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  #71  
Old 03-27-2021, 03:21 PM
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[CAPTAIN'S LOG DEC 23]


With fresh intake manifold gaskets and a throttle body gasket in hand I've been waiting for weather that didn't involve snow or temperatures below zero and today was the day.

Replacing the throttle body gasket was simple





While I was taking stuff apart I noticed that a hose from the CCV already had signs of mayo in it so I wanted to clean as much of it out but I didn't want to remove any parts of it for fear of breaking something.

Yes I know it's a terrible picture





I figure if I take the hose off from the bottom of the turbine to the dipstick return and disconnect the hose coming from the valve cover that feeds into the top of the turbine I should be able to free up whatever started to build up blowing some air through it.

I was right...Too right!

There was ALL KINDS OF crap that was coming out of there and this was less than 1000km after it was refreshed. I wasn't expecting to have that much build up so quickly but once I was in there I had to finish the job.

The next couple hours I spent blowing crap out of the CCV. The technique I settled on was spraying brake cleaner though the hose, wait........and then blow air through there expelling the crap from the bottom of the turbine.

Unfortunately my air compressor tank is tiny and puts out the CFM equivalent to a butterfly sneezing so this took a while waiting on the thing to refill.

Once I was satisfied with the lack of gravy coming out of the bottom it was on to the intake manifold gasket.
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  #72  
Old 03-27-2021, 04:03 PM
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As I was loosening the intake manifold it felt like one of the bolts was not as tight as the rest I had undone. I don't know if this was in my head or not and I'm not saying it was loose...but just not as tight

Fun fact: The potentially loose bolt was in the general area where I saw the smoke...hmmm

I did the bare minimum to get the intake manifold undone which meant limited space towards the back because I left the fuel line connected but definitely enough to get the gasket replaced, just not great for visuals.

As I was lifting off the manifold I was "hoping" to see some obvious signs of failure from the gasket but not so much.





Maybe some evidence on the engine side?





Nope! Nothing I can see

One of those intakes in the picture is my friend CYL 2, the guy who's name always comes up on the naughty list. Nothing unusual there





If anything there's some more dirt built up around CYL 2 but nothing that I would look at and think gasket failure but what do I know

Well, what I do know is that everything is getting a cleaning so I'll plug the holes and grab some brake cleaner.





I figured if I just sprayed brake cleaner everywhere it would soak the paper towel plugs and probably flood the intake with crap and I wouldn't be able to get in the back anyway.

The small areas I sprayed didn't just magically rinse clean so some agitation was in order. I used a rag for whatever I could reach but then things got a little narrow for me so I used the BMW specific tool for the rest of the cylinders.











Don't worry the paper towel plugs were removed after I had brushed off all the loose stuff off and it had saturated into the paper. Once I was sure there was no loose dirt I sprayed the paint sponge thing with brake cleaner and rubbed off the rest of the build up.

The old intake gasket wasn't very brittle and didn't fall apart on me when I was removing it and upon inspection MIGHT have been a little beat up...but that MIGHT have had something to do with the guy tugging at it to get it off and coming in contact with the threads of a stud. We'll never know for sure.

Got the new intake manifold gasket installed





and then it was time to put everything back together.

All in all I was a little disappointed that I didn't find anything I could point to and say AHA!! But we'll see what happens.
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  #73  
Old 03-27-2021, 07:53 PM
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Probably just dirty before cleaning... But is cylinder 2 the one that looks like it has a tiny crack in the head at the 1 O'Clock position?
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  #74  
Old 03-27-2021, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
Probably just dirty before cleaning... But is cylinder 2 the one that looks like it has a tiny crack in the head at the 1 O'Clock position?
Dirty, but it sure does look like that.

Even if it was clean and cracked I would have probably felt it as CYL 1-4 were cleaned with my index finger and a rag.
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  #75  
Old 03-29-2021, 02:44 PM
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TEST DRIVE TIME

With everything put back together and the codes cleared it was time for a quick drive.

Before I even left the driveway I let the engine idle for a minute just to see if it was going to act up right away. It ran fine.

When I put it in reverse I noticed the RPM didn't drop as much as it has before but that was also hit and miss. Sometimes it would be ok and other times really bogged down so on to the road I go.

I drove around like I have before for 10-15 minutes without any hiccups so I headed back.

Back on the driveway I let it idle for several minutes without any issues. Promising so far.

Time to bring out the big guns! I let the Mrs. loose with the car and waited anxiously for our preliminary test results.

A few hours later the I see the car pulling up on the driveway.

"How did the car run"

- Fine

"Like fine fine? it didn't do the rough idle at the red lights?"

- No it was fine

"No shit?!?"

This obviously is a fluke right?? Let's see what's really going on here.

I skip the bluetooth ODB scanner and go straight for the INPA laptop and do a full scan.

NO MISFIRES!!!!!!!!!

Yes there's still a couple of O2 codes and some other things but...

NO MISFIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I still don't believe that this will stay away so further test driving is in order!
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  #76  
Old 03-29-2021, 03:33 PM
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[MARCH 29/2021]

Today is...well...today...real time today

It's been since Dec 23 and 4000km since I last ran a scan. I wanted to give the car plenty of time to show me his bastard ways and I think this should qualify as a thorough test drive.

Let's get a quick scan aaaaaaaaaand

Suuuuuuuuuuuuuurvey says!!!!








Here's a complete list of the remaining codes





Still no misfires (or white smoke.)

During this time the Bastard has idled plenty and made 2 successful trips to the big city and everywhere in between without any issues.

During these last few months I really didn't know how things were going to turn out with the Bastard and I was very, VERY close to setting this thing on fire.

I didn't want to share any of this previously partly because I felt like tool that I didn't really much to check it out before I bought it but mostly because I didn't want to be yet another post without any resolution at the end of it all. Trust me there are MANY MANY posts out there with the same codes that I was having and nobody seems to get it resolved or at least don't update the posts if they did.

I guess in the last few weeks I've decided that Black Bastard stays. (for now anyway)

Which brings me to the rest of the codes.

I looked into the O2 codes a little while performing the longest test drive ever and they don't seem to be anything "that important" as the fuel mix seems to be fine. It could very well be a bad connection or a dead sensor and seeing how the primary issues I was having are more...let's call them "stable" for now, I can move on to other issues.

I'll have extra O2 sensors to play with once I rip them out of the parts e83 and good outdoor weather is on it's way so I'll revisit those issues shortly.

The PDC (parking distance control) I don't care much about and is very low on the priority list, however I do have several working PDC sensors so one of these warm days I'll pop off the bumpers and get at the sensors.

The transfer case will be getting new oil very soon. That stuff ain't cheap and I didn't want to waste a bottle on the Bastard if it wasn't going to stick around.

There's been a few other things I've already addressed in the last few weeks so I'll have to get caught up with that.

Stay tuned for more stories from the Black Bastard!
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  #77  
Old 03-29-2021, 08:06 PM
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Great yarn, about a great journey.

Interesting to see the the 00BF error (IKI EEPROM error, coding faulty / incomplete) in the list - I have this one too. And I know where it came from.

A couple of years back I had a few spare days over the Christmas/Summer break. Always a precursor to bad stuff happening...

I had been wanting to goof with a little "light coding" and broke out my copy of NCS-Expert and NCS-Dummy (emphasis on the Dummy part).

Figured I'd start with something simple, like altering the coolant warning temp, which on my 3.0d is ridiculous at 125Deg.C. Seemed to work out ok.

So then I tackled (along with some others here) removing the speedo offset - the built in inaccuracy on the analogue speedo dial.

Not only did I fail to eliminate the offset - the flash attempt failed and I nearly bricked the IKE!!

Never did find out why - but I re-flashed the IKE with the backup of the firmware I had made before I started (thank goodness!!) and that flash worked. Everything returned to normal. Might have been bad checksums or shadow copies of the data I altered....

But ever since then I've had the 00BF error (IKI EEPROM error, coding faulty / incomplete). Doesn't seem to worry anything and I cannot seem to remove it.

I suspect flashing the IKE again might sort it but I haven't gone there!!
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  #78  
Old 03-31-2021, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
Great yarn, about a great journey.

Interesting to see the the 00BF error (IKI EEPROM error, coding faulty / incomplete) in the list - I have this one too. And I know where it came from.

A couple of years back I had a few spare days over the Christmas/Summer break. Always a precursor to bad stuff happening...

I had been wanting to goof with a little "light coding" and broke out my copy of NCS-Expert and NCS-Dummy (emphasis on the Dummy part).

Figured I'd start with something simple, like altering the coolant warning temp, which on my 3.0d is ridiculous at 125Deg.C. Seemed to work out ok.

So then I tackled (along with some others here) removing the speedo offset - the built in inaccuracy on the analogue speedo dial.

Not only did I fail to eliminate the offset - the flash attempt failed and I nearly bricked the IKE!!

Never did find out why - but I re-flashed the IKE with the backup of the firmware I had made before I started (thank goodness!!) and that flash worked. Everything returned to normal. Might have been bad checksums or shadow copies of the data I altered....

But ever since then I've had the 00BF error (IKI EEPROM error, coding faulty / incomplete). Doesn't seem to worry anything and I cannot seem to remove it.

I suspect flashing the IKE again might sort it but I haven't gone there!!
Interesting. I appreciate that bit of info.

Believe it or not I do actually have plans to tackle the rest of those error codes but I'm still learning that while things are working...leave them alone!

That's why there's a Swamp thing I can play with

I've been wanting to try my hand at some basic coding. Namely to disable the automatic door locking. The Mrs. hates it and for whatever reason can't get in the routine of hitting the unlock all doors button on the way out.

Seems pretty straight forward...Put vehicle in P, push door unlock, fill car with thrift store finds. But what do I know

I think it's always a good idea to have some external power source when you're coding. This goes for the car AND computer. Battery charger on the car and computer plugged into the wall.

Nothing like having your computer go into sleep mode while you're trying to read or write eeprom
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  #79  
Old 04-16-2021, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
Great yarn, about a great journey.

Interesting to see the the 00BF error (IKI EEPROM error, coding faulty / incomplete) in the list - I have this one too. And I know where it came from.

A couple of years back I had a few spare days over the Christmas/Summer break. Always a precursor to bad stuff happening...

I had been wanting to goof with a little "light coding" and broke out my copy of NCS-Expert and NCS-Dummy (emphasis on the Dummy part).

Figured I'd start with something simple, like altering the coolant warning temp, which on my 3.0d is ridiculous at 125Deg.C. Seemed to work out ok.

So then I tackled (along with some others here) removing the speedo offset - the built in inaccuracy on the analogue speedo dial.

Not only did I fail to eliminate the offset - the flash attempt failed and I nearly bricked the IKE!!

Never did find out why - but I re-flashed the IKE with the backup of the firmware I had made before I started (thank goodness!!) and that flash worked. Everything returned to normal. Might have been bad checksums or shadow copies of the data I altered....

But ever since then I've had the 00BF error (IKI EEPROM error, coding faulty / incomplete). Doesn't seem to worry anything and I cannot seem to remove it.

I suspect flashing the IKE again might sort it but I haven't gone there!!
During one of the usual top up fluid parties on the driveway I noticed the dipstick on Black Bastard was dry

After adding a liter of oil it showed a level again which got me thinking...is my oil level sensor bad? I've had a bad one before and it would show a yellow warning on the dash that would turn off after a couple minutes.

Seeing as how I'm not getting any CEL at all, even when I do the cluster test, could there be a possibility that the EEPROM error might be the cause of some dash lights not coming on?
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  #80  
Old 04-16-2021, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c-bass View Post
During one of the usual top up fluid parties on the driveway I noticed the dipstick on Black Bastard was dry

After adding a liter of oil it showed a level again which got me thinking...is my oil level sensor bad? I've had a bad one before and it would show a yellow warning on the dash that would turn off after a couple minutes.

Seeing as how I'm not getting any CEL at all, even when I do the cluster test, could there be a possibility that the EEPROM error might be the cause of some dash lights not coming on?
Have you opened up the cluster the check the CEL LED is still on the board? Most CEL removals would involve either blocking or removing the CEL LED rather than something more complex like trying to code it out. Path of least resistance etc.

But i guess its possible someone did (try) that way..
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