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  #51  
Old 04-01-2024, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
You can pull the axle out vs. redo the steel strap but it's not easy. Ask me how I know.

I think due to exactly three same reason.

You have practice with the strap now it'll probably be easier to just redo it.

That said if the axle just taps out don't have much to lose I forget if there's any retention besides friction.
Hahahah I want to cry and laugh at the same time, undid toils of my afternoon and used a plastic zip tie as a test now, and I think judging by vids and photos I have put the arm where it is supposed to be , now in this rested position I am only seeing what this fella in pic is seeing in terms of cable during install of a new carrier (hope this cable length is not something brand specific though cos I will surely tear my hair out) anyhow by doing this altering the arm position, i am getting probably what is the correct full motion of the mechanism that will unlock the door....really tempted to go buy another one in case on D day I have messed up. I will proceed to the metal zip tie another time, as trying to get that spring in and under has decimated and bloodied my fingers! thanks again for all help...
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  #52  
Old 04-01-2024, 04:17 PM
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This shows the exact tooth sync.

Plastic tie alone won't hold. It works as a backup to get a working spongy release (I used to put around new installs as a backup for when hub breaks but it'll be spongy). The force on that joint is insane
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  #53  
Old 04-01-2024, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post

This shows the exact tooth sync.

Plastic tie alone won't hold. It works as a backup to get a working spongy release (I used to put around new installs as a backup for when hub breaks but it'll be spongy). The force on that joint is insane
Hey Andrew hi again , cheers for photo browsed over that my bad as was in a hurry to see your tie fix tactic, I think I have it in right place if my interpretation of your pic is correct i.e that the arrows point to where those 'teeth' sink in and make contact ...(further down cos you lubed it all up cant see final result but im pretty confident its like i think it is) PS yup indeed the zip tie is not pulling it together fully, but was for test purposes anyhow ....thanks again...
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Last edited by omodos; 04-01-2024 at 04:35 PM.
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  #54  
Old 04-01-2024, 04:40 PM
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Your pic is correct.
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  #55  
Old 04-01-2024, 08:13 PM
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@Andrewwynn What trouble shooting skills?? You just reposted information from an old post of mine telling you that you were wrong about the counterweight and describing my theory on how it works, almost copying what I said word for word and now saying that it is your theory. Yikes!

You get a compliment and it goes straight to your head and you think you are some kind of expert.
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  #56  
Old 04-04-2024, 10:53 AM
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Your pic is correct.
Right ok I did undid my steel cable tie fix 3 more times since last posting and for some reason for the life of me xoutpost wouldn't allow me to logon! anyway ended up with a different tactic, anyone recall taking off the front cover of pc to reveal those cut-push out plates that when removed make space for a cd-rom or extra harddrive etc? anyhow used a 1cm/1cm approx part of this part as a shim under tie, and 2 other bits of st.steel cable tie to "cradle" this shim and prevent i it even slipping out... am a tad worried though that extra 3-4mm it add as a shim to the carrier will prevent carrier from fitting?2nd pic with arrows shows the st.steel ties bent on either side of the fatter shim, 3rd shows these bits now folded down and even if folded will prevent slippage off the shim off, last 2 are of other posts and am hoping if last 2 shims were all good and didn't tamper install of carrier then so should my fix. Its just that I haven't taken off x5 door card to see how that side with the shim will sit on the inner side of the door..or whether it has some clearance or actually hugs surface of door panel so to speak...anyway knew my old gateway 2000 would come in handy
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  #57  
Old 04-04-2024, 10:54 AM
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@Andrewwynn What trouble shooting skills?? You just reposted information from an old post of mine telling you that you were wrong about the counterweight and describing my theory on how it works, almost copying what I said word for word and now saying that it is your theory. Yikes!

You get a compliment and it goes straight to your head and you think you are some kind of expert.
For what its worth if pics and toiling was your doing respect , thanks
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  #58  
Old 04-07-2024, 11:16 AM
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6 hours! But took it out and in 3 times...the cable socket on repaired old carrier just kept popping out of joint! So used spare cable from oem carrier .much tighter fit but door wouldnt open. Finally cable from broken i removed worked fine...vapour barrier tears courtesy of prior mechanic fixes, i secured up with aluminum adhesive tape....and whilst in the guts of door replaced window clip and did a st.steel zip tie re enforce as i think the sliding plates were on the way out....totally shattered as had stress.of odd weather threatening whole operation. Next time i will have a new one handy and sure that up with a cable tie...darn cable totally threw me..all goodvthough in the end...i will buy a carrier for front passenger side now. Ps heat undid the top plastic inner part of door from the door card....so had to go get some epoxy resin to sure that up too...glue gun may have worked but didnt use...
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Last edited by omodos; 04-07-2024 at 11:21 AM.
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  #59  
Old 04-07-2024, 12:36 PM
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If the cable is too short for whatever reason, including the cable casing jumping out of holder, the door latch won't reset after closing and door won't open. Good call on getting a new carrier.
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  #60  
Old 04-07-2024, 03:01 PM
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If the cable is too short for whatever reason, including the cable casing jumping out of holder, the door latch won't reset after closing and door won't open. Good call on getting a new carrier.
no idea what issue was, cos compared all cables n they had identical length, so ended up using cable out of existing broke carrier...and worked. Yup gonna get a new one for the passenger side, cos during the fix of an old broken one got a tad lost on where the teeth needed to be lined up for the arm to correctly n fully pull up the cable with ball socket...in the end all good though...still gonna strengthen new one though...gonna need the epoxy resin am sure inner plastics will have come undone unless any of you fellas know if a glue gun would work instead....
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