Yet Another 3.0 Head Gasket Thread

[andrewwynn]

Oh nice. Well that's the premium solution. I think I'd have gone with 11 mm Benz bolts. Going timesert sets you in a good place I'm excited to see this project come to fruition happy to see major progress

[Russianblue]

at this point the biggest obstacle to overcome is removing the crank hub to repair the timing chain guide I broke when i pulled the head out. I managed to find the original Baum Tools for the job but that'll cost me $250.

have you guys ever seen a design for a home made crank pulley holder? i've got access to a welder and some basic machining stuff. i could make one. but i really need to do it this week. i need to order something today or tomorrow or otherwise have a plan to make something.

i swear this could derail the entire project.

[80stech]

If it's anything like the M20 or most others then a piece of iron (old bed frame etc.) with some holes drilled should do the trick. I wonder if the fan clutch tool (if you have one) would work? Same idea.

[Russianblue]

i could prob engineer something but right now i can't even see the face of the pulley. radiator is still in. i could take it out, but not sure if that will give me enough room to measure.

that's really the issue. you mention "some holes drilled". my first thought is "how big and what pattern?"

if i had a junk pulley that would prob make it easier.

[80stech]

part of the secret is to match a cut out to the ridge of the damper that the pulley sits on (assuming it's like I'm thinking), so if you have a way to do that (jigsaw with metal blade works wonders) and drill then you should be able to make something work when you get access to it.

[Russianblue]

something SIMILAR to this could work although i might make a few adjustments. not sure i trust those bolts to not twist like spaghetti.

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...l-seal.912460/

i suppose the main lesson here is that the pattern is a triangle.

anybody have the measurement of the depth of pulley? that would be needed to know how far out to extend the tool.

This one looks great.

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...-tool.1230846/

Not sure how he cut that pipe first off. Also NO idea where to find this stuff. googling 90mm irrigation pipe connector yields very little.

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by Russianblue

i could prob engineer something but right now i can't even see the face of the pulley. radiator is still in. i could take it out, but not sure if that will give me enough room to measure.

that's really the issue. you mention "some holes drilled". my first thought is "how big and what pattern?"

if i had a junk pulley that would prob make it easier.

Considering everything else you're doing on this project, removing the radiator is so fast and easy, I highly recommend it. If nothing else, that will prevent damage to it.

The AC condenser though, would be a much bigger effort to remove. When I did my HG job, the radiator was out as one of the first things done, and the AC condenser stayed in the whole time. The AC condenser will prevent or limit the depth of any impact wrench attempts on the crank pulley bolt.

Looking on that cool E46 thread linked above, and all the other threads it leads to, shows that the number of ways to skin this cat is unlimited. Here's what I did, and is exactly what I'd do again:

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...t-removal.html

Of course, it requires those tools (or substituting a giant lever), and reliance on the locking pin to hold the flywheel. Worked great for me, but as often happens it appears a vote of the internet would declare it impossible.

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And I agree, I would not trust that screws and nuts tool thing ( https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...l-seal.912460/ ) to transmit 410+ Nm of torque. But it did apparently work, and was a very creative solution.

Well done on getting the TimeSerts all in. No turning back now.

EDIT - if I needed to make a tool to hold that pulley, I'd start with a short length of 3-1/2" black iron pipe (about 100mm OD, if the dimensions on that page are accurate; not galvanized, since it will be welded), and use an angle grinder to make it so it fits snugly within the 3 openings in the pulley. Then weld (or attach some other way) an old bed frame angle iron to it (off-center, since the socket on the crank bolt will be going through the center of the pipe). Of course for all this, I'd confirm dimensions on things before heading to Home Depot for the pipe.

[andrewwynn]

I built a crank pulley holder out of angle iron I will look for a pic. The key was I actually removed the pulley and used the bolts to bolt to the hub.




We welded two angle iron into a box (because first attempt just bent into hockey stick look) but thicker angle or box tubing would work. I cut the"bite" with bandsaw or angle grinder.

The last pic shows how I used to re-install.

[andrewwynn]

For removal I left the holding bar rest up against the fender I just use some 2 x 2 to spread out the force inside the fender


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[Russianblue]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

For removal I left the holding bar rest up against the fender I just use some 2 x 2 to spread out the force inside the fender


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i guess i didn't realize the pulley could be removed/pulled separately. that would certain give you more room to work if nothing else. i saw your setup and i was wondering how that worked. so i can just remove the serp belt and remove the pulley with a standard puller?