What Puller For Front Bearings?

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Henn28

I wonder what the dealer uses for this job? I can’t imagine they don’t use a press to speed the process up.

They use "special tool" 81 64 2 155 744

It also has an adapter to reach though the hub to push and pull the drive axle in/out with hydraulics

https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/b...642155744.html

–awr–

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[cn90]

For those who already replaced the wheel bearing, at what mileage did yours fail?

[andrewwynn]

Most before 150k but they can run 1,000,000 it's not a wear part they get damaged from impact unless there was mfg defect.

Bmw has a TSB that you need to replace any bearing on a wheel that had Impact in an accident because of this.

Pothole strike especially during a curve it curb strike not parking speed are the biggest culprits.

Coincidentally most of my bearing jobs on the right side. I had to do my right front a second time after a Chicago pothole.


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[X5chemist]

Wow, a mobile hydraulic press. Has anyone ever see one? Or used one? Obsolete now. Later models have hubs!

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

Wow, a mobile hydraulic press. Has anyone ever see one? Or used one? Obsolete now. Later models have hubs!

I've only seen in the TIS. I searched to see if for sale: $3100.

People have used the generic equivalent vs. 1" push bolt but they are usually good for only 10T and not going to work on a stuck bearing. Prob ok to install.

Still need to press hub out/in. Unfortunately I'm sure the outboard inner race will still stay on the hub during disassembly.


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[Clavurion]

With that tool part number it only gives the set of adapters. The actual hydraulic press must have a separate number. Anyways the price is astronomical for random use. Anyways a hydraulic press with separate pump part with attached hoses would be more handy than that one with the handle on the actual press. A friend of mine works as industrial maintain leader on mining tool company and once loaned this kind of press from work. Oh boy was it easy to take apart all the bushes on rear axle and subframe. He had the rear subframe blasted and then dip zinc coated and industrial polyurea paint. That E53 rear subframe must be the last one when all others have rusted away.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/81642155744

[andrewwynn]

I may have copied the wrong part number but check out the video of the correct one;

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ing/1Vncs8NL6Y


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[andrewwynn]

744 is the hydraulic unit. The adapter kits are for the push plates and the draw cylinders for pulling the axle spline though.

Something that won't be an issue past the e70 i suspect as my wife's F10 uses the gear teeth that mesh into the back of the hub: a much better solution for future repair as the hub just falls apart once you remove the axle bolt.

Just looked up. F15 still has inner spline. G05 finally switched to outer teeth.


For i suspect the majority that haven't seen the new system here's a drawing.

The inside of the bearing meshes with gear-like teeth on the end of the cv axle and is pulled tight by the axle bolt with simular torque to the axle nut of the older generation.

I've not had to replace a bearing yet on my e70 or F10. Thought one had failed on wife's F10 but was worn tire.

I suspect repair will be like e53 rear where your replace the whole bearing with flange and the only tricks are how to pull the outboard inner race off the hub and press on the bearing.

Actually for the front I'm only seeing complete units with bearing, flange and hub; takes away all the fun.

(Good to know however means no press needed i could do the repair away from home just might get that axle pull tool: as much as I have got away with hammer the shaft though it would be very nice to just pull it through).

–awr–

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[Henn28]

Originally Posted by cn90

For those who already replaced the wheel bearing, at what mileage did yours fail?

Just did my front bearings at 175k mi. But the job was just "while I was in there" work. The bearings were fine, but I couldn't pull the stripped torx head bolts holding the failed upper control arm ball joints. The bolt heads rounded over and I couldn't get to them with a reverse thread extractor, vise grips, etc. so I bought ebay hubs/knuckles, cleaned them up and put new ball joints and bearings in.

If the car is your daily and its still driveable currently, you may want to go this route as you can do it at your own pace. The knuckles were cheap on ebay and you can easily haul them to your local suspension shop to have the old crap pressed out. I pressed the new bearings in myself.

I haven't done the rears, and they seem fine as of 175k.