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  #41  
Old 10-01-2021, 09:01 PM
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I tape a piece of wood on the front of the tire bulge to judge the offest. You can make the front shims fatter to compensate for narrower track before wrapping strings
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  #42  
Old 10-02-2021, 02:24 PM
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UPDATE:

I worked on this all last night and I think I figured out what happened.

I took off both of my rear wheels and just inspected more closely everything going on. The telling part to me looked to be the guide link that controls the toe. It looked at the rubber bushing area not to be as "straight" as the right side. Meaning the rubber bushing at the end of the guide link that goes into the subframe was cantered pretty badly and appeared to be putting excess stress on it. Also, I noticed that the swing arm appeared to be closer to the subframe at an edge than the other side which might have made it bind a little bit. At this point I decided to hook up some gauges and get my level gauge measurement off the face of the brake rotor (this isn't super accurate because the wheel is off, but at least give me a good idea). Loosening the bushes in the swing arm, I noticed that even tho they were "tight," they loosened up on the fastener pretty easily. Great... -_-

So in essence, it appears the two adjustments shifted quite extensively. Because of the shift, the swingarm dropped down from the eccentric bolts--which is why I think my ride height was off 3/4". I'm going to re-measure the ride height and see how much difference it made. I'll report back.
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  #43  
Old 10-02-2021, 03:23 PM
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Some of those fasteners are spec'd to close to 200 ft·lb a value easily missed without proper torque tools. Not sure if any apply to your situation but i would probably loosen and re torque everything.

Also I would maybe double check the little level as the photo didn't look like 4° to me but I never saw a from the back photo that can be measured in Photoshop.

Sounds like you're well on the way to resolution though.
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  #44  
Old 10-02-2021, 03:41 PM
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It's good that after 40 posts you finally take the back wheels off to have a look.
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  #45  
Old 10-02-2021, 03:47 PM
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7, 18 are the adjustable joints,

16, "A-D" are not.

If any aren't centered that's usually a sign the bushing is quite shot.


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  #46  
Old 10-02-2021, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Some of those fasteners are spec'd to close to 200 ft·lb a value easily missed without proper torque tools. Not sure if any apply to your situation but i would probably loosen and re torque everything.

Also I would maybe double check the little level as the photo didn't look like 4° to me but I never saw a from the back photo that can be measured in Photoshop.

Sounds like you're well on the way to resolution though.
From the photo, what were you measuring about in terms of degrees?

Also...I need to look up what the torque spec is for the rear. Ooofta...

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Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
It's good that after 40 posts you finally take the back wheels off to have a look.
Hahaha...I jacked up the rear end multiple times and crawled under the vehicle too. But yeah...takes a while, huh?
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  #47  
Old 10-02-2021, 05:06 PM
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I have a hard time understanding trying to ballpark alignment. When you are done it should be professionally aligned anyway. It takes about an hour. The cost is not that much and many will check it and adjust it if needed at no cost for a year. I don't even go to any alignment shop. I go to the same one and the same guy who has the latest greatest alignment equipment.
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  #48  
Old 10-02-2021, 05:50 PM
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Ballpark is to get it in range of final adjustment. It's pointless to guess if you have a broken ball joint that won't allow adjusting then you need to do it twice.

You can tell pretty easily if you can get it to swing ± your desired value also it's very nice to have it close to zero toe for the drive to the shop on your new $1200 tires.
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  #49  
Old 10-02-2021, 06:33 PM
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Spirited Drive -- Now rear Camber Negative


Picture taken from 30' behind car and lined up directly behind left tire. Camera horizontal lined up with tailgate seam. The red line between 88 and 89° (stupid camera app doesn't do tenths).

In Photoshop can measure to .01°.

Best way to get a quick reality check if your camber is out of whack.


Notice that with 1.5° camber tire wear is edge to edge even. Because the toe is near zero.
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  #50  
Old 10-02-2021, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Ballpark is to get it in range of final adjustment. It's pointless to guess if you have a broken ball joint that won't allow adjusting then you need to do it twice.

You can tell pretty easily if you can get it to swing ± your desired value also it's very nice to have it close to zero toe for the drive to the shop on your new $1200 tires.
You must have to drive a long way to get to the alignment shop.
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