Quote:
Originally Posted by E53Envyy
Removing the front driveshaft is rather easy. A couple diy's refer to removing the exhaust and sway bar, these steps are not necessary!
- Jack up the front end so both wheels are off the ground
- remove front wheels
- Remove aluminum reinforcement plate. Note: 6x16mm bolts with 16mm nuts on top. Use an open end wrench to counter hold top nuts
- With the front plate removed you will have easy access to the driveshaft bolts. Remove all 6x16mm bolts and counter hold the 3x16mm nuts. Note: A flathead screwdrivers dropped in the brake rotor cooling channel will prevent the rotor from spinning past the calliper. Do this on both sides to prevent the driveshaft from spinning, reposition for each bolt. Be careful not the strip the nuts! My 16mm wrench was loose and the 15mm wouldn't fit (I tried the imperial size without success). I used a decent amount of penetrating fluid and spun the bolt to loose any rust before holding the nut.
- With all 6 bolts removed, pull out the flex disc guibo.
- lightly tap the front driveshaft out of the splines using a 2x4 and hammer. Spin the driveshaft with every tap to ensure it's coming out evenly.
- Once out of the splines it will have plenty of room to come out near the transfer case.
Attached below is the splines on my driveshaft. Other then a slight amount of rust they look brand new and very dry. Any grease recommendations?
Attachment 80737
I'll be ordering new Cardone axles later today.
Left part#: 669255
Right part#: 669256
If anyone has any other ideas what could be causing the clunking let me know, Thanks! |
Dow Corning Molykote BR2 Plus
That's the best grease for E30 325iX transfer case splines. Regular CV grease washes out, and then the splines strip. E53 transfer cases are definitely not as vulnerable as the E30's, but that's what I'd use regardless.
11-10-2022, 09:41 AM
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