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#11
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I am not saying you do or don't but the central lock/hazard button often breaks from the bottom of the button assembly. You need to unlock the car, but when you can, test to see if the hazard light button works..If not, remove the switch assembly and super glue the broken base back together. I think you may have to break a window. I would figure out the easiest /cheapest piece of glass to replace (the smallest might not be it) and let it rip. Removing the battery from your (aftermarket) key fob likely un-synched it with the car's locking system. This is one reason why I lose sleep if I don't have two working keys for each of my cars. Good luck |
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#12
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Looks like the "experiment" cleared up some misconceptions.
The central locking system(FZV) and anti-theft alarm siren system (DWA) is controlled by the GM/GM III. The manual locking procedure for the driver's door (when using the door lock cylinder under power) is carried out over the P-bus by way of the door module to the GM/GMII. When using the remote fob...the 315MHz RF (radio frequency) signal is sent from the remote fob, to the FZV aerial in the rear (left) cargo window...then onto the FZV amp/receiver...then onto the GM/GM III where the signal is then sent to lock/unlock and arm/disarm the vehicle over the P-bus. As already mentioned...starting the car is carried out by EWS...which is a separate system that uses a 125 KHz AM signal...where the remote fob, Ring Antenna, EWS control module, and ECU/DME are all communicating with each other and verifying that an encrypted ISN (individual serial number) matches. Below is some BMW tech info that shows the location of some of the components and explains the mechanical disconnection that occurs when the vehicle is "double-locked" versus "single-locked". {location of FZV antenna for BMW Tourings & SAVs}
{E53 X5 FZV amp/receiver location}
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#13
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I'd suggest to the OP that:
1. Get the real key from BMW for ~ $250. 2. Fix the door cylinder system too. Or could be the actuator issue.
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
#14
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Quote:
https://www.thebmwminipartstore.com/ is the place to go for OEM keys, and I think the full-featured OEM fob is less than $250...maybe $180? Last edited by Effduration; 10-04-2021 at 05:39 PM. |
#15
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I'm just waiting on lockout kit to arrive to try the procedure for unlock with the central lock button and door handles. I've seen searching around that you've aided in tons of these situations, given my set of circumstances do you think that this will work in my case? I think the tech tried engaging the hazards and I don't think they went on. Is it possible that switch has malfunctioned? |
#16
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#17
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You should be able to use a simple hacksaw blade. Put a thin piece of.steel between the rubber and either the door or the cylinder holder. The rubber gasket will be destroyed.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#18
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Quote:
I think you'll find sawing through the screw may not be very difficult and the easiest way in.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#19
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Happy to report I have gotten into the vehicle.
None of the aforementioned sequences of double lock disengagement were of use to me as I wasn't able to reach the central locking button from the outside, so I can't comment on their effectiveness in this scenario. User "oldskewel" sent me some insights from his experience with a similar situation and I was able to replicate the process for myself. For the safety of all bmw's out there I probably won't post is here for wandering eyes, but if someone sees this in the future and needs help please feel free to reach out and I'll be happy to pay it forward. Really cool to know there's a community of helpful individuals here. |
#20
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Great you are in. Order the lock cylinder fix and a genuine key if you can't sync your knock off.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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double-lock, lockout |
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