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#21
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letting the pro shop help out an older DIY mechanic (me)
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I just (today) got my wife's '98 GMC back from a shop where I had them replace rear drum brakes (wheel cylinders, shoes, drums), replace broken/rusted bleeders on the front calipers (pads & rotors still 70%), then replace all the old fluid and powerbleed the system. The truck only gets used 2-4 times a year, and I needed pros to get everything unstuck for me (I can no longer crawl under a truck repeatedly to do the brakes by myself anymore) so it was worth a few hundred to get it done for me (they also had to replace a couple of wheel studs, etc.). The mechanic that handed it back to me said he bled the system three times and wished he could give it a better pedal feel (actually, it feels as it did 20 years ago, so no problem), but it's certainly better than the pedal feel I got after I did much the same procedures on my wife's other car, an '08 Cobalt (it also got a new MC, new front pads and rotors, all done by me). I could not get a totally firm pedal even after using a Motive Products powerbleeder and my NT510 Elite scan tool, multiple times, over three years. I sold the Cobalt last month, and the proceeds paid for the brake work and new tires on the GMC (with some left over $$). If you don't like the pedal feel, by all means get a second opinion. In my opinion, the Cobalt brakes felt good enough, but my wife didn't agree, and I was just about to put it in the pro shop for a second look at my handiwork, when the wife bought a low-mileage (55k miles) '14 Lexus ES350 from an acquaintance/friend of a friend, and I sold the Cobalt within a week. I certainly took advantage of the extra cash to upgrade her truck, so I wouldn't be second-guessed by the wife (who thinks I'm too old to be crawling around in the driveway, on sand and rocks, at my age). She may be right!
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
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#22
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Oh man, I hear you! Well I definitely don’t like the feel because it slowly keeps sinking to the ground when I push the pedal, though the brakes do work. I just said screw it. I’m replacing the parts under warranty and will start again being far more careful than I ever have so that I can rule out the parts. I have been watching videos for the e39 and feel that I need to do a better job bench bleeding and installing. I have the BMW specific Foxwell, I have ISTA, and I have INPA. I should be able to get the right bleeding procedure down. It doesn’t sound like Canadian Tire really knows how to do the proper technique, but then again it could be a faulty MC. I have never had this much of an issue with brakes before but I love my 4.8is!
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2004 4.8is Sapphire Black Metallic, cream/anthracite two-tone interior. |
#23
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lack of luck trumps a lack of skill, perhaps?
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My points of agreement:
So far, I've had no brake problems with the X5, but I would assume that the Foxwell autobleed procedures found in both GM and BMW software has been satisfactorily successful for others prior, and perhaps both you and I were just unlucky when we were trying to bleed our respective brakes.
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
#24
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I think some have said that doing some ABS panic stops has been the trick ??
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1988 325is (purchased new) sold 2004 X5 3.0 2005 X3 2.5 2008 X5 3.0 (new to me) |
#25
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Triggering the ABS isn't a bad strategy, but it's hard to do that extensively enough to get things totally clear. Fun fact: Windows 11 ARM x86 emulation works so well that I can actually run INPA in a VM on an Apple Silicon Mac.
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2011 M3 2006 Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison 2004 X5 3.0i 6MT 1995 M3 S50B32 1990 325is 1989 M3 S54B32 Hers: 1989 325iX 1996 911 Turbo |
#26
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I'm sure you paid 5-10x for your Mac what I did for my laptop, which I sorta regret buying now, but you've got functionality! As Joker said: "Where does he get those wonderful toys?"; I feel the same about my budget devices.
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
#27
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To follow up on this, I spent countless hours bleeding my brakes to no avail. I replaced all the rubber hoses that connect to the calipers (they were showing cracks anyway), I replaced the master cylinder, and I followed the BMW bleed procedure to a "T" several times. If anything, I made it worse. I also observed some weird phenomenons with just getting endless bubbles. More searching forums revealed others who have fought this issue to no avail. A couple people mentioned they had success by wrapping their bleeders with teflon tape. Since one of the weird things that was happening was... after shutting the bleeder, bubbles would continue to flow through the clear hose attached to the bleeder nipple, I considered this. That was a head scratcher that indicated air was somehow getting in the line even with the bleeder shut.
I had little hope, but back up on jackstands she went today. All the wheels removed AGAIN. I started by removing each bleeder nipple and carefully wrapping about 3" of teflon tape around each. I then reinstalled the nipples and ran the BMW bleed procedure as I had before. I have a homemade pressure bleeder, and I ran the bleed procedure in ISTA+ for each wheel separately with the bleeder open. I didn't seem to get many, if any, bubbles out of the rear brakes, but the RF brake had a lot of bubbles. I ran the ISTA procedure a couple of times with 5 brake pedal full pumps following each time. Eventually the bubbles stopped, and I moved on to the LF where I got fewer, but still significant bubbles. I then shut the bleeder and put my foot to the pedal and GLORY BE!!!! we had a firm pedal! Ultimately, the problem was all caused by air leaking around the threads of the bleeders. Intuitively, I seriously doubted that could be my issue, but I was proven wrong for the second time in a decade (sorry, corny dad joke). This problem was really grating on me, as it just shouldn't be this hard to bleed a brake system and get a firm pedal. Anyone need a perfectly good, used master cylinder? ;-) AM.
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E70 2010 3.0 M57 AT Titanium Silver with Black Leather E53 2004 3.0 M54 AT Toledo Blue with Gray Leather E83 2008 3.0 N52 AT Silver Gray Metallic with Black Vinyl E46 1999 2.8 M52TU 5MT Black with Tan Leather 250K+ miles (Sold, but not forgotten) |
#28
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Great follow up it will for sure help somebody
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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