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  #11  
Old 04-12-2022, 05:44 PM
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simple problem becomes bigger, due to an idiot at a tire shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by X5chemist View Post
... it will get a long breaker bar and one socket in the spare tire area. An old aluminum jack handle serves as add on cheater bar.
Now that I KNOW that it's left to loosen, I can soak the hub face with WD40 overnight, then attack it with more confidence. Left, left, left....

I'll try using my 1/2 corded impact again, though I suspect it doesn't have enough beans left after 25 years of usage.
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If my impact won't remove the bolts, then I'll try my breaker bar (if I remember where I put it) with a two foot pipe extension over it. After that, I'll have to either get creative (my Chevelle's pinion nut took two guys jumping on a five foot extension to crush the sleeve), or perhaps it's time to get another impact. My cordless Milwaukee 1/4" won't suffice, but I can't justify getting its' big brother, a Milwaukee 1/2" impact, since I'll never need it again, probably (I torque my wheels properly, by hand).

I'm glad I have multiple spare vehicles, since even a lug bolt removal becomes a big deal on this X5 (I can guarantee that whoever put on these wheels used an impact set to max...idiot).
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'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01)
topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau,
my new favorite project car

Plus four GM vehicles, Daily Drivers, and modified trucks for hauling & camping:
3 Chevys:
'09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L,
'08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L,
'04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab
+ a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab

- and 19 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 56 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project")
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  #12  
Old 04-12-2022, 09:43 PM
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Air impacts are not created equal. A few will really tighten stuff down. My tool box has a GenIII Ridgid 1/2" cordless. 325 ft/lbs or so of force. It would not take nuts off an '08 Tahoe. We even tried an air impact at full power. It didn't work either. Only my longest breaker bar and an old aluminum jack handle broke them loose. I thought the breaker bar was going to break. Good thing my friend never had a flat somewhere. There was no way he could have taken the lugs off with a standard GM crowbar. I told him, break them all loose and tighten them again. It's crazy to have lugs on so tight.

What's the lug spec? I carry my 1/2" impact on road trips. Ridgid now has a stronger 1/2" cordless ones. I may upgrade mine and get the compact 1/2" for smaller jobs.
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  #13  
Old 04-12-2022, 10:14 PM
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Yeah that impact won't break those free. I am quite sure the lugs were over torqued. Tire iron with Jack handle best idea. 1/2" breaker with a jack handle/pipe next best (tire iron doesn't have the weak point of the breaker bar).

If over torqued enough they will be damaged and I would replace them.

I found a good source for some very nice e53 style lugs (with the captive cone washer that went away on the e70). I damaged some of mine using as hub pulling devices.

I have a 12v Milwaukee that will remove any lug that's not over torqued but about 2/3 of lugs are. I regularly re-torque family lugs so they have hope changing a tire.

I've done some creative lug removal over the years including using an old school bumper jack as the "pipe" and also driving a car in such a way to leverage the tire iron against the ground to break a stubborn lug.

My newest m18 impact claims 1400 but torque test channel measured just under 700 ftlb. That's enough to stretch any bolt under about 7/8".

I once stretched a 1/2" bolt so fast it looked like it was made off lead.
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  #14  
Old 04-12-2022, 11:28 PM
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BTW, the correct torque on these is 140Nm
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  #15  
Old 04-12-2022, 11:52 PM
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I had to drill out the bolts on my wife's E83 the first time I removed them. After trying a new air impact with 155 lbs. of air pressure and splitting the impact socket, I drove it to my friendly local tire store and they couldn't get 'em to budge either. As you can imagine, this took awhile...

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AM.
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  #16  
Old 04-13-2022, 12:01 AM
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it's always something unexpected

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
...I found a good source for some very nice e53 style lugs (with the captive cone washer that went away on the e70). I damaged some of mine using as hub pulling devices....
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I suppose that I should get 20+ new lug bolts, even if only a few are damaged, but at $8 each (at FCPEuro), that's a lot of cash outlay for someone else's screw-up. Makes me mad as hell...I've never over-tightened any in 50+ years wrenching).
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However, several members of my old car repair & drag race club had a tendency to over-tighten everything, so I'm used to collateral damage that they did to my cars/trucks/trailers when I wasn't looking. Eventually, I quit leaving my stuff in the shop where we all worked on our stuff, not trusting their "helpful" assistance.

andrewwynn where did you find tose lug bolts? I'm seriously considering Amazon cheapies as replacements, just until I can get the real thing (assuming that I can remove any of the wheels!).
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I'll have to wait and see (and measure) any lug bolt that comes free, so I'll know the actual dimensions, before I order any replacements. And, I'm getting more impact sockets, since my metric sockets are all cheap Chinesium chrome.
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'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01)
topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau,
my new favorite project car

Plus four GM vehicles, Daily Drivers, and modified trucks for hauling & camping:
3 Chevys:
'09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L,
'08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L,
'04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab
+ a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab

- and 19 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 56 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project")
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  #17  
Old 04-13-2022, 12:10 AM
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for BMW e53 (05-06) wheel Lug Bolt Black OEM new (x5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ABAKFS6...ing=UTF8&psc=1

$30 for 5. I paid $26 price is a little higher.

Caveat: I think they had 17mm head similar to newer models but my lug socket set includes 19 and 17. So I ended up with 17 front and 19 rear but had the nice lugs with the swivel cone that doesn't wear the wheel every off/on cycle.

The e70 no longer has the nice lugs. It has lugs like the cheapo you linked. If I can find fine pitch with the captive cone washer I would love to upgrade.
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  #18  
Old 04-13-2022, 12:17 AM
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Bapmic 20PCS Wheel Lug Bolts 14x 1.5 Lug Studs Compatible for BMW E65 E66 745 750 760 E83 X3 (Pack of 20) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1S863M...A5873RSPJTSV4F

I would be ok with something like this.
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  #19  
Old 04-13-2022, 12:23 AM
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ridiculous question

Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
BTW, the correct torque on these is 140Nm

Which is about 103 ftlb. I round to 100 with torque stick then I follow up with torque wrench after driving a bit usually 50-100 miles.

This is an example of grossly over torqued BMW lug bolt.




M14-1.5 10.9 bolt standard torque is 202 Nm. So the 140 has a safety factor against stretch of 44%, however it's very easy with power tools to go over that number (as evidenced by the bolt I'm holding above). Do not ever "ugga dugga" without a torque stick!
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 04-13-2022 at 12:33 AM.
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  #20  
Old 04-13-2022, 02:50 PM
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success

I was seriously unsure about which direction would remove the lug bolts, so I just knew that I would surely twist off the head of at least one bolt, if not for finding out that BMW actually did something "normal" as compared to other manufacturers.

After letting the WD40 soak in overnight (thru several rainstorms), I resumed my hunt for my missing breaker-bar, which was at the bottom of my truck box. Once equipped, I finally removed the wheel, using the 15" breaker bar with a 36" chrome-moly tube over it. The bolts came loose when the total length was about 33" (9" of the tube overlapping 9" of the breaker bar handle). After loosened, they spun off easily, with the T-bar lug wrench.

The bolts weren't deformed or rusted, and all five have the plastic collar intact, but I had to use a 5 lb. dead-blow hammer to free the wheel from the hub (due to corrosion).
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I couldn't find any sign of leakage anywhere on tire or wheel, the valve stem core is tight, and no soap bubbles appear even though I sprayed the entire wheel & tire, inside and out.

So, I am leaving it off this afternoon, inflated to 50 psi, and will see if the pressure rises (due to heating in the sun) or falls (a leak). If I locate a leak, I'll get it repaired, as the four tires are fairly new, and have worn evenly.

I'm glad the breaker-bar and tube method worked, as I was about to get an air impact, just to see if that would do the trick. But my air compressor's specs are not great, so I probably couldn't get a good impact, or maybe any at all, that would've worked.
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After the tire leak mystery is solved, I'll go to each wheel in succession, follow the same procedure, and remove and retorque each wheel properly (after cleaning the hubs/wheel center of corrosion, and lubricating the hubface and bolt threads with WD40 (I never use anti-seize on wheel stud/nuts/bolts, just on sparkplug threads ...disimilar metals corrosion).
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'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01)
topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau,
my new favorite project car

Plus four GM vehicles, Daily Drivers, and modified trucks for hauling & camping:
3 Chevys:
'09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L,
'08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L,
'04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab
+ a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab

- and 19 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 56 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project")

Last edited by workingonit; 04-13-2022 at 05:06 PM.
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