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  #1  
Old 06-20-2021, 11:09 AM
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Thrust arm bushings.

It's been two weeks since new thrust bushings were installed. The X5 drives better. The X5 feels raised a little bit too. Can some one tell me the fender height with stock style 130 and 235/35R17 tires?

Ball joints were replaced three weeks prior to bushings. The X5 had brake shudder on hard braking. New ball joints helped a little. New thrust bushings fixed the problem. The right side was really bad. I started to press them out. However without a vise, it was hard to do. Instead, I went down the street to a shop. The shop had them pressed out and new ones in quickly. I was surprised one was off o'clock. Both new bushings are clocked correctly. I was able to remove the arms by putting the X5 on ramps. New ball joints made them easy to take off. To reinstall the arms, I had to remove the ramps and wheels. From info here, I used my 3 ton jack to lift it off ramps. The arms were installed and left slightly loose. Once the full weight was on the suspension, ball joints and thrust arm bolts were tightened down. Bushings are from FCP. If they fail again, replacements will be free. Probably at 200,000 miles, they'll need replacing again.
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  #2  
Old 06-20-2021, 11:34 AM
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Nice work! I took the easy route and just put new arms in a few years ago.

Redoing all the rear suspension bits was a pain too.
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  #3  
Old 06-20-2021, 12:17 PM
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The rear will be done eventually. My rear X5 tires lean in a little at the top. Tire wear is not bad yet. The rear shocks look OEM. It's sad. I'm surprised the previous three owners didn't replace them. I plan to install new rear Bilsteins before new tires go on. I'll get one more rotation out of the tires. The previous owner put on the lowest priced 17" Discount Tire had available. Working on getting it done before the next tire rotation at 5,000 miles.
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Old 06-20-2021, 01:20 PM
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Hopefully, you had the full weight of the X on the ground or ramps before tightening up the bushing to the sub-frame. If not, the bushing will wear a lot quicker. I went with PSB polyurethane bushings when I did my X. I used a Sawzall to cut the bushing so that it relieves the pressure on the arm and just fell off. Even if you nick the arm, no problem but I didn't nick the arm. No need to use a press to press in the PSB bushing and no need to clock them.
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Old 06-20-2021, 01:51 PM
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Yes, all the weight was on bushings. I even pressed it up and down a few times. Even moved forward and back a few feet. I had room to tighten the arms with the wheels on. I used a wrench and socket. The ride is so much firm. I can't wait to do the rest of it. If I can't press bushings out, I have an air hammer. The old air hammer inherited from a friend does some crazy fast damage. I used it to take off the mechanical fan off a few months ago.

An old neighbor once did bushing on a Ford small car. I let them borrow a few tools. When he finished, I walked over to take a look. The front end was like 4" higher than the rear! I asked if had tightened the bushings with full weight on. He said, "no". He gave me the look like WTH. Yea, tear it apart again and do it right. Took him another half afternoon to correct it.
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Old 06-20-2021, 04:22 PM
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Thrust arm bushings.

165 Nm on those did you fully torque?

I changed my bushings recently and was able to press in OEM style bushings with my front bearing press tool.

I cut the old with Sawzall like uan mentioned to make easy to remove. The angle chosen to reduce concern of nicking the arm.
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  #7  
Old 06-20-2021, 06:20 PM
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If they were 165 N-M, they came off easy. I put them on a lot more tight. I'll check this week with a torque wrench. A friend gave me a new torque wrench. I'll be replacing a head and timing chain on his '83 F150 300 I6.
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Old 06-20-2021, 08:46 PM
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Very few people torque anything properly working on cars especially suspension.

I just replaced mine that's how I remember. I have a torque multiplier making that job far easier.

The shock tower bolts 250 and the axle nut 420 also are a couple nobody sets.

I way way over torqued my ball joint to tension strut and paid dearly for that one: fused those together like they were welded!
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Old 06-21-2021, 01:25 AM
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I need to check the torque on my right tension strut as I didn't have my torque multiplier when I installed and prob just impacted. My torque adapter goes to 200 Nm though I may have used I forgot.

Replaced right outer CV joint tonight and that means two 16mm bolts at 250 Nm and the axle nut at 420 Nm. My new torque wrench only goes to 138 so 138*3=414 was the "set" value but that is close enough and very awesome to finally get close to having a real set torque
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Old 06-26-2021, 03:32 PM
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I have 2 thrust arms that have been sitting in the garage for years and now time to install them on a 2003 X5. What did you use to pop the thrust arm off the ball joint? I hear that's the toughest part of the job and why I haven't done it yet.
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