only the electric motor.
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Current
2002 E53 X5 4.4i - original owner
2021 E53 X5 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro

Last edited by Henn28; 09-19-2021 at 11:10 AM.
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  #172  
Old 09-22-2021, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henn28 View Post
Sounds like a backwards swap is in order!

For those running bigger tires and wheels than stock, and lifts too if present, Iíd be interested to hear about your fuel mileage experiences. Iíve been getting about 13.5 mpg around town here in New Orleans. Itís been several years, but I seem to recall getting around 15 mpg around town on the OEM 18Ē set up that came on the car. It does have 150k on it, but Iím not sure that matters with fuel economy?

I was planning on jumping into my wiring harness for the stereo upgrade later this week, but my wifeís 2015 Grand Cherokee (80k) decided to develop transfer case issues yesterday. When shifting between P, D, and R a distinct and rattle or knocking is heard from the T-case. It continues at low speed until, I think, lockup happens. I unplugged the electric motor on the transfer case and the noise disappeared. Next step I guess is to remove the motor but leave it plugged in and see what happens. Fingers are crossed that it is only the electric motor.
I get about 1 MPG less with the Falken Wildpeaks on (17.0 MPG mostly highway vs 18.0 on all-seasons).

Surprisingly, refreshing the suspension improved fuel economy quite a bit.
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  #173  
Old 10-08-2021, 02:50 PM
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Had a couple hours today so I headed to the garage to install knock sensors and the valley plumbing.

The knock sensors are new but the rear x-manifold and pipes are eBay pieces. I Got some good lessons learned from an E39 guy who built up a new 4.6 motor to swap into his car and used Permatex #85420 on the manifold and block (either side of the gaskets). The manifold cleaned up nicely but it is used so the permatex canít hurt I think. A liberal amount of mechanics grease on the o-rings helped the pipes pop in and should help with the seal. Iím hopeful I donít regret buying used parts, I plan on pressure testing the system after I get the motor in and before putting the intake on.

I wasnít sure what torque to put on the M6 w/washer manifold bolts as I couldnít find this info anywhere, so I went with 15 to 20 NM as this is close to the torque put on similar gasketted/sealed pieces that attach to the block. It wasnít an exact science as I have a very nice but way too large for this job electronic torque wrench, and a very old beam type I use for low torque values. I need to bite the bullet and get a quality torque Wrench for low values.

Up next when I have time will be installing an alternator, a power steering pump, oil hoses to block flange and dip-stick tube. Then Iíll put the pulleys and drives on, including the balancer, and it will finally be time to pull the 4.4 out of my X5. Once itís out Iíll rob the flywheel, starter and right front axle carrier and install them on the 4.6. Iíll get all new hoses, CCV crap and rubber parts on that I can at this point, either in the engine bay or on the motor.

Iím hoping to leave the front diff and left axle in the car and just bolt it back up with new gaskets/o-rings when I put the new motor in. Iím not sure though that there is enough play in it to work the right axle free of the diff so it can come out with the motor. Otherwise Iíll pull it out too and swap it to the 4.6 on the stand. Pulling axles can be a pita, so Iím looking to minimize brain damage.

An update on the oil flange bolts that realOEM doesnít think exist: I tried a few bolt sizes today and they are definitely M8 and the hole in the block is 25 mm deep. When the flange arrives Iíll measure it and order something that will work. Probably M8x25 or maybe even 30 with washers or flanges, depending on the oil flange depth and shape.
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Current
2002 E53 X5 4.4i - original owner
2021 E53 X5 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro

Last edited by Henn28; 10-08-2021 at 03:30 PM.
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  #174  
Old 10-19-2021, 12:48 PM
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I bought these new style 75 two-piece BBS 19'' for our X5 to do a build, but ended up selling the car. We bought a newer X5 instead.

Will accept any reasonable offer need these gone!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...1970402433204/
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  #175  
Old 11-10-2021, 10:04 AM
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Slow going on my build lately, but I installed a Bosch rebuilt alternator yesterday on my 4.6 motor. 10 minute job with new bolts, bit of dielectric grease around the pre-installed water jacket seal and a drop of blue threadlocker on the M6 bolts. I couldn't find a torque value anywhere for those bolts, which seemed odd, so I turned them to about 15 or 20nm with my crappy torque wrench.

Backorder parts and long shipping times are really slowing me down on my engine build. I have some time off in early December that I'm planning on doing the engine swap during, assuming the rest of my parts come in.

I did get a huge box of hoses in, but I'm waiting on a dipstick tube, one hydraulic belt tensioner (the AC came fully assembled, including the bracket, but no tensioner or bracket on my "refresh" kit on the water pump side), a second CCV valve (first was broken from ECS/Turner) and a bunch of bolts and a ton of misc fasteners. I'm still trying to decide if I want to spring for a "new" LUK steering pump, or try to find somewhere to rebuild the pump from the 4.4. I also did receive the ebay secondary air pump tube (to the heads) and gave it to the fabricator who will make blank-off plates from it.

Since I'm in a holding pattern for parts I decided to fully build the long runner intake I bought on ebay. I cleaned and painted (flat black) the intake and ordered a used fuel rail complete with injectors from an ebay seller I've been using. It will be drop shipped to Injector RX in Houston who will clean and test the injectors, and fully clean the rail so I can paint or powder coat it flat black too. I expect to have to buy an injector or two, but hopefully the majority of them will be good and I can save $60+/ each.

I bought some black stainless nuts and bolts to mount the rail and intake as my goal is to leave the cover off the motor. The secondary air pump delete and perhaps some re-routing of other vacuum lines should make for a nice clean look with the flat black intake and rail.
__________________
Current
2002 E53 X5 4.4i - original owner
2021 E53 X5 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro
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  #176  
Old 11-27-2021, 04:48 PM
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Intake

Had some spare time today to assemble the intake for the 4.6. Its a mostly Ebay sourced assembly:
- Long runner intake
- used fuel rail and injectors that I had cleaned and flow tested by InjectorRX in Houston (surprisingly all 8 cleaned up to within factory flow specs)
- New throttle flange and CCV valve
- New gaskets and o-rings
- swapped in hex bolts for the OEM torx
- new black stainless fuel rail bolts and washers

I'm looking to leave the engine cover off so I primed and painted everything major a flat black. If it doesn't hold up then I'll take the rail from my 4.4 that is coming out and have it powder coated flat black. I am also going to hit the hex bolts with some flat black before I install it.

My plan is to install the new motor without the intake so I can pressure test the coolant system.

In other news, I finally got myself squared away with inpa. I had read enough forum posts about how challenging it was to set up, keep running, etc. that I was nervous that an IT rock like me would goon it up. However my homemade rear air spring brackets could only get me ďsoĒ close in equally accounting for my roughly 2Ē lift. Mikeís easy Bmw tools was just that, so easy a caveman like me could do it. After the install, one K DCAN cable later and I was in business. Shockingly easy.

I ended up using the timed suspension adjust function to tweak the rear air springs successfully and both level the car laterally and find a good rear ride height. Next up for the suspension will be Range Rover L322 front spring conversion struts so I can actually gain about 2Ē suspension travel a do away with the spacer lifts.
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__________________
Current
2002 E53 X5 4.4i - original owner
2021 E53 X5 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro

Last edited by Henn28; 11-27-2021 at 08:00 PM.
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  #177  
Old 12-02-2021, 06:52 PM
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Progress

The motor is very close to being ready to swap. It's taken too long, but work, etc. intrudes occasionally. Earlier this week I went to the garage with the intention of adding the final few pieces to the new 4.6, short of the few I'm going to rob from my 4.4. I had been waiting for some odd sized fasteners to come in for the AC pulley assembly and the stud for the power steering pump.


These pieces went on and I turned my attention to torquing down the harmonic balancer which I had finger tightened a couple weeks ago. Unfortunately under the light I noticed that the balancer had a small crack in it. Quite the drag since i will now need to wait a week or so for a replacement piece to come from Germany. I will say getbmwparts.com ordered me a new one no questions asked, despite the fact that i had pitched the box a couple weeks ago.
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__________________
Current
2002 E53 X5 4.4i - original owner
2021 E53 X5 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro
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  #178  
Old 12-02-2021, 07:04 PM
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Starting to look like a motor

A rebuilt power steering pump, intake, rail with injectors, and new everything else. I will end up robbing the oil separator return line, ac compressor bracket, flywheel/flexplate, throttle and coils from my 4.4. I'm not sure if i need the small deflection pulley under the alternator, but I'll rob the bracket if so. I ordered a new pulley just in case my car has it. I can't tell from real oem.

The secondary air pump line is just stuck on so it doesn't get lost. It will be chopped at each end, leaving just enough to weld it shut, and each piece reattached to the heads with new orings. The pump and associated vacuum mess will be deleted physically and from the DME.
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__________________
Current
2002 E53 X5 4.4i - original owner
2021 E53 X5 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro

Last edited by Henn28; 12-02-2021 at 07:10 PM.
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  #179  
Old 12-09-2021, 05:01 PM
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Swap Time

Its swap time . Monday was a half day devoted to gettign the car positioned, draining fluids, organizing parts, tools, etc. and basic prep. I pulled the cowl, drained the fluids (other then the front diff), labeled and detached lots of plugs and vacuum tubes, pulled the intake track entirely, pulled the splash guard and other subframe covers and dropped the middle exhaust section (headers back). Things went smoothly other than one of the copper header nuts decided to strip. 45 min of surgery with a sawsall paid off and I was able to pound the stud back through/pry off the nut remnants.

Lots of broken and/or very fragile vacuum tubes to sort out and the need for a giant hex bit (22 mm maybe?) to pull the front diff drain plug were my lessons learned for today. (Update...17mm if I recall. I bought a set of huge hex drivers from Northern Tool...less than a pint of oil came out.) Tons of oil all over the bottom end. I suspect the oil pan covers and the rear main for starters. I also think the front diff is leaking from the casing but canít find a gasket on realoem for it. Anyone done this work?

Four days of prep total and it's finally ready to go...aside from having to pull the axles still. The past two days have been spent finishing the breakdown of the oil soaked and tired 4.4. Today I had time while I wait for an open bay at the garage, I'm a member of (on the lift currently) to start swapping parts, brackets, etc. to the new motor, after a good cleaning. I've never seen a dirtier motor in my life ... layers of oil gook measured in MM in places. The stiffener plate hides all manners of evil. Out of sight out of mind I suppose. Now that I've done it once I think I could do the prep in two long days.

I'll reposition it tomorrow into a spot where I can put it on jack stands which will allow me to pull the axels and then the motor. Short story is that the lift is shared so I decided to use the time I had breaking the 4.4 down completely and pull it out of the top minus the transmission on jackstands, when the lift was needed by other members. Its ready to go, including unbolting the flywheel from the torque converter and pulling the wiring harness, starter, every hose and fluid line, etc. With the cowl out there is a lot of room behind the motor and I think I can even get a wrench on the top transmission torx bolts. I can see them anyway!

My plan is to try to pull the axles, bearing carriers and diff/left axle support as single units since they are just going to get bolted on to the new motor. No sense asking for trouble by pulling the axles out of the hubs and the carrier and diff if I don't need to. Fingers crossed.

I also changed both Giubos while I was under the car and had to order a few hundred bucks worth of parts that were presented trashed after pulling them out. Most notably were bare wires on the camshaft sensors, lots of vacuum tubing and a fuel tank breather valve that looked fine but the car was throwing a code for it and everything associated with the vacuum plumbing for the brakes. The valve and hoses fell apart basically when I looked at them.

My effort to beautify the M62 can only go so far. I'm deleting the SAP and associated crap, and I painted the intake and rail flat black, but the boxes for the wiring harness are butt-ugly and I'm not smart enough, nor do I have enough time to do anything about them. I've seen some very cool pics of other guys efforts in this respect, so perhaps I'll sort this out when I build a "M60B44" from my old motor.

I've got what I hope to be my final parts (for the motor anyway) in route, but the long pole is the harmonic balancer. I don't really want to drop the new motor in without it, but may have to if it doesn't show up by mid-next week. I've decided to use my 4.4 DME to get it running on, then once I have it back home I'll ship that off to get some coding done so it can make the most of the 4.6 motor and 4.4 everything else and get a full delete of the secondary air pump system.
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__________________
Current
2002 E53 X5 4.4i - original owner
2021 E53 X5 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro

Last edited by Henn28; 12-09-2021 at 05:54 PM.
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  #180  
Old 12-15-2021, 10:37 PM
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motor is in

The motor went in today, not without some drama, but less than I was expecting. A recap of the past week first:

Last Thursday, Friday and today (Monday) weíre spent finishing the prep work on the old motor, pulling the axles with the steering knuckles, hooking up the hoist, supporting and disconnecting the tranny , and finally pulling the motor out of the top. Initially I used a motor hoist but it ran out of throw with the lower oil pan still in the car. I could have lowered the car off the jackstands, but the shop has a forklift which did the trick. Hooked that mister up to the leveling bar, took the weight and disconnected the hoist. A few bolts on the tranny were a real challenge, especially the ones with nuts on them at the UK starter flange. Awful to get to. Having the intake and cowl off allowed for easier top access to the upper tranny bolts. I did have to remove the diff as well because it wouldnít clear the power steering rack where it connects to the steering shaft.

Monday and Tuesday were spent pulling the engine mounting brackets, compressor, lots of wiring and hose brackets, headers, flywheel and installing all the above after a really good clean. A little logistics shuffle with the forklift, hoist, and engine stand and we were ready to drop it in this morning. I couldn't pull the ball joints for the tension struts after 20 years of hard use, so I took them to a machine shop yesterday that made quick work of them and replaced the axle seals while they were at it.

I spent 2 hours cleaning my engine bay this morning before the new motor went in. The amount of caked on dirt and oil was pretty amazing. Then I spent an hour looking for the 4 right axle pedestal bolts, which must have gotten swept up and thrown out, before realizing that I had a lot of M8x25 bolts on hand as its a common bolt, and I overbought most bolts as a way to play my slice. One other issue I had was with the new exhaust manifold studs (the ones joining the headers to the mid-section). The knurled section is twice as long on the new ones I bought as it was on the original, and I couldn't drive them all the way into the headers. I went as far as I could, and reused one old one that simply refused to get hammered in more than a MM.

Forklift got hooked up mid morning, I put new motor mounts and transmission dowls in, and we hosted the motor into the bay. The headers barely clear the plastic bits surrounding the electronics and brake booster, and some leverage was needed to make sure it didn't clean off the ABS module. BMW's hoist mounts at opposite ends of opposite banks don't help in the sense that the motor needs to go in with an aft tilt of maybe 20 degrees so the flex plate will slip inside transmission housing, and the lower oil pan will clear the subframe. The position of the hoist mounts on the heads makes the motor twist as much as tilt when adjusting the leveler to go for an aft tilt. 30 min of wrangling, assorted jacking of the transmission and one forklift reposit later, and it finally slipped into the tranny housing. It allowed itself to be bolted up to the tranny, so I'm thinking that's a good sign that it mated to the torque converter. another 2 hours of jacking, prying, etc. and I got all the tranny bolts in and tightened down. I witnessed marked the flywheel/flex plate and torque converted before taking the old motor out (before I took the TQ bolts out), so I'll rotate the motor at the crank hub until the witness marks lines up at 6 o'clock.

After that I celebrated with installing all the cooling hoses on the motor side as the radiator will stay out until I someday get the harmonic balancer in my hands and install it.

Hindsight is usually 20/20, but in this case I have no idea if leaving the tranny in the car and pulling the motor out of the top was the best way. This was going to be a monster as PITA no matter which way I chose. I am happy that I didn't have to drain the tranny, buy a jack solution for it or pull the entire front of the car off. That said, perhaps I got lucky and could have run into more significant issues doing it the way I did. The side tranny bolts and having to take the front diff off were the most painful issues I ran into. the UK starter bolts/nuts in particular were awful. 18' of wobble extensions and a flexible head got the job done, 5 degrees at a time!

My idea of pulling the axels with the steering knuckles/hubs as one unit was an abject failure since I ended up having to change the tension strut ball joints anyway. The boots were ripped up and I couldn't get them to budge at all. A local steering and suspension machine shop pulled them out in no time, after pulling the axles out.
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__________________
Current
2002 E53 X5 4.4i - original owner
2021 E53 X5 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro

Last edited by Henn28; 12-15-2021 at 10:58 PM.
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