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  #171  
Old 09-19-2021, 11:03 AM
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Location: Louisiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kspark View Post
Wow, that's incredible. Sadly it looks like the N62 is fully discontinued, but sure enough there are brand new M62's available to buy.
Sounds like a backwards swap is in order!

For those running bigger tires and wheels than stock, and lifts too if present, I’d be interested to hear about your fuel mileage experiences. I’ve been getting about 13.5 mpg around town here in New Orleans. It’s been several years, but I seem to recall getting around 15 mpg around town on the OEM 18” set up that came on the car. It does have 150k on it, but I’m not sure that matters with fuel economy?

I was planning on jumping into my wiring harness for the stereo upgrade later this week, but my wife’s 2015 Grand Cherokee (80k) decided to develop transfer case issues yesterday. When shifting between P, D, and R a distinct and rattle or knocking is heard from the T-case. It continues at low speed until, I think, lockup happens. I unplugged the electric motor on the transfer case and the noise disappeared. Next step I guess is to remove the motor but leave it plugged in and see what happens. Fingers are crossed that it is only the electric motor.
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2002 E53 X5 4.4i - original owner
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife

Last edited by Henn28; 09-19-2021 at 11:10 AM.
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  #172  
Old 09-22-2021, 09:02 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: PNW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henn28 View Post
Sounds like a backwards swap is in order!

For those running bigger tires and wheels than stock, and lifts too if present, Iíd be interested to hear about your fuel mileage experiences. Iíve been getting about 13.5 mpg around town here in New Orleans. Itís been several years, but I seem to recall getting around 15 mpg around town on the OEM 18Ē set up that came on the car. It does have 150k on it, but Iím not sure that matters with fuel economy?

I was planning on jumping into my wiring harness for the stereo upgrade later this week, but my wifeís 2015 Grand Cherokee (80k) decided to develop transfer case issues yesterday. When shifting between P, D, and R a distinct and rattle or knocking is heard from the T-case. It continues at low speed until, I think, lockup happens. I unplugged the electric motor on the transfer case and the noise disappeared. Next step I guess is to remove the motor but leave it plugged in and see what happens. Fingers are crossed that it is only the electric motor.
I get about 1 MPG less with the Falken Wildpeaks on (17.0 MPG mostly highway vs 18.0 on all-seasons).

Surprisingly, refreshing the suspension improved fuel economy quite a bit.
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  #173  
Old 10-08-2021, 02:50 PM
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Join Date: May 2021
Location: Louisiana
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Had a couple hours today so I headed to the garage to install knock sensors and the valley plumbing.

The knock sensors are new but the rear x-manifold and pipes are eBay pieces. I Got some good lessons learned from an E39 guy who built up a new 4.6 motor to swap into his car and used Permatex #85420 on the manifold and block (either side of the gaskets). The manifold cleaned up nicely but it is used so the permatex canít hurt I think. A liberal amount of mechanics grease on the o-rings helped the pipes pop in and should help with the seal. Iím hopeful I donít regret buying used parts, I plan on pressure testing the system after I get the motor in and before putting the intake on.

I wasnít sure what torque to put on the M6 w/washer manifold bolts as I couldnít find this info anywhere, so I went with 15 to 20 NM as this is close to the torque put on similar gasketted/sealed pieces that attach to the block. It wasnít an exact science as I have a very nice but way too large for this job electronic torque wrench, and a very old beam type I use for low torque values. I need to bite the bullet and get a quality torque Wrench for low values.

Up next when I have time will be installing an alternator, a power steering pump, oil hoses to block flange and dip-stick tube. Then Iíll put the pulleys and drives on, including the balancer, and it will finally be time to pull the 4.4 out of my X5. Once itís out Iíll rob the flywheel, starter and right front axle carrier and install them on the 4.6. Iíll get all new hoses, CCV crap and rubber parts on that I can at this point, either in the engine bay or on the motor.

Iím hoping to leave the front diff and left axle in the car and just bolt it back up with new gaskets/o-rings when I put the new motor in. Iím not sure though that there is enough play in it to work the right axle free of the diff so it can come out with the motor. Otherwise Iíll pull it out too and swap it to the 4.6 on the stand. Pulling axles can be a pita, so Iím looking to minimize brain damage.

An update on the oil flange bolts that realOEM doesnít think exist: I tried a few bolt sizes today and they are definitely M8 and the hole in the block is 25 mm deep. When the flange arrives Iíll measure it and order something that will work. Probably M8x25 or maybe even 30 with washers or flanges, depending on the oil flange depth and shape.
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__________________
2002 E53 X5 4.4i - original owner
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife

Last edited by Henn28; 10-08-2021 at 03:30 PM.
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  #174  
Old 10-19-2021, 12:48 PM
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Location: CT
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I bought these new style 75 two-piece BBS 19'' for our X5 to do a build, but ended up selling the car. We bought a newer X5 instead.

Will accept any reasonable offer need these gone!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...1970402433204/
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