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  #31  
Old 12-26-2020, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
It's thicker and thinner. The zero means it's thinner when cold the 40 means it's thicker when warm.

Since usually the vanos or chain tension problems are just when cold the lower number is likely the significant one. The problem is without testing it's just a guess which the car wants. Logically b thinner so it can get to the devices easier but maybe thicker develops back pressure etc. I would prob use 0-30 if I needed to try something different but I've never even seen that weight but wasn't looking either
I have been using Mobil 1 0W40 fully synthetic the last 2 oil changes, coupled with Mann filter from fcpeuro. That combo doesn't do much for my startup rattles.

In fact the longer I go without changing the oil, the louder and longer the rattle becomes on cold starts.

The new oil+filter has been good at reducing the noises. I'll report back if it's a consistent reduction for the next 3~6 months.

I think I'm gonna shorten the oil change interval as well. I've been doing it once a year at around the 7,500 miles mark.

Probably gonna do it every 6 months regardless of the mileage.
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  #32  
Old 12-26-2020, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Maruzo View Post
I have been using Mobil 1 0W40 fully synthetic the last 2 oil changes, coupled with Mann filter from fcpeuro. That combo doesn't do much for my startup rattles.
Try the BMW filter? Try a different tensioner? Or try a different weight oil? Other than that I'm not sure there is anything you can do. Perhaps swap out the spring in your tensioner for a stiffer spring if you can find one (albeit that might be total guesswork and a potential risk). You know one thing I am curious about... why replacing the guides would actually do anything to quiet the noise? My understanding is that lack of tension on the chain causes the noise. But I guess if the guides are very worn that could cause reduced tension on the chain. Or perhaps the chain itself has become slightly stretched over time and needs to be replaced. I was talking to a BMW enthusiast (had a big BMW tattoo on his arm) at the auto store they other day and he said replacing the timing chain guides is not really that hard and people make too big a deal out of it. I'm eager to try it but unfortunately I do not have a garage. I'll need to wait for summer if I want to attempt the job outside. In the meantime I'm in the same boat as you. I'm hearing a noticeable rattle at startup and a mild rattle at idle.
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  #33  
Old 12-26-2020, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Squiggy View Post
Try the BMW filter? Try a different tensioner? Or try a different weight oil? Other than that I'm not sure there is anything you can do. Perhaps swap out the spring in your tensioner for a stiffer spring if you can find one (albeit that might be total guesswork and a potential risk). You know one thing I am curious about... why replacing the guides would actually do anything to quiet the noise? My understanding is that lack of tension on the chain causes the noise. But I guess if the guides are very worn that could cause reduced tension on the chain. Or perhaps the chain itself has become slightly stretched over time and needs to be replaced. I was talking to a BMW enthusiast (had a big BMW tattoo on his arm) at the auto store they other day and he said replacing the timing chain guides is not really that hard and people make too big a deal out of it. I'm eager to try it but unfortunately I do not have a garage. I'll need to wait for summer if I want to attempt the job outside. In the meantime I'm in the same boat as you. I'm hearing a noticeable rattle at startup and a mild rattle at idle.
Knock on wood my rattle is only at startup now. It has noticeably reduced after I switched to bmw filter and the new 0w30 oil from costco.

But yeah, when weather permits I'll look into both the chain and the guide replacement.

First thing on the list is a lift!
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  #34  
Old 12-27-2020, 12:55 AM
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This is from a Lexus forum. Thought it was interesting and maybe relevant...

"Number one reason why plastic chain guides fail is because of improper chain tension. The older 20R wasn't more durable because it had metal guides, it was because they were running double row chains. The same year Toyota switched to plastic guides (1983), they also switched to single row chains. The chains eventually stretched more than what the tensioner could accommodate so the chain would bang against the guides. Of course once people see the plastic parts shattered, they attributed the problem being the plastic itself, rather than what caused the failure in the first place. When done right, plastic guides are not bad. There are plenty of engines out there without failures."
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  #35  
Old 12-27-2020, 01:10 AM
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I'm just guessing but I imagine if your (or my) timing chain is slightly elongated then putting a slightly stronger spring in the tensioner might help. That would be an interesting, albeit maybe risky, thing to try.
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  #36  
Old 12-27-2020, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Squiggy View Post
I'm just guessing but I imagine if your (or my) timing chain is slightly elongated then putting a slightly stronger spring in the tensioner might help. That would be an interesting, albeit maybe risky, thing to try.
Found a guy who did this on another forum and he said it fixed the problem. He put a stronger spring in his tensioner. It kinda makes sense. If your chain is slightly elongated then buying a new tensioner may not help because it will be speced out to match an in spec chain. If your chain is out of spec the theory goes, you may need an out of spec tensioner. I guess I would try a 3rd party spring that was just mildly stronger and if that did not help buy one just a little bit stronger, until the noise goes away. Assuming this actually works of course and assuming you are willing to take the risk.
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Old 12-27-2020, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Squiggy View Post
Found a guy who did this on another forum and he said it fixed the problem. He put a stronger spring in his tensioner. It kinda makes sense. If your chain is slightly elongated then buying a new tensioner may not help because it will be speced out to match an in spec chain. If your chain is out of spec the theory goes, you may need an out of spec tensioner. I guess I would try a 3rd party spring that was just mildly stronger and if that did not help buy one just a little bit stronger, until the noise goes away. Assuming this actually works of course and assuming you are willing to take the risk.
Later I found mention of other people who have reported good results using the spring for an M54 tensioner in their M62 tensioners. You can buy the M54 spring online for $5 US.
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  #38  
Old 12-27-2020, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Squiggy View Post
Later I found mention of other people who have reported good results using the spring for an M54 tensioner in their M62 tensioners. You can buy the M54 spring online for $5 US.
That's a great tip. Do you have a part number for the M54 spring?

Could it be this one?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...kaAhPHEALw_wcB

If it's a simple matter of just swapping out the M62 spring with the M54 spring, that can be done easily.
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  #39  
Old 12-27-2020, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Maruzo View Post
That's a great tip. Do you have a part number for the M54 spring?

Could it be this one?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...kaAhPHEALw_wcB

If it's a simple matter of just swapping out the M62 spring with the M54 spring, that can be done easily.
Thanks. I'm not 100% sure. I did not see anyone post a direct link. Here is the one I found. I think it is the same as the one you found.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...Lw_wcB#fitment
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  #40  
Old 12-27-2020, 05:57 AM
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I just bought the M54 spring. The M62 tensioner is coming in the mail in about 10 days. I will compare the two springs and post photos.
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