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#11
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#12
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From my notes, the trick I needed was to remove those E12 screws first, and then the standard ball joint separator that I use on all my cars worked fine.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
#13
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Thanks for the thoughts and advice all. That tool does look like the easy(ier) button for getting those ball joints out. And it’s not BMW specific, which is nice. My general rule is that I won’t buy any more BMW only tools, but rather get my Indy to do whatever the job is. However, I will likely break that rule for the CV boot job I am faced with. The axle seating tool is only $80 ish.
I’ll pick this back up when I end up pulling the ball joints someday. They are only 2 years old so hopefully they will last for a few more years. Who knows tho, I burned through the sway bar links and tension struts I put in 2 years ago way too quickly.
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Current Original owner 2002 E53 X5 4.4i to 4.6i swap 2025 G06 X5 50e Former 1972 Audi Fox 1986 Saab 900S 1996 BMW Z3 1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan 2004 BMW E46 M3 2006 Audi A3 Quatro 1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee |
#14
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That stupid design of lower ball joint held in with two small bolts is ridiculous. A while back I tried to replace one of mine - one bolt snapped and the other rounded off. I ended up drilling right through the hub carrier and used bolts with a nut on the other end. That reminds me, I think one is due for replacement as it’s knocking a bit at low speeds..
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#15
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Current Original owner 2002 E53 X5 4.4i to 4.6i swap 2025 G06 X5 50e Former 1972 Audi Fox 1986 Saab 900S 1996 BMW Z3 1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan 2004 BMW E46 M3 2006 Audi A3 Quatro 1993 Mopar 318 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2015 V6 Jeep Grand Cherokee |
#16
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On a slow speed knock, be sure to also check control arm bushings, the control arm itself and check for rust on the steel pad portion of the front subframe.
I recently discovered that the steel pad on the subframe that supports my front sway bar had rusted through! Time for a new front subframe.... My sway bar had also rusted quite a bit where it enters the bushing and the combination of rust and constant rubbing on the rubber bushing caused my sway bar to shrink in diameter so that it would not fit snuggly in a new bushing. I bought a rust-free, used sway bar and installed it with new bushings. Much better.
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'03 530i - manual swapped - 425k miles '06 325Cic auto 115k '05 X5 3.0 auto 158k '99 E39 528i 5-speed 130k Last edited by Effduration; 02-01-2024 at 11:35 AM. |
#17
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That's what I'd have done. If the "knock" more of a "tap" then check the sway bar links.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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