Home Forums Articles How To's FAQ Register
Go Back   Xoutpost.com > BMW SAV Forums > X5 (E53) Forum
Fluid Motor Union
User Name
Password
Member List Premier Membership Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring....
Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-23-2022, 01:51 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Utah
Posts: 41
Explorerlyon is on a distinguished road
CCV Hose Collapsed-and Need Help Attaching oil separator Hose

2003 BMW x5 4.4

1. One of the CCV hoses completely collapses when the engine is running. When I pull the dipstick, I can feel a lot of suction. I plan to replace the CCV diaphragm only (edit: and hoses). Given the hose is collapsing and has lots of suction, should I be looking at other issues? The hose is very soft so it doesn't take much to collapse but concerned there is too much suction. Any reason to replace the entire CCV instead of just the diaphragm?

2. Hose #9 that attached to the bottom of the oil separator I wanted to check and replace (see lots of posts where this hose goes bad or gets plugged). How in the heck do you get to the connection where that hose attaches to the tube back to the oil pan? I cannot even see the clamp it's so hidden.
Attached Images
 

Last edited by Explorerlyon; 08-23-2022 at 05:02 PM.
Reply With Quote

Sponsored Links

  #2  
Old 08-23-2022, 03:02 PM
Henn28's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 714
Henn28 is on a distinguished road
Can’t say why the hose is collapsing, except perhaps it sounds like the system is plugged at the other end somehow. I’m not sure how too much suction could be created by the system. You could put a vacuum gauge on it. Or just throw a new separator, hoses and valve on it as the parts aren’t too expensive for a full refresh of the system. Especially because you may need to do some disassembly just to do the small hose if you aren’t Stretch Armstrong.

As far as connecting number 9…it’s a full on PITA. Pull the cowl first and see if that gives you enough room to maneuver. Lube up the hose end and the end of the pipe, and use a long, long offset pliers to wiggle the hose onto the return tube. If not you could pull the intake, which will give you more room, and allow you to replace hose 12 too. Mine had disintegrated on the motor I pulled from my X5. Just be careful not to break the nipple off (by “13”) where it attaches. I was able to drill the hole out slightly and JB Weld the nipple back after I snapped it off by not being careful.

You could also try to unbolt them separator from the back of the intake (might as well replace it at this point) and see if it is easier to attach hose 10 with the separator loose. Then you could reattach it and connect the top hoses.
__________________
Current
Original owner 2002 E53 X5 4.4i to 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro

Last edited by Henn28; 08-23-2022 at 03:13 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-23-2022, 04:51 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Utah
Posts: 41
Explorerlyon is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henn28 View Post
Can’t say why the hose is collapsing, except perhaps it sounds like the system is plugged at the other end somehow. I’m not sure how too much suction could be created by the system. You could put a vacuum gauge on it. Or just throw a new separator, hoses and valve on it as the parts aren’t too expensive for a full refresh of the system. Especially because you may need to do some disassembly just to do the small hose if you aren’t Stretch Armstrong.

As far as connecting number 9…it’s a full on PITA. Pull the cowl first and see if that gives you enough room to maneuver. Lube up the hose end and the end of the pipe, and use a long, long offset pliers to wiggle the hose onto the return tube. If not you could pull the intake, which will give you more room, and allow you to replace hose 12 too. Mine had disintegrated on the motor I pulled from my X5. Just be careful not to break the nipple off (by “13”) where it attaches. I was able to drill the hole out slightly and JB Weld the nipple back after I snapped it off by not being careful.

You could also try to unbolt them separator from the back of the intake (might as well replace it at this point) and see if it is easier to attach hose 10 with the separator loose. Then you could reattach it and connect the top hoses.
Thanks. I pulled the cowl and laid down on top of the engine to look down the backside. I cannot see where #9 connects to the return tube. I assume there is a clamp? Or...it is just a push on fitting? The new #9 hose I ordered shows hose clamps on both ends? I am starting to think I may just have to pull the intake.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-23-2022, 06:44 PM
Henn28's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 714
Henn28 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Explorerlyon View Post
Thanks. I pulled the cowl and laid down on top of the engine to look down the backside. I cannot see where #9 connects to the return tube. I assume there is a clamp? Or...it is just a push on fitting? The new #9 hose I ordered shows hose clamps on both ends? I am starting to think I may just have to pull the intake.
The short hose just pops onto the metal line that returns oil to the pan and is secured by hose clamps at either ends. Once you get the hose on, the clamps can be turned so that you can get to them with a driver or screw driver, if I recall. The top of the hardline actually is bolted to the head and can be unbolted at the top to allow a little flex in it. I found mine unbolted when I pulled the motor, probably left that way by a shop that did some work to it years ago.

Pulling the intake makes some things easier, but who knows what you’ll find under there! Also, the whole thing needs to come back together at the same time…in that the head has to go back on at the same time the hoses get reattached. A helper could make the difference.
__________________
Current
Original owner 2002 E53 X5 4.4i to 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-25-2022, 12:11 PM
Premier Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Michigan
Posts: 397
ahlem is on a distinguished road
Can you put something down the middle of the hose that helps align it? Maybe 3/8" bent rod. Then using something like a 1/2" conduit with a washer tack welded to the end, push the hose down.
NAPA has a product called Syl Glide that comes in real handy for moments like this.
__________________
2001 x5 3.0 (sold with broken motor), 1990 e30 M3, 1991 318is, 2002 325i, 2008 335i Dinan stage 3 6 speed,
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-25-2022, 01:02 PM
Henn28's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 714
Henn28 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahlem View Post
Can you put something down the middle of the hose that helps align it? Maybe 3/8" bent rod. Then using something like a 1/2" conduit with a washer tack welded to the end, push the hose down.
NAPA has a product called Syl Glide that comes in real handy for moments like this.
That’s a great idea; I should have realized there was a tool for this.

I was under my car doing the control arms/wishbones yesterday and realized too that it would be very easy to unbolt the return line from the oil pan, and at the top of the line from the head, then pull it up, attach the hoses and bolt it back in. Kind of last resort maybe, but no harder than pulling the intake, and probably easier. The banjo bolt is in plain sight by the starter heat shield with the car in the air and the wheel off. I’d definitely use a new crush washer and be careful re-torquing the banjo. I can’t recall if Bentley has the torque numbers for this one I think, but it is similar to one of the power steering banjos in size, if I recall, and those are in the book.
__________________
Current
Original owner 2002 E53 X5 4.4i to 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro

Last edited by Henn28; 08-25-2022 at 10:26 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-25-2022, 03:15 PM
Premier Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Michigan
Posts: 397
ahlem is on a distinguished road
I used something similar on my 3.0 CCV. It was a 1/2" conduit ~24" long with the end smashed and a 1/4" notch ground into the end. I caught the notch on the metal flap similar to the one between 11 and 13 above. I was able to push that hose onto my dipstick tube with much greater ease than anything else I tried.
__________________
2001 x5 3.0 (sold with broken motor), 1990 e30 M3, 1991 318is, 2002 325i, 2008 335i Dinan stage 3 6 speed,
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-25-2022, 10:28 PM
Henn28's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 714
Henn28 is on a distinguished road
Ar least we can agree that the only place worse to put the ventilation system would be under the timing chain covers…oh, wait…sorry 540 guys.
__________________
Current
Original owner 2002 E53 X5 4.4i to 4.6i swap
1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee - original owner
2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee - the nice car for my wife
Former
1972 Audi Fox
1986 Saab 900S
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
2006 Audi A3 Quatro
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-26-2022, 11:25 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Utah
Posts: 41
Explorerlyon is on a distinguished road
Good news..hose #9 that I was worried about has been previously replaced. I removed the air/oil separator (#1 in the diagram) for better access and could feel the hose was in good shape. I then ran a piece of trimmer line down the hose towards the oil pan...all clear. I am going to leave that hose as is and replace the air/oil separator, along with the two hoses above that collapse.

The CCV...I saw several posts and youtube videos where just the cap with the diaphragm was removed. Mine is different than the cap in those videos and not sure I can just swap the diaphragm and cap. Thoughts?
Attached Images
  
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-28-2022, 10:46 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Utah
Posts: 41
Explorerlyon is on a distinguished road
I ended up just pulling the intake manifold. Should have done that to start with. It really was not that bad removing it and made everything else easier. Found a LOT of oil inside the intake and oil under the intake. Oil was draining out the two weep holes in the back of the valley where coolant leaks out when the valley pan leaks. Ended up replacing:
CCV
Air/oil seperator
Hoses
Intake manifold gaskets.

Hopefully, all is good now.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On





All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:18 AM.
vBulletin, Copyright 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0
© 2017 Xoutpost.com. All rights reserved. Xoutpost.com is a private enthusiast site not associated with BMW AG.
The BMW name, marks, M stripe logo, and Roundel logo as well as X3, X5 and X6 designations used in the pages of this Web Site are the property of BMW AG.
This web site is not sponsored or affiliated in any way with BMW AG or any of its subsidiaries.