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  #21  
Old 01-11-2021, 10:12 AM
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Did you record the sound? TC spline skip doesn't usually sound at all like grinding gears it's more like pop pop pop (but metallic "tink") and holy crap loud.

Also: if engine keeps turning in gear make sure to put in N before P so you don't slam into parking prawl with the transmission spinning as if going 10-15 mph. (I recommend turning off the engine before putting in P).
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  #22  
Old 01-11-2021, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Did you record the sound? TC spline skip doesn't usually sound at all like grinding gears it's more like pop pop pop (but metallic "tink") and holy crap loud.

Also: if engine keeps turning in gear make sure to put in N before P so you don't slam into parking prawl with the transmission spinning as if going 10-15 mph. (I recommend turning off the engine before putting in P).

It sounds exactly like the video I posted the link to Andrew. Around the 51 seconds mark on the video.
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  #23  
Old 01-11-2021, 09:16 PM
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Sound would be the same (or very similar) for either striped drive shaft splines or an axle popping out of the diff (splines running on splines).

Symptoms would be a little different though. I'd jack up the front and check that each front drive axle is secured into the front diff. And while you're there, check the rear end of the front drive shaft, where is connects to the transfer case (should be visible even with reinforcing plate in place).
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  #24  
Old 01-11-2021, 11:01 PM
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Guys, thank you so much thus far for providing very useful tips/advices.

I was able to jack up the front of the SUV today. The front drive axles look like they are connected to the differential pretty solid. No looseness of any kind I can feel or see.

In the spinning the wheels tests, if I lightly/slowly spin each front wheel, it spins but does not grind. If I give it a little quicker rotation/spin, then I hear the grinding sound and it sounds more towards the center of the vehicle. I do see the prop shaft spin from the differential (this is from the driver's side front tire turned to the right and gives me clear visual into the diffrential and guibo plate with the drive shaft).

The front diff, guibo flex plate, and the front drive shaft are still securely connected. It was a little dark and I wasn't dressed to lay on the ground to check on the transfer case.

The transfer looks completely dry. No liquid/fluid of any kind...no leaks...super clean and dry looking.

I'm not sure how much of this information helps. I am very greatful for the tips/help so far. Please keep them coming.

Thank you.
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  #25  
Old 01-12-2021, 11:55 AM
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I just had the TC spline issue happen. I was leaving a stop light and I hear a pop and the motor free-revved. The loud ratchetting sound ensued and I could not get any power to the wheels. I coasted to the shoulder.

When I got the X5 back to my garage I put the X5 on jackstands and went under to investigate. Since I have a NV125 TC, with all 4 wheels off the ground and the transmission in park, if I turn the front driveshaft the rear must turn an equal speed and
opposite direction. I went under the car and turned the front driveshaft by hand. Front wheels spun but rear driveshaft did not spin. This was a good enough diagnosis for me to pull the front driveshaft. It's actually not that difficult to get the front driveshaft out. Take the bolts out of the guibo and then use a prybar (large old flat head screwdriver) and pry the driveshaft into the transfercase. There is a lot of play to slide the driveshaft into the transfercase you just need to overcome the friction caused by by the driveshaft output rubber seal. Once you get the driveshaft to slide back into the transfercase a little bit you should be able to wiggle the guibo and centering plate out. Once the guibo is clear you can slide the driveshaft out and inspect the splines. My money is on stripped splines for both the driveshaft and the TC front output.

Since only a section of the splines in the TC output were stripped, I opted to buy the longer driveshaft from Cobra transmission. It comes with a new guibo and oddly LHD threaded new hardware. This allows me to engage another inch of fresh splines + whats left of the splines on the front part of the TC output. The longer driveshaft was more difficult to install. I was not able to wiggle it into the TC front output without first removing the front section of the exhaust, and backing the transfercase off of the transmission another 1/2" inch.
When you put it all back together, do one last check before tightening the front driveshaft guibo: make sure that the driveshaft isn't bottoming out in the transfercase front output. It shouldn't be but if for some reason the driveshaft is too long it will bottom out.

I made a step by step write up in another post for this. Go read through it.

Fact: X5's with the NV125 transfercase will roll in park if drive is removed from either front or rear axle. That means that you'll want to use the emergency brake while parked if you have stripped the splines on the front driveshaft. Also, take every precaution to only jack an X5 on level ground. If any wheel is off the ground, an NV125 X5 can easily roll off of a jack or jack stand. Always chock the wheels or use the emergency brake to keep the rear axle from rolling before jacking.
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Last edited by ///Monster123; 01-12-2021 at 12:08 PM.
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  #26  
Old 01-12-2021, 01:55 PM
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If turning front wheel turns the prop shaft, you're looking at TC spline issue. Usually best fix is the spline extension kit (an end with longer spline is added to the back end of shaft after cutting off the old).
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  #27  
Old 01-12-2021, 11:40 PM
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Yes, looks like all evidences and testing is pointing to the TC/drive shaft spline issue.
I'm going to go with the 2-piece drive shaft aftermarket kit. It costs about the same as the one offered by Cobra Transmission, but minus the extra hard work having to remove the muffler, lowering the transmission, and shifting the TC out. The less time I need to spend laying underneath the car, the healthier it may be for my health... @: -)

So Monster123, you are absolutely sure that I can move the front drive shaft back a little bit to pull the guibo flex plate out buy prying the front end of the drive shaft with a prybar further into the TC? I dont think I need to worry too much about damaging the drive shaft. Just want to get it out w/o requiring cutting it. Would be a lot easier. Maybe I can spray some PB blaster at the end of the drive shaft mated to the transfer case?

Will up the thread on my progress.

Thanks everyone!

-Chris
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  #28  
Old 01-13-2021, 07:48 AM
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Historically the shafts that end up with spline issues happen from being too short so after the ones likely to be able to be removed without moving the TC.

That said the prop shaft is hollow and is not a big deal to cut with any form of metal cutting solution.

Recently when I couldn't get my bandsaw into a tight space I used a tubing cutter to cut a galvanized water pipe in half and even that would probably work (not to mention make the cleanest cut ever). I think the 2-piece guys offer a core return price to convert into the two piece kits.

Harbor fright sells angle grinders stupid cheap. I just cut the hub off an old brake rotor in under ten minutes It would take less than a minute to cut a prop shaft in half.

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  #29  
Old 01-15-2021, 11:56 AM
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Chrisfuture8 - The only issue with the 2 piece kit or the weld in place kit is ensuring that the driveshaft is balanced when installed. Buying a completed driveshaft that has been balanced seems less risky to me. The last thing I would want is to finish up the project and take it for the initial drive only to find a new drivetrain vibration.

Yes, you can totally push that driveshaft back. The rubber seal should be the only resistance that you would need to overcome in order to slide the front driveshaft into the transfercase front output. I suppose there is the possibility that the splines are aligned and not engaged. You could check this by trying to rotate the driveshaft by hand while prying on it. Once the splines are engaged there should only be the spongy spring back resistance provided by the rubber seal and any trapped air in the transfercase front output area.

Pelican Parts has written an excellent walkthrough on removing the front driveshaft. Read through this.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
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  #30  
Old 01-15-2021, 09:25 PM
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More updates:

I was able to remove the front drive shaft (DS) without having to cut it at the weld mark by the transfercase end. I pushed the DS rearward as much as I could and then I removed the guibo flex plate. Pulling the flex plate off, I was able to manuever the DS out of the drivetrain.

Now the question is, if I purchase the 1 piece DS from Cobra transmission, should I be able to install it w/o having to move the transfercase and anything else around?

The install order would be the DS to the transfer case and leave the DS hanging out of the way.
Then install the new guibl plate and the adapter plate together.
Then move the DS up to mate with the adapter plate.

Does that make sense and would it work?

If not, I'll go with the 2 piece kit as originally planned. I think Charlie balance the DS before he sales them.

Chris
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