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Old 05-22-2024, 03:24 PM
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3.0d, M57 proper coolant bleeding procedure

Hi there guys!

So, on my tractor (M57, 3.0d, 2006, 218ps) I have to change the small coolant hose that goes from EGR thermostat to the main plastic coolant pipe (11537792622).
During that process, I assume, I will lose just a small amount of coolant, but the air will come in, and I will have to conduct the bleeding procedure to get rid of the air pockets. I assume it is possible to do it without flushing all the coolant?

However, since I'm more of an electric guy, I need your help to figure it out how to do it properly. What would be the proper coolant bleeding procedure for the M57 diesel engines?
I was searching the forum and generally online, but I'm stumbling upon various procedures, and mainly videos concerning petrol engines.


Anyway, this is what I found on TIS:

1) Open expansion tank.
2) Start the engine (idle speed) and set the heater to maximum temperature. Set the blower to low setting. This opens the heating valves and sets the auxiliary water pump in operation.
3) Pour coolant into the expansion tank up to max. cold fill level. Allow the engine to run at idle speed until no more coolant needs to be added. (I assume no longer than 5 min?).
4) Rev the engine for a few times (approx. 2500 rpm) to flush the coolant circuit.
5) Switch off the engine, and set the heater to minimum temperature.
6) Wait approx. 3 minutes until the auxiliary water pump in the auxiliary heater ceases to operate.
7) Start the engine again without the heater.
8) Carefully open the expansion tank and top up or draw off coolant at idle speed to max. cold fill level.
9) Close the coolant tank.
10) Take the car for a test drive.

P.S. In steps 5 and 6, I assume that ignition also has to be switched off?
P.P.S. In step 8, why to open the expansion tank if it's already opened?

Does this procedure look okay?

After this, do I need to take the truck for a ride, until it reaches operating temperature (80-87 degrees C), and then to open the top two bleeding screws (one close to the coolant cap, and another on the plastic pipe) until there are no more air bubbles coming out?
If yes, do I do this while the engine is running, or while the engine is switched off?
And, is there proper sequence, in which do I open the bleeding screws?

Or is this complete nonsense?

Thanks in advance.
Cheers!
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  #2  
Old 05-22-2024, 07:59 PM
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These M57 engines bleed very easily.

Open bleed valve on EGR thermostat (or the one on return line). Ignition on, heat setting to max and blower speed low. Fill expansion tank until coolant comes out from the bleed. Close bleed screw, coolant cap can still be open. Start and run the engine. Fill coolant if needed. Slightly open the bleed screw and close if coolant is coming out. Take it for a test drive. Then check the coolant level again.
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Old 05-28-2024, 09:57 AM
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Thanks man! Just one question here, when I start the engine and slightly open the bleeding screw, does it have to be on the operating temperature or not?

That is, is it safe at all to open the bleeding screw when the system is under pressure?
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Old 05-28-2024, 10:18 AM
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In that initial fill up the engine doesn't yet need to be on operating temp. If the coolant system has been fully drained you can check the bleed valve after test drive (reached operating temp). But open the coolant cap on expansion tank first to let the pressure out. On diesels the normal operating temp is well below boiling point so relieving the pressure should cause nothing. In any case the bleed line from upper hose to expansion tank should take care of any excess air in the system ending in the expansion tank.
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