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  #21  
Old 10-17-2023, 05:49 PM
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if you have the OE sub box, and you are a BIT handy, remove the two 6" "subs" and make a hole to fit a 10" shallow mount sub in there.
I did and absolutely LOVE the sound adn it IS actually quite bassy/loud.

this is what I did and this one is for sale as this was my prototype.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...dId=1525557739
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  #22  
Old 10-17-2023, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clockwork View Post
if you have the OE sub box, and you are a BIT handy, remove the two 6" "subs" and make a hole to fit a 10" shallow mount sub in there.
I did and absolutely LOVE the sound adn it IS actually quite bassy/loud.

this is what I did and this one is for sale as this was my prototype.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...dId=1525557739
Very interesting. Yes, I do have the OE sub box. What 10" shallow mount sub did you install in there? Did you need to add an amp for it?
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  #23  
Old 10-22-2023, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clockwork View Post
if you have the OE sub box, and you are a BIT handy, remove the two 6" "subs" and make a hole to fit a 10" shallow mount sub in there.
I did and absolutely LOVE the sound adn it IS actually quite bassy/loud.

this is what I did and this one is for sale as this was my prototype.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...dId=1525557739
Ok, I removed the two OE 6" subs and got the 10" MB Quart DS1-254. I'm stuck on how to connect it. There're now 8 OE wires (4 from each speaker - 2[+] and 2[-]). Do I just insulate the extra 4 and connect the other 4 to the new sub in the appropriate [+] [-] ports?

Don't know if this matters but I have DSP and Avin4 head unit.
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Last edited by X5only; 10-22-2023 at 03:24 PM.
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  #24  
Old 10-22-2023, 03:21 PM
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I have a 10” shallow mount sub in mine also. I didn’t have the DSP sub so have just used an MDF enclosure that fits into that space.

It’s running off a 500w amp that fits into the cubby hole on the opposite side as I’ve ditched the 6CD changer.

I’ll grab some pics if you’re interested
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  #25  
Old 10-22-2023, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5only View Post
I'm stuck on how to connect it. There're now 8 OE wires (4 from each speaker - 2[+] and 2[-]).

Do I just insulate the extra 4 and connect the other 4 to the new sub in the appropriate [+] [-] ports?
No! That sub is going to require an external amp. Do not bridge any of the wiring either. Driving that sub off of a single DSP ampís sub channel will most definitely stress the channel, and possibly cook it. The amp is 8 ohms, and the MB driver is 4 ohms. Plus, I guarantee there is a substantial power rating difference between the stock driver and the MB driver.


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  #26  
Old 10-22-2023, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy View Post
No! That sub is going to require an external amp. Do not bridge any of the wiring either. Driving that sub off of a single DSP ampís sub channel will most definitely stress the channel, and possibly cook it. The amp is 8 ohms, and the MB driver is 4 ohms. Plus, I guarantee there is a substantial power rating difference between the stock driver and the MB driver.


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Gotcha, thanks. Did my homework and found exactly what to do. Yes, an amp is required. The BavSound instructions below (15 years old ) are detailed and also include tuning. Hope this helps others who may want to do the same.

I've now opted for MB Quart MBQJL-SUBR-1 10" Package, which includes a shallow mount 10" subwoofer and A2-400.1 compact 400-watt mono amplifier. The subwoofer would fit the OE sub box if modified as Clockwork suggests.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ccKi3O...0-Package.html

How to Install BAVSOUND X108 Subwoofer system on E53 X5

Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fljb-VfTLlo
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rBgVzjpDq4
Part 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0uM8FcSb3c
Part 4: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI-L5KQIXIE
Part 5: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJgDrkW5uas
Part 6: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XEL907N6m0
Part 7: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TARBnIsC5X4
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Last edited by X5only; 10-22-2023 at 09:54 PM.
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  #27  
Old 10-23-2023, 12:34 AM
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Hen, did you try installing the powered sub underneath the passenger seat by chance or was the trunk cubby the best optimal spot for your setup?

Surprised you get no rattle
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  #28  
Old 10-23-2023, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Serb404 View Post
Hen, did you try installing the powered sub underneath the passenger seat by chance or was the trunk cubby the best optimal spot for your setup?

Surprised you get no rattle
I donít think it would fit beneath any of the seats. Itís about 10Ē x 15Ē by 3.5Ē ish deep. I canít even tuck my foxwell fully under the pax seat.

The right rear cubby was the logical place for me since it is close to power, the OE amp trigger in the left cubby, and the RCA cable I ran underÖor is it overÖthe headliner specifically for a sub comes down the D pillar and exits into that cubby.

No rattle, but like I mentioned, itís a heavy beast and drops nicely to the bottom of the cubby. Iíve got some ďtemporaryĒ bubble wrap wrapped around the bottom third of the sub, and some in the bottom of the cubby, which helps Iím sure. Frankly though, the longer it is in and sounding great, the less I want to mess with it, beyond cleaning up the wiring at some point and maybe replacing the bubble wrap with some durable thicker single-side tape foam around the bottom of the cubby. It weighs around 15 lbs too, so Iím not sure I could make a bracket secure enough to safely mount it. Iím sure some one more skilled could, however.
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Last edited by Henn28; 10-23-2023 at 09:01 AM.
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  #29  
Old 10-23-2023, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Henn28 View Post
I donít think it would fit beneath any of the seats. Itís about 10Ē x 15Ē by 3.5Ē ish deep. I canít even tuck my foxwell fully under the pax seat.

The right rear cubby was the logical place for me since it is close to power, the OE amp trigger in the left cubby, and the RCA cable I ran underÖor is it overÖthe headliner specifically for a sub comes down the D pillar and exits into that cubby.

No rattle, but like I mentioned, itís a heavy beast and drops nicely to the bottom of the cubby. Iíve got some ďtemporaryĒ bubble wrap wrapped around the bottom third of the sub, and some in the bottom of the cubby, which helps Iím sure. Frankly though, the longer it is in and sounding great, the less I want to mess with it, beyond cleaning up the wiring at some point and maybe replacing the bubble wrap with some durable thicker single-side tape foam around the bottom of the cubby. It weighs around 15 lbs too, so Iím not sure I could make a bracket secure enough to safely mount it. Iím sure some one more skilled could, however.
Ok noted, I'm taking mine in Wednesday to get that Alpine 8in powered sub installed and have been researching an ideal location, some say mounted on the back trunk driver side wall is good too but I don't want to drill any holes.

Did yours come with a little bass controller knob as well? On your radio did you have to turn down your bass a bit and then adjust the powered sub bass accordingly to your liking?

Thanks for clearing up a few of my concerns!
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  #30  
Old 10-23-2023, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serb404 View Post
Ok noted, I'm taking mine in Wednesday to get that Alpine 8in powered sub installed and have been researching an ideal location, some say mounted on the back trunk driver side wall is good too but I don't want to drill any holes.

Did yours come with a little bass controller knob as well? On your radio did you have to turn down your bass a bit and then adjust the powered sub bass accordingly to your liking?

Thanks for clearing up a few of my concerns!
I think it didÖIím not using it though. I really donít know what Iím doing in setting the EQ on my system, but after reading similar advice I flattened the kenwood head unitís EQ, then set its loudness to a mid setting (out of 3 or 4), put the volume up to 2/3 ish, and then monkeyed with the gain on the sub until it sounded good to me. I followed the same technique on the kicker 4 way amp recently after installing it with the new speakers.
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