x5 e53 3.0d facelift - air filter replacement

[omodos]

Ok I came across this a last night, wish I'd seen in earlier, bit of a mission to remove the damn thing from the diesels but vid seems good albeit in russian, but hey pictures in this case vid says a thousand words..


https://youtu.be/rx7qcNBG7gw

[Spartan]

That was a good find, I never knew about removing the intake housing for the interior vents.

[omodos]

Originally Posted by Spartan

That was a good find, I never knew about removing the intake housing for the interior vents.

No worries this chap is pretty thorough, you should see his vids on detailing engine, IF i had the time maybe, but alas got nooo time for such niceties

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Spartan

That was a good find, I never knew about removing the intake housing for the interior vents.

I doubt you could change the air filter without removing the vent housing...

*edit* Watched the video and realised they are removing an additional RHS section of the firewall. Yeah, that DOES make thing a bit easier!!

[Spartan]

Do you think it is worth getting a washable type airfilter as opposed to the dry replacement type? This is the prices currently and post is +$14.00 for under $99.00 orders.


I've had K&N in my Verada Sports and RYCO O2 Rush in the Territory and both improved fuel economy and performance, especially when paired up with a less restrictive exhaust.

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by Spartan

Do you think it is worth getting a washable type airfilter as opposed to the dry replacement type? This is the prices currently and post is +$14.00 for under $99.00 orders.


I've had K&N in my Verada Sports and RYCO O2 Rush in the Territory and both improved fuel economy and performance, especially when paired up with a less restrictive exhaust.

In this case you won't gain anything with a washable filter. Mann is OEM and usually works well the ~100 tkm service life (not restricting even on M57 engines tuned upto 400 hp).

[Spartan]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

In this case you won't gain anything with a washable filter. Mann is OEM and usually works well the ~100 tkm service life (not restricting even on M57 engines tuned upto 400 hp).

For the price of the Mann it would be 300,000 km I would have to drive to equal the K&N (roughly). I can't see me driving that far in my remaining life in this wreck of a human body The military has trashed me good an proper.


Cheers for the info, I'll go the OEM way then.

[workingonit]

I've used K&N filters for many years (since the '80's??), especially on my old drag race car (even the top air-cleaner plate was a K&N filter). I needed as much airflow as possible, as I was using either a 1053 cfm modified Holley 4150 double-pumper carburetor (retro class racing), or an 1150 cfm Holley 4500 Dominator (bracket racing, no carburetor restrictions). Of course, each carb had its' own matching intake manifold; the air cleaner had a switchable-sized base to fit the different-sized carburetors.

Since between-race maintenance was always done, the K&N filter(s) were cleaned no matter which set-up was chosen, and completely serviced every other race date.

However, using/cleaning/servicing oiled K&N filter elements on my street cars and trucks was not a normal ritual, as it was on the race car. At first, I was meticulous, especially if the car/truck was new (or new-to-me), or if the engine/carb/intake was fresh. But, familiarity breeds contempt, and complacency sets in. Or, "out-of-sight/out-of-mind" just forgetting to do the maintenance on a daily driver, when your focus is on your new(er) project car.

Such was the case with my last K&N air filter, in my '04 Chevy 2500HD. It was seldom driven (mainly set-up as my trailer-hauling camping vehicle), maybe up to 4 months between uses, as I had retired, and had other vehicles to drive. I once went over a year between even looking at the filter, much less re-oiling it.

So, last year, after accidently over-oiling the K&N element, in a hurry to leave on a 500 mile camping trip, I experienced some SES codes, due to excess oil making its' way from the filter to the MAF. Suspecting that was the problem, I grabbed a paper filter element and a can of MAF sensor cleaner at an Autozone on the way to camp, replaced and cleaned the parts, cleared the codes, and finished my drive, as good as new.

It wasn't my first adverse experience with an oiled K&N. I drove my old '86 S-10 extended cab on a long trip to S.Texas (beaches, sandy back-roads), without carrying cleaning/oiling supplies for the K&N. After a couple of weeks of kicking up a lot of dust & sand, my engine was not as peppy as usual (or as peppy as a 125 hp, 2.8L V6 could be). I found the K&N to be rather clogged with dirt, and bought a paper filter to replace it. I did clean & resume using the K&N for years afterwards, until the truck was T-boned and scrapped. I had two later trucks, where the K&N was the only filter I ever used, without trouble (both were pre-MAF sensor era trucks, though).

Lesson learned: for max airflow, a K&N would be my choice, if you're willing to maintain it. If not, get a paper element air filter.

[Spartan]

Some good points there workingonit. I too am retired as well as bloody tired. I think I fit the category of fit and forget until something jolts the brain.



Unless we are touring with the Van behind, I probably do less than 10,00km a year now.



I am going to make a slight modification to the exhaust which could extract the gasses better. That rear muffler design on the diesel was made by a plumber who still thinks the "S" bend is legal.


Thank you for your thought and input. They certainly do match up with mine as I recollect.