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#1
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My 2002 BMW X5 4.6is plastic timing chain parts broke.! HELP AND ADVISE PLEASE.!
Last edited by Dexteris; 03-11-2021 at 07:45 PM. |
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#2
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IMO 7k is a bit high. Get a 2nd or even 3rd quote for a reputable BMW Indy. I would fix your current engine if it still runs and do no run it anymore if it still does...
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02 Imola on Black Dinan S2 4.6iS 00 RoyalRot on Sand/Black 740i Short Sport |
#3
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Thank you. And yes I was thinking the same thing. Budie tried to offer me $500 for it the way it is. No way in hell. What is this BMW Indy? Ive read it a few times on other threads.
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#4
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Independent Mechanic who knows BMWs
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02 Imola on Black Dinan S2 4.6iS 00 RoyalRot on Sand/Black 740i Short Sport |
#5
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Quote:
Most cities will have a shop that specializes in german or european vehicles. They tend to be more familiar with the service requirements of these cars and should be able to give you a better quote than dealer rate. The guy that offered you $500 is a prick, that's at least a $1000 car Honestly though the timing chain guides is a pretty normal issue for these vehicles and is within the realm of a DIY fix depending on your wrenching skills. Definitely no reason to do anything drastic like tearing out the engine unless you were driving around like that and caused some real damage. Andrewwynn is one of the resident experts around here and has done this service several times. I'm sure he could give you a very good idea of what's it all about. 4.6 in distress?? He should be along any minute... |
#6
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K so I drove it was then half a block. Soon as I head the engine start making tractor noises I pulled over and parked it. I definitely would enjoy doing the work myself. I'm not 100% familiar with the mechanics of BMW but I am fairly knowledgable about them and I've worked on a couple of my older BMW's I had.
Oh and here's the thing, I did take it to a European shop here in town. I thought it was odd when the guy that low balled me on it(the mechanic who did the scan and looked at it) mentioned I would have to replace the motor then it cost about the same because of the wording harness? ...the wire harness is fine. And pretty sure and engine swap doesn't involve the wiring harness all that much. Anyway, thanks for the replies. I now know what an Indy is- not an Indian. Lol L |
#7
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So what Im thinking is I should probably get a rebuild kit for the 4.6 ...or ...?
And thanks everyone for the replies. More help the better. |
#8
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I'm doing the guides now. It's a big job in the sense that a lot has to come off the engine and out of the engine bay but it's not so huge an undertaking that it cant be done with mostly normal tools and a weekend in the garage. FCP, ECS, AZAUTOHAUS, and other vendors have "kits" that they sell which contain everything needed for the job. If you think you can take this on yourself I'd recommend you real the German auto solutions m62 timing guide diy and the beisan systems vanos diy guide (you don't have to do the vanos work but there is good info in the document) there are a few other diys posted on the forums that you can google. The 4 things you will absolutely need are 1. A ft/lb torque wrench. 2. An inch/lb torque wrench. 3. A 450 ft/lb impact for the jesus bolt (google it). And lastly the timing tools for the m62, I highly recommend the GAS set, it's the one I have and its amazingly easy to use. Otherwise if you have a garage, some mechanical skill beyond changing oil, and a garage or driveway to park the car in safely then you should be able to do it no problem. Also download the m62 torque specs doc, the one I have I got from e38.org and follow it to a T or you will break stuff.
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Again Daily Driven SC'd 4.6iS, whats the point of having a sweet ride if you dont use it all the time. Last edited by Nolimite39; 03-12-2021 at 02:50 PM. Reason: Spelling errors |
#9
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Quote:
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'05 E53 X5 4.4i, '97 E39 528, '07 E92 335i, '16 F86 X6M. |
#10
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Its a beast of a job. I messed up and didn't have the engine at TDC of the #1 compression stroke (cams were 180 from where they should be). Couldn't put it back together without it binding when I turned it over by hand so I ended up pulling and reinstalling the cams which added some time and labor. So here are a few extra pointers:
1. Follow the diy's to a T and make sure you read through the entire DIY a couple times right before you do the work. 2. The lower timing cover bolts that are installed form the bottom (6 total) are a bitch to get to, the rear 2 (one on either side) are the biggest bitch. You have to remove the power steering pump. The pump has 3 mounting points, the two bolts in the front and a stud in the back that is likely covered in gunk. Find it, clean it so the threads are bare and you should be able to squeeze your hand in to undo the contraption. there is a large hand nut (i have no idea what to call it) that's made to be turned by hand on the front of the bracket, once loosened you should be able to either unbolt the stud from the pump body or remove the rear nut attaching the stud to the lower cover. 3. The lower timing cover will be very tough to remove from the lower oil pan, I suggest using some waxed dental floss or a thin feeler gauge that you are willing to sacrifice to run between the lower timing cover and upper oil pan gasket because if you damage the gasket the replacement requires lifting the engine halfway out of the car or dropping the subframe. 4. When reassembling, if you use a thin enough zip tie on the guides you can leave it on while you install the upper chain tensioner and then break it and pull it out with a set of needle nose pliers. I'm sure there are more things I'll think of and as I do I'll ad them. GL
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Again Daily Driven SC'd 4.6iS, whats the point of having a sweet ride if you dont use it all the time. |
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