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Old 05-04-2024, 03:15 PM
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E53 rear prop shaft differences.

Hi all, been a while.

So I'm looking to replace the rear prop on my 2004 E53 3.0d manual six speed.

Can anyone definitively tell me if there is any difference between props, Manual,.
auto, petrol, diesel? Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-04-2024, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane2jz View Post
Hi all, been a while.

So I'm looking to replace the rear prop on my 2004 E53 3.0d manual six speed.

Can anyone definitively tell me if there is any difference between props, Manual,.
auto, petrol, diesel? Thanks in advance.

Put the last seven of VIN into realoem.com and find that part. It will show every other models that use that exact part number.
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Old 07-08-2024, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Put the last seven of VIN into realoem.com and find that part. It will show every other models that use that exact part number.
Thanks Andrew.

Real OEM provided some detail, but not the full story. It gave me two part numbers for the entire rear prop, a superceded part and the prop I had fitted
7 529 661 A103.

So what I've discovered mainly by trial and error is that the rear section of all the props I've found so far are in fact the same length. It appears that the front section of the rear prop is the part that is a different length depending on the transmission/gearbox fitted. Its a very simple job to split the prop into its two halves, just a 18mm head bolt that sits in the centre of the splined yoke and this can be accessed with a flat ring spanner down in the gap in front of the UJ.

Anyone on the search for a used 6sp manual prop, which are like hens teeth over here at least, can simply use a back section from the auto prop which appear to be everywhere for just a few quid and replace the support bearing and guibo on the front half of their own manual prop and away you go.

What a shame its not really practical or economical to replace the UJ on the prop as they have no C clips holding the UJ cups in place, instead they are machine spiked after assembly. I know it can be done but not really in the realms of a back yard muckanik!

Hope this may help someone searching for a cost effective prop repair on a manual 3.0d e53.
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Old 07-08-2024, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Shane2jz View Post
So what I've discovered mainly by trial and error is that the rear section of all the props I've found so far are in fact the same length. It appears that the front section of the rear prop is the part that is a different length depending on the transmission/gearbox fitted. Its a very simple job to split the prop into its two halves, just a 18mm head bolt that sits in the centre of the splined yoke and this can be accessed with a flat ring spanner down in the gap in front of the UJ.
Are you sure the prop rear parts are the same length as different rear differentials are used and the center bearing stays in the same location?
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Old 07-08-2024, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Clavurion View Post
Are you sure the prop rear parts are the same length as different rear differentials are used and the center bearing stays in the same location?
Well that's interesting, and no I didn't know that. But, what I do know is that the localish BMW breakers had no shafts from manual models, only from autos. putting mine side by side to what they had showed only differences in length on the front section of the shaft, from the splined yoke joint to the transfer box. As there was a few there and they had differing lengths on the front section and the same length on the rear section, I assumed the rear sections must all be the same. Maybe I just got lucky then.

Last edited by Shane2jz; 07-10-2024 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 07-08-2024, 11:00 AM
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The vast majority are the same size diffs and therefore same size rear driveshaft sections. As I recall only some LCI were different size diff cases, I think manual 3.0i and maybe 4.8is... both of which are relatively rare
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Old 07-08-2024, 12:07 PM
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I saw a write up where it was the dif that was swapped and the guy modified the diff input to work with the existing rear DS. So even when it's not supposed to work it can.

Also, covered briefly above it's not terrible to cut out the stake points to replace the u joint even "shade tree" level mechanic.
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