Replacing the Lens on Adaptive HIDs

[Homerlovesbeer]

I think I found why your Angel eyes didn't fit. From the Ebay description "LED Cotton Light Angel Eyes DRL Halo Kit For BMW 5 Series E53 X5 1999-2003 Auto Cars Headlight Accessories Retrofit"

[miloh]

Resurrecting this thread. I’ve completed morimoto d2s installed projectors and am at the stage of needing to clear coat. Does anyone have recommendations in Austin TX for a business or person who can do that. I know I could try to do it but I’d prefer to bring it to someone who sands, uses a sprayer, knows how to make it look good. They’re those fresh chinese plastic lenses.

Also, there’s a guy on ebay, xenonhl i bought them from. He does wire refurbishment and lens replacements. I reached out and he was able to supply me the set with the lenses removed, the channel completely in tact. I spoke with him go over an hour and he apparently has a guy who uses a 3d printer and laser to disintegrate the lens and remove all of the seal in the channel without destroying the channel. Highly recommend reaching out or checking out his refurb options.

[miloh]

Jerry rigging. These now have PPF on them, morimoto butyl tape for the weather channel. I made a "heat chamber" using two paper bags, a hole cutout and a hair dryer which worked perfectly. Once it's not 30 degrees next week I'll rip off my bumper and install them.

[miloh]

A couple more pictures. The morimoto d2s 5.0 projector, state of the ppf, the channel at the top and the butyl. The white spots on the ppf are from a warning label on the bungee cord that distintegrated..

[X5chemist]

Sweet! I'll refinish a set as soon as it's warm too.
Can't wait to see the final install.

[miloh]

They're installed i'll take some pics in a sec. However I'm getting an itermittent error: 00003F AHL: signals fault to light switch center. Passenger side headlight pivots up/down ok, left/right it goes to the extreme right and clicks past the limit until it gives up. Headlight switch flashes green light. Clear faults, no return, no flashing green light, same behavior. I'm considering three things right now: I was deep inside the headlights to do the projector replacement and removed the circular pcb board which I assume is the alignment guides. It rained recently and they fogged up inside meaning my seal was not complete enough. The modules on the bottom are from the donor headlights and not my originals, which I still have and were known good boards.

They need to come off, that I know. Does anyone have constructive ideas on testing? I'm thinking a baseline plan of attack:
- disconnect new, connect old, see if fault exists on passenger side
- remove bumper, remove new, swap sides, see if fault moves to drivers side
- swap modules, see if fault follows modules
- all else fails, bake at 200F for 7 minutes and serve while warm

and they need leveling with the white hex adjusters, but I gotta get the auto level figured out first. I searched ISTA for some sort of LCM or auto level "current data" operation/thing to run and didn't find any. My INPA is busted for some reason and my laptop is slow as balls. So I ordered a crappy 128GB SSD for this diag laptop. What a situation lol. They're loads better, especially once they're aimed correctly. Clear cutoff and a beautiful blue edge

[X5chemist]

Dang! The lights look great!

[g300d]

That looks good! New lenses really clean up the car!

How were the inner headlight harnesses? When I did my lenses they were flaking insulation. Could be what's causing your codes.

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by miloh

They're installed i'll take some pics in a sec. However I'm getting an itermittent error: 00003F AHL: signals fault to light switch center. Passenger side headlight pivots up/down ok, left/right it goes to the extreme right and clicks past the limit until it gives up. Headlight switch flashes green light. Clear faults, no return, no flashing green light, same behavior. I'm considering three things right now: I was deep inside the headlights to do the projector replacement and removed the circular pcb board which I assume is the alignment guides. It rained recently and they fogged up inside meaning my seal was not complete enough. The modules on the bottom are from the donor headlights and not my originals, which I still have and were known good boards.

They need to come off, that I know. Does anyone have constructive ideas on testing? I'm thinking a baseline plan of attack:
- disconnect new, connect old, see if fault exists on passenger side
- remove bumper, remove new, swap sides, see if fault moves to drivers side
- swap modules, see if fault follows modules
- all else fails, bake at 200F for 7 minutes and serve while warm

and they need leveling with the white hex adjusters, but I gotta get the auto level figured out first. I searched ISTA for some sort of LCM or auto level "current data" operation/thing to run and didn't find any. My INPA is busted for some reason and my laptop is slow as balls. So I ordered a crappy 128GB SSD for this diag laptop. What a situation lol. They're loads better, especially once they're aimed correctly. Clear cutoff and a beautiful blue edge

I love it it looks great!

If I said it looked bad, would you let me have them?

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