AWR-Fix: Remove Stuck Axle From Hub

[andrewwynn]

I was doing to make one. It's basically the same exact function of the slide hammer I used. You can't get much of a swing but they would work pretty well in most cases.

That only helps once the axle is out if Its seized. I tried pretty hard with the axle in to pull the hub out. Never gonna happen.

My calculations predict impacts of 12-15,000# with 3-4# hammer which is far more than needed to move a hub out of a bearing

You never want to use impact to press a bearing. Impact kills bearings in fact BMW has a TSB to preemptive replace a wheel bearing on any wheel that was impacted in a crash. (that by the way is how most wheel bearing failure happens. Pothole in a curve). If the seal doesn't fail, a wheel bearing can last a million miles .



I've never seen a bearing you could drive on that looked this bad. This was the bearing I replaced related to the axle that was fused.

[c-bass]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I was doing to make one. It's basically the same exact function of the slide hammer I used. You can't get much of a swing but they would work pretty well in most cases.

That only helps once the axle is out if Its seized. I tried pretty hard with the axle in to pull the hub out. Never gonna happen.

My calculations predict impacts of 12-15,000# with 3-4# hammer which is far more than needed to move a hub out of a bearing

You never want to use impact to press a bearing. Impact kills bearings in fact BMW has a TSB to preemptive replace a wheel bearing on any wheel that was impacted in a crash. (that by the way is how most wheel bearing failure happens. Pothole in a curve). If the seal doesn't fail, a wheel bearing can last a million miles .



I've never seen a bearing you could drive on that looked this bad. This was the bearing I replaced related to the axle that was fused.

Those aren't a puller type tool. You hammer on it with a sledge.

I watched a few videos of people removing the hub WITH the axle still attached, mind you it wasn't on an X5 but still seemed to do the trick with some really rusty bearings/hubs/axles.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by c-bass

Those aren't a puller type tool. You hammer on it with a sledge.



I watched a few videos of people removing the hub WITH the axle still attached, mind you it wasn't on an X5 but still seemed to do the trick with some really rusty bearings/hubs/axles.

Yep I'm aware of the type of tool.

The situation I was dealing with was a "once in a lifetime" fused situation. I tried to pull the hub off the axle but it gave me the finger and laughed at me.

It took an estimated 35,000# to pull the axle and about 15,000# to pull the hub. Together= 50,000#.

The hammer on tool shown above holds two bolts. That can hold 32,000# (with X5 lugs) but you wouldn't want to subject your lug bolts to the sideways stress and if you use class 8.8 you get 24,000.


24k will take a hub out around an axle 90% of the time and like I said I was going to build nearly identical tool out of an old rotor (3-4 bolts and much stronger).

This thread is about how to deal with the 1 a lifetime m-fkr fused axle especially if the axle is not expendable

[Effduration]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Round two:

You could create the same tool with hardware store stuff.

I bought two of the 8" long grade 8 1" bolts for like $10 and you could use some pipe flanges for the center push plate. The main trick here is using an old rotor as the main push plate because it's of course an exact fit to the hub.

running into a stuck front CV axle on my X5..

I have the old rotor that I can use. Plan on running out to buy 1 inch bolts. I worry that a 1 inch threaded pipe flange will become the weakest link...I think I can find an iron pipe flange...Is that what I should buy?

I'll buy some good 1" nuts too...If the flange does strip I'll put a bolt in front of it.

[andrewwynn]

You need 3-5 70mm m14 bolts to hold the old rotor to the hub.

Pipe flange should hold the force but you would have to drill it out for 1" bolt to fit through as pipe thread is not the same as a bolt. You can use a 7/8" bolt and 1" flange.

The beauty is: you don't have to just use the bolt + turn: once you snug it good and tight, hit the bolt with a hammer.

Tighten, hit, repeat as necessary.

[Effduration]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

You need 3-5 70mm m14 bolts to hold the old rotor to the hub.

Pipe flange should hold the force but you would have to drill it out for 1" bolt to fit through as pipe thread is not the same as a bolt. You can use a 7/8" bolt and 1" flange.

The beauty is: you don't have to just use the bolt + turn: once you snug it good and tight, hit the bolt with a hammer.

Tighten, hit, repeat as necessary.

Thanks for all this...I understand the 7/8 SAE bolt sliding thru the 1" NPT flange with a 7/8 bolt and maybe a washer on the other side.

[andrewwynn]

That is correct. I broke the hub of the rotor just applying torque to the 1" bolt at an estimated 25,000# of force. Put a good dose of torque and then hit the end with a BFH rather than try to just turn the bolt. Also liquid wrench on the stuck axle and grease on the pushing bolt.

I stretched the M14 that weren't hardened, best get 10.9 M14. Do a test fit with the flange and nut to see how long you need.

[Effduration]

Okay I have 6+ E46, E39 & E53s, and have done a lot of work over the last 10 yrs.
Engines replacements, manual swaps, clutch jobs, rear ball joints (E53/E39)

Removing a stuck axle in an E53 from a rusty state is tougher than any other jobs I have encountered. You don't really know if you will ever get it out, and if you do, what collateral damage there might be.

I finally got mine out today (front driver's side) using a free hub puller from Advanced Auto - Only one they had fit - I torqued it up, then hit it with a 4 lb hammer. I worried I might break the tool. This was after 1 1/2 days of trying other methods and lubricating

I attempted to use Andrew's method of a 3/4 long bolt, an iron 1" pipe flange, but I need longer M14x 1.5 threaded bolts for the lug nut holes as my lug nuts weren't long enough..I couldn't get them quickly. This would definitely be a more powerful/durable set-up than the hub puller I used.

Here are my tips:
- wire brush and lubricate all exposed threads on ball joints and suspension bolts
- leave all ball joints intact and go after axle first
- Remove speed sensor and flood the insides with penetrating liquid.
- you may have let penetrating oil sit for a day or two
- loosen both strut nuts and remove the upper strut bolt and nut. Tilt knuckle forward
- Install Hub puller, torque it up with a breaker bar, and start swinging with a hammer.

[ahlem]

I’m sticking to the hydraulic one. If you were local, I’d loan it to you.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by ahlem

I’m sticking to the hydraulic one. If you were local, I’d loan it to you.

I'd have gotten a hydraulic press a while ago if i could find one with enough force to deal with the likes of the problem that caused me to make this thread.. most are 5-10 ton at most and the axle that i broke free in this thread was well over 15T of force to remove.