Transmission trouble 75k miles after refurb. 5HP24

[TriX5]

I looked at a whole bunch of options yesterday but decided to purchase a used one. Found a used replacement drum complete with pistons and clutch plates. I will have to open the replacement cage to replace the o-rings but otherwise it should be a drop in. Unfortunately it will come by snail-mail but maybe I can work on the engine in the interim.

Only decision now is whether to refurbish everything in the transmission again, including the thrust bearings this time or just get a handful of parts needed to insert tower II and then button it back up with a fresh filter in the pan. Inclined to the latter but I may have to get the full overhaul kit just to get the O-rings I need....

TBH, I am still completely baffled how there was no trace of a crack when I had it open at 93k miles and now this?

[TriX5]

The first seller was a dud and I went ahead and ordered a new cage from a seller in CA which took a bit of time to get here. Then the delivery man got the house number wrong this morning......

Nevertheless, I found it a few doors down, checked the dimensions of the cage and clutch pack, finally re-assembled the A-clutch. (The ZF manual has the most convoluted instructions on how to check clearance. It is quite simple but they apparently decided to be as obtuse as possible.) Re-assembled the A/B tower and stuck it in the trans housing, left reattaching the pump for tomorrow.

While waiting for parts I split the engine from the subframe and set it up on a little provisional engine stand. I removed the belts and the P/S pump. Then dug in to removing the upper and lower oil pan. There was very little seepage and I think a bit of gasket maker will help get the new seals back on and tight. I did find I needed a few o-rings before reassembly.

Then turned my attention to the top end. The spark plugs were not easy to extract for some bizarre reason, I also didn't like the look of them much but maybe that is caused by the fact it only ran a couple of times in 3 minute bursts the last few months. I already knew the valve cover seals needed replacing so those are unbolted but not yet off.

Waiting for a batch of parts to arrive from FCP. Once I get those I can reattach the pans and remove the valve covers. I will double check the timing and put the new VC seals on. Then I need to do a bit of cleaning, re-marry the sub-frame, engine, transmission and TC. With a bit of luck it will be on the road in a week or so.

[TriX5]

So, the trans has been back together for a few days. No real problems with the final assembly. Yesterday I cleaned up the oil pan and gave the sub-frame a rudimentary cleaning. This is 30 minute cleaning, NOT Sreten M539 cleaning.... :-).

Unfortunately the wonderful people at FCP sent me the wrong O-ring for the oil pick up tube. When I put a ticket in explaining that they had the correct part number on the bag but the wrong item inside, they first responded with: What was the question? Then: The part number is right for your application.....then it was beyond their opening hours and they haven't responded again. Wow! It used to be that I could resolve any issue with a five minute call. Those days have clearly gone...... :-(

To be sure I get something soon, ordered it from the local dealer and for good measure threw in the four O-rings that go in the oil filter attachment flange. Lets see what Monday brings. It is annoying to be stuck on a single O-ring but I can't risk an issue with the oil pick up.

Today I attached the upper oil pan. Then stuck the pin in the flex plate to set the engine at TDC and took the valve covers off. The passenger side timing looks to be within acceptable tolerance but the driver's side exhaust is off by one or two degrees, ugh! So, tomorrow I will have to take the upper timing covers off so I can rig up the whole timing kit and access the cam shaft bolts. When I did the timing last time around I struggled a bit getting the reluctor plates right and it seems didn't do a stellar job on the shaft timing either. Live and learn I guess.


I am still on track for getting it on it's wheels by Friday but it is getting tight.

[Henn28]

Definitely subscribed - Lessons learned from timing please.

I’ve had about the same experience with FCP these days. Not terrible, but not great, like it used to be. Frankly though they all seem the same now. I ordered some crank bearing shells from GetBMWParts.com last week as they seem to have the best price on OEM BMW only parts like than, and I was initially told they wouldn’t sell them to me until a certified BMW mechanic looked at and verified the process I went thru to determine the bearing shell colors and sizes. I showed them this picture and said that wasn’t going to happen:




Good video and discussion from an M62 guru on the BimmerForums:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...a-540tu-engine

[TriX5]

I got a good chuckle out of that picture, sure they didn't expect that. GetBMW parts is run in conjunction with the parts folks at BMW of Silver Spring. I used to just pick-up my GetBMWparts orders from the parts desk and noticed the parts desk guys were not really keen on that.

During the pandemic they took away the pick up option. Their shipping is quite expensive and VERY slow. I live about 10 miles away from them and it took them 10 days to get a single bolt to me once. Decided then and there not to use them again unless I had something major.

Today I removed the upper timing covers (noticed just in time that I did not need to remove the coolant pump, the Chinese timing kit includes a deep socket for the solenoids allowing the pump to stay on). Installed the timing kit and reset the camshafts. Tomorrow I need to double check the torque on those bolts. (Referenced a YT video by "50sKid" who demonstrated that the Chinese jigs for the reluctor plates are off, mostly the passenger side.)

To set the reluctor plates I ordered the jigs from German Auto Solutions. Last time around I used the holes in the upper timing covers to correct the issue caused by the Chinese timing kit. So, getting closer but still not ready to roll it back in the engine bay.

[Henn28]

I agree, shipping can be hit or miss unfortunately. 75% of the time it’s fine, but 25% of the time it takes a call to get things moving. I’m really surprised that a BMW dealership is willing to undercut their own parts department like they do. They consistently beat just about everyone else on BMW branded parts.

I bought the GAS timing tool off a guy on the other forum who was getting out of the M62 racket. I’m told it’s the gold standard for M6x timing tools for DYIers? Happy to loan it out.

I watched a YouTube video of a guy who out an M62 into his drift car and timed it without the tool. It was a non TUB, but still impressive.

Dropped my crank off at one machine shop to be polished and have the journals measured as a backup to my handiwork. This guy has my block annd is cleaning it annd measuring the bores. Then I dropped my pistons and a bunch of new misc head parts (valve seals, keepers) at the machine shop doing the valve job on the heads, and figuring out if I can use S62 springs instead of M62 4.6 springs. The S62 springs are much cheaper and that cam has almost the same lift as the 4.6 cams do (1.5mm more than the 4.4 cams). Hopefully I’ll have the block back after Christmas, add my bearings will come in so I can assemble that much. I need get an eBay 540i oil pan and (hopefully) rebuilt pump.

[TriX5]

Yes, it can be done w/o the special tools but it would probably take two persons or improvise the tools to keep the cam shafts perpendicular to the heads. The reluctor rings can be set by inserting a pin through the upper timing covers after they are back on the engine but it is a bit fiddle to get it right. It took me two attempts the last time I put my engine back in the car. Also, that's when I realized something was up with my tool kit.

The folks at GAS were very quick. I ordered and an hour later I got an email confirming it shipped. That should put it in my hands tomorrow. Looks like Thursday will be a big day re-assembling stuff. I am a bit less under time pressure as a neighbor agreed to house one of my cars when we are away for Christmas. My spouse is not really happy if not all the hardware is indoors while we are traveling.

Henn28: Looks like you have a huge job on your hands with the engine dis-assembled to basic parts? I take it this is the motor you took out when you implanted the 4.6?

[TriX5]

Just before our Christmas trip to England I needed space to get my truck inside the garage. So, pushed on and got the Engine/trans/TC/Subframe back together and attached the assembly under the chassis. This freed-up just enough space to get the Tundra parked. At the time I realized that I had two more problems; my splines on the front drive shaft looked very poorly (again) and my center support bearing is toast. Ugh, these cars are just unbelievable on wear items. Again waiting on parts to fix those items. The spline stub will need to be welded as before. Should have noticed these issues on disassembly but I was utterly focused on the trans problem and then on getting the timing reset properly.

Got back from the UK a few days ago in the middle of a snow storm and suffering a nasty cold I picked up in London. Yesterday finally picked up tools again and put the drive shafts in the front diff and attached the knuckles to the struts. Reconnected the sway bar ends and put the brake disks on. Today it is time to finish the work in the wheel wells, then reattach the front wheels and put it on four wheels again. Need to re-fill the diff and probably drain the TCase and refill while I have the drain pan under it.

On the injectors I decided to get a new set this summer, for now I am just trying to get it back on the road and stop throwing cash at it.

[X5chemist]

Are all BMW V8s four valve too? I had to remind myself the I6 is four valve after replacing the valve cover.

[TriX5]

Yesterday finished up the brakes and suspension so it could go back on the wheels. Having it on the wheels makes me a bit less concerned working under the car trying to get the rear drive shaft split. (No luck yet) Connected the transmission harness. Also filled the front diff and refreshed the TCase fluid, then did the initial fill of the transmission as well.

Today I connected everything on the back and sides of the engine; steering shaft, coolant hoses, injector rail, etc. Then put the core support and the impact bumper back on. Looks like a car again rather than something from transformers or Mad Max! Probably need one more day to get the radiators and the rest of the engine bay front back together.

The spline stub arrived yesterday but turned out to be the wrong size, so back to waiting for parts, ugh. I am also struggling to find the center bearing, so the drive shafts are really starting to hold me up from completing the work.