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#51
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Anyone find a thicker guibo that would do the same thing? Or an alternative spacer for similar money?
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2000 e39 M5 Titanium on Black 2006 e53 M54 Titanium on Black 2007 e83 Black on Black Sport pkg 2004 Avalanche 2500 lifted 4.88 gears 1994 jacked up Jeep 1995 4 door Yukon 1987 GMC lifted short bed on tons |
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#52
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Quote:
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Dave S. Northeast 2003 4.6is 2005 E53 4.4 2003 E39 Msport(a REAL ONE!) 1959 Fiat 600 |
#53
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'06 X5 3.0i - bought @143,123 miles (12/26/20) |
#54
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Anyone got a link for a reputable ebay seller?
Got my driveshaft out so would be a good time to replace it. Looks like nothing will be shipping out of Russia anymore anytime soon lol |
#55
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Just get the longer driveshaft from cobra transmission. Going through with spacers or welding yourself is just a waste of time when you can buy a properly built driveshaft.
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#56
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That would be foolish. Longer drive shaft is $400, the spline part is only $70. Cutting and welding is 30 min job tops...
Found a good seller with lots of units sold and lots of reviews https://www.ebay.com/itm/22354572037...mis&media=COPY |
#57
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Quote:
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Dave S. Northeast 2003 4.6is 2005 E53 4.4 2003 E39 Msport(a REAL ONE!) 1959 Fiat 600 |
#58
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The biggest problem and the reason that this thread got so long is because nobody actually showed any pictures. So for everything that's been said, lots of people, myself included until recently, don't really understand how this extended spline is supposed to be attached.
Of course if it was one flat piece welded to another flat piece, there would be cause for concern about making the cut perfectly straight and making the weld perfect. But the thing is, you cut off the old spline, then there's a hole in the driveshaft. You insert the new spline into it (tight fit) and weld it. That's it, not really a way to screw anytning up. Since this part is not really shown, it might confuse people. I'll definitely make a video on this. |
#59
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I've seen both videos and detailed step by step photos of the kits you weld on new spline. Add mentioned the kit is self centering on a hollow tube so Abt competent welder should not have a problem.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#60
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Quote:
You want a pretty good idea of how much additional spline you can get in there without having to back off the case to get the new driveshaft in. Then chop off the old splines and fit the new piece to the drive shaft end. Mine was a very tight fit so I tapped with a hammer and block, test fitted, but more, test fitted, etc. until I got them in just enough to where I could install the shaft with a bit of wiggle room to spare. I was conservative and looked to undershoot each time because the fit was very tight and it would have been thought to work the splines back out of the shaft if I tapped them in too far. I recall I ended up with an extra 3/4 inch maybe of splines? The OE dust diver does sit a bit further forward, but I packed everything with a ton of good grease and work more in there whenever the car is in the air. Mark it just in case your welder dislodges them somehow, but like I said, mine was a very tight fit. A friend welded it up and and cleaned the bead with an angle grinder and you’re done. No balancing needed for me and I’ve put thousands of highway and much less improved road miles on it in the past couple years.
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Current Original owner 2002 E53 X5 4.4i to 4.6i swap 1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner 2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife Former 1972 Audi Fox 1986 Saab 900S 1996 BMW Z3 1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan 2004 BMW E46 M3 2006 Audi A3 Quatro Last edited by Henn28; 08-19-2023 at 11:59 AM. |
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