I cannot search, just blank screen So I'll ask nicely

[Spartan]

Hello everyone, I have resurfaced from an arduous task that I seemed to make bigger than the Star Trek series.
As you may know I have been having these strange issues with my E53 diesel, as if it is misfiring. I eventually traced it to an air leak and boy did I get carried away. Still, every vacuum line is renewed, the intake manifold was removed and all seals replaced, the manifold and EGR were decarbonized 100% and the vacuum line to the EGR has a join in it with a small garden fitting that seals the line, thus rendering it inoperable.
Results, well I only got to drive it partially as I then took my wife's Merc W203-C180 and attacked the cam chain. After that I replaced the drivers door as well. So she was driving the BMW for two weeks and getting insane figures for fuel consumption considering her driving style. She was averaging 8.1L per 100k and not a problem with the car. I then drove it for another two weeks before I had a spell in hospital and I managed to improve this by bringing it down to an average of 7.5Lper100k.
Now I am out and back on both feet again, we went for a drive Sat 21st, probably two months since the rebuild of sorts.

We drove 127km one way and it was so pleasant, quiet and power to overtake when I wanted. Day temp was 23c and just fresh air through, no AC needed.
Our destination was reached and the task completed, we turned and headed for home...all was smooth and I had no reason to expect any issues, YET, it happened again. The difference this time was much softer and I actually had time to catch glimpses of the timing of the faults and what the car was doing that caused the problem.


Warning lights are - 4WD and ABS in yellow together.
Occurrence, seems to be either when cornering to the right with combination of braking or harder than a very gentle turn.


The fix to get home - I used the dash code access to reset to default values everything. (The one where you enter the sum total of your VIN digits) This seemed to set the car into a clean mode to drive off once more.


The alternate fix - I just turned off, removed the key waited one minute and then restarted again, the warning lights were out, but the car drove off with some surging effect from the very start and will only travel about 12 km before this warning light combination is triggered again.



Car reaction when warning lights are on - The car will travel a bit further but then gradually it will start to surge more and more harshly. This is almost to the point of engine stalling in one situation, that being a start from a standstill at a stop sign.


In fairness, I have never looked at the ABS rings for cleanliness, I know the disc rotors and pads will be due for replacement soon and I have already replaced the transfer case gear when I had the trifecta light situation.

I have replaced the fuel filter less than 12 months ago and the fact that this is something that happens after "X" amount of time of use does not ring true for that purpose. All the correct sounds for fuel pump are there, even after getting home, I checked and you can hear the pump by placing a tube to your ear and onto the tank.
The car starts and idles first time and every time, so apart from me getting ISTA on my other laptop, which is very shortly. I am asking this question here and now because I have tried searching several times, but all I get are blank pages.


I could be wrong, but I thought I had read that someone had pulled a fuse and made their X5 into a two wheel drive. is this possible and can it be used to test for any faults in transfer case?


All help greatfully appreciated and saving an E53 from the wrecking mode.

[andrewwynn]

What year?

Clearly x-drive. So you're getting 2/3 if trifecta. Usually when abs sensor is on the fritz you'll get trifecta.

Are you getting pulsing in the brake when you experience the surging?

I've had abs kick in when it wasn't supposed to but it woukd to that a few times before it would disable itself and the car would operate properly just without abs.

4wd and abs no yellow brake feels like transfer case clutch (like fix you performed with actuator gear)

You can confirm TC being involved but pulling the fuse you mentioned. You'd have to Google the correct fuse.

When I did that in the past it made the wipers run continually so if happens on your car you'd want to pull the wiper fuse also.

The theory is: if TC is not allowing enough slip front to rear axle while you corner you're getting binding that's causing the jumpy motion you're describing as surging.

Do you have identical tires all corners and similar about of wear?

[Clavurion]

So you haven't checked the actual trouble codes? With proper diagnostics you could see the wheel speeds are consistent and identical when going straight.

Fuse F46 is purely for VTG module to rule out any transfer case problem. Or unplug the smaller connector (power supply) on VTG module under rear seat.

[andrewwynn]

to track wheel speeds it’s best to use a graph. The numbers are very hard to follow . What you’re looking for is any erratic spike or dip.


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[Spartan]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

What year? 11/2006 3.0d M57 ZF 6spd

Clearly x-drive. So you're getting 2/3 if trifecta. Usually when abs sensor is on the fritz you'll get trifecta. Yes, no third light as yet.

Are you getting pulsing in the brake when you experience the surging? No

I've had abs kick in when it wasn't supposed to but it woukd to that a few times before it would disable itself and the car would operate properly just without abs. Only the surge after a key switch off and restart. If I use the VIN code and number 21 default reset, there is no surging.

4wd and abs no yellow brake feels like transfer case clutch (like fix you performed with actuator gear) Damn, I hope not... I getting to old for this shit LoL!

You can confirm TC being involved but pulling the fuse you mentioned. You'd have to Google the correct fuse. Thx

When I did that in the past it made the wipers run continually so if happens on your car you'd want to pull the wiper fuse also. Bugger!

The theory is: if TC is not allowing enough slip front to rear axle while you corner you're getting binding that's causing the jumpy motion you're describing as surging. That makes sense and of course leads to the next question....

Do you have identical tires all corners and similar about of wear? The two front are one brand and the two rear are a different brand, but they are the correct size as required. All new at time of fitting. I have considered this issue and come up with two possible hypothesis; rolling diameter of brands despite correct size can differ, and rubber compound between brands can vary. I am thinking the rear is a softer compound and is wearing faster.

I thank you kind sir for your vast array of knowledge. It has given me a trail to follow, in fact I still have the other pair of 9" wheels with the tyres still fitted, I may try them on and see what happens. If this resolves the problem, then I will get four new tyres on the staggered rims of the same brand, naturally in the correct sizing.
Refit the two tyres back to the other 9" rims and sell them off.


Cheers, Jeff

[Spartan]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

So you haven't checked the actual trouble codes? With proper diagnostics you could see the wheel speeds are consistent and identical when going straight. My diagnostics scanner barely touches the BMW, I am trying to get hold of ISTA 4.32.1 the last free version as it covers the E53. My last download does not have any .exe so I am sitting with 150gb of

Fuse F46 is purely for VTG module to rule out any transfer case problem. Or unplug the smaller connector (power supply) on VTG module under rear seat. Thank you, I will go with the fuse, pulling out my seat and replacing it is a huge headfark since I had it fitted with Wine Red Nappa leather.

Again I thank you also sir for your contribution, with fuses in almost every corner of the car this is a big help.


Regards, Jeff

[omodos]

@Spartan, I am nowhere near as adept at you with tech and diganosis, but in my experience sticking on 2 used different brand tread up front on my diesel (that takes 235 65 r17 all round) when initially installed, caused 5 mins of weird rumbling akin to driving over a relatively smooth cobbled road (that I wrongly putting do own to having more aggressive treads up front) this behaviour subsided BUT I noticed once when going up a relatively steep incline a shudder@1500rpm sort of like you have gone over a bad patch of road, and was even getting it on coming to a standstill in traffic so at lower revs.

I went purchased 4 new tires identical all good now.

[Spartan]

@Omodos, new tyres are definitely on the list, believe me .


The problem I have been having is identifying the light that comes on at the same time as the 4wd light.


They are both yellow, only two at any time and obviously the same two but the other one is identified as many things depending on whether the car is classified a EU, Can, or ME version. The problem is mine is in Australia and it is not mentioned.


The other light is like a brake light with a question mark in it and only lights yellow. After turning off, you can go out the next day and drive all day or two kilometers. Today I got another two kilometer drive and this time the throttle was locked out, idle was about 1300 rpm but pressing the pedal made no difference. So, I just drifted home with the wind.


Anyone got a clue what I am talking about? Still trying to figure out how to install ISTA, have a legal version but it does not install like normal software as far as I can see. Searching that now.

[Spartan]

OK, I have finally tracked down this warning light combination. It is the 4wd light and the DSC light. No other lights come on.


Today Thursday, I changed the rear wheels back from the staggered size to 9" and I also did a rolling measurement with the front by marking the ground and each tyre. There is a significant rolling distance variation of 2.5cm or about 1".

The Rear tyres have worn down to the safety markers while the front are still like new. This explains the really crappy issue that I suspected with the transfer case.
Also, today after changing the wheels I went out for a drive and the binding clunk and grind was gone on corners, but I only made 2.5km before the warning lights again. This time something new happened, the RPM set to about 1300 (diesel engine) and no response from accelerator at all, even if placed in neutral or park.


One suggestion I was given was to check the speed sensors on the wheels. Anyone have any other ideas?


Thanks everyone for the input so far...Jeff

[EODguy]

Just on the slight chance....

There are two (2) potentiometers in the accelerator pedal and if there's a problem with that the car will not receive any response from the pedal.

Maybe check/clean that out.

I recommend you get a foxwell nt-510 since it can stay in the vehicle and is small, self contained. Right now you are kind of stuck firing the parts cannon costing more than having a scanner with you at all times not just at home.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12403431...3ABFBM2oqsnO1i

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