experimental MAF reset switch: which circuit to interrupt? PLAN REVISED

[Clavurion]

Then use proper connectors for the job. Like this.

https://www.finjector.com/fin/3_napa...2-p-522161-229

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

Then use proper connectors for the job. Like this.

https://www.finjector.com/fin/3_napa...2-p-522161-229

Then it wouldn't be a redneck project, would it? I looked online for nearby parts houses that might carry that kit, bu neither automotive nor electronics companies carry it.

I could get a similar Bosch kit from Amazon, but I think I could make my design work just as well, using silicone sealant to secure & waterproof the inserted/tinned wire ends (with silicone tape wrapped arond it, as a cover).

Remember, it's just an experiment.

[Happy]

Originally Posted by workingonit

Remember, it's just an experiment.

It’s gotta be a multitude of sensors then.


E53 RiPPeR
XOuTPoST jUNkiE
ReVELaTiON 22:21

[workingonit]

"It’s gotta be a multitude os sensors then."

I don't understand what you're saying. Please translate.

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[Happy]

If I understood correctly, your MAF at least one is possibly shot. Is the DISA functioning correctly without leaks? Have you looked at the cam sensor data? Checked primary O2 voltage’s? And also, some don’t think secondary O2’s have any function other than reading cats. I would still check voltage’s. If any one of these sensors are tired, it can cause issues. Smoking didn’t reveal my leaking DISA. Make sure “new” replacement parts have proper voltage. Genuine parts are generally more reliable than most others. Some manufacturers have quality parts, but it can still be hit and miss these days it seems.


E53 RiPPeR
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ReVELaTiON 22:21

[workingonit]

I checked all of the above at one time or several times...found nothing amiss. I even posted a graph of the O2 sensors functionality. The upstream O2 sensors were replaced by the previous owner with Bosch pieces, about 4k miles ago. I'm not sure about the downstream units, though.

I rebuilt my DISA with the G.A.S. kit, with the upgraded O-ring, and used a wrap of Teflon tape and Silicone paste to ensure a good seal and easy install, without damaging the new O-ring.

I had an exhaust cam fault pop up, replaced it with a VEMO part (made in Germany), and it fixed the fault. I've replaced no other sensors, except for the two cheap MAFs.

The PO also replaced the secondary air valve and vacuum tubing, FPR, and a lot of other parts in engine bay and suspension. He did a good job, since the truck runs and drives perfectly fine. Except for not replacing the deteriorating clutch fan (I did, with a hi-powered electric fan, as soon as I could, after we swapped cars), I can find no fault with his work, all done about 4k miles ago.

I mentioned that my fuel trim readings get worse as my short trip, low speed, stop and go normal driving persists, and that I've noticed that the fuel trims (long term, of course) trend downward if & when I actually do some highway driving. Well, I'm going to get to make an 80 or so mile trip to my mom-in-laws ranch today (my wife is driving her Lexus, separately, because she's staying there overnight) for a family event. I'll observe the LTFTs falling, I expect.

Also, since I'll be coming home after dark, I'll be using my X5's headlights for the first time ever, while driving. Never drove it after dark before.



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[Happy]

Well the way I see it is if you’ve come up with this “MAF Switch” then it’s pretty much narrowed down. If you’re not willing to commit to a genuine replacement part at least try a Siemens VDO MAF. I have used them in the past with zero issues. Cheap knock off sensors will work sometimes. More often not though. They can even produce proper readings, and still fail to properly report to the DME.


E53 RiPPeR
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ReVELaTiON 22:21

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by Happy

...If you’re not willing to commit to a genuine replacement part at least try a Siemens VDO MAF. I have used them in the past with zero issues....

The MAF sensor that I removed, for underreporting airflow, was a Siemens VDO sensor. it's the correct part # and was also well-cleaned with MAF cleaner spray.

I don't know how it was cleaned before I owned the X, maybe with brake cleaner? (a non-no), but I didn't want to pay the big bucks to replace it with the same unit, not knowing if it work to make the problem go away.

Another forum member offered to send me a tested, trusted Siemens VDO sensor, for testing purposes only, but he never did, so I bought a cheap Amazon MAF that X5chemist had used (and is still using, years later) with success.

I've often considered buying other mid-range sensor brands (from Hella, Bremi, Pierburg, and other brand names I've used and trusted), but there's no guarantee of getting anything that works better than the cheap Amazon unit(s) I already have (they report the MAF airflow higher than the old Siemens, at flows that others have reported as correct).

So, until I find the actual problem, I will just keep resetting the cheap MAF (unless YOU might send me a trusted unit for cross-checking with...hint, hint!!). The remote reset is just an idea for just another work-around device I thought that I might want to make/use, the idea occurring while sitting at a stoplight in a rainstorm, but decidely not really a necessity, at all).

My mind goes off on tangents, creating work-arounds for problems all the time; I've been doing that for in-home projects, and for items used in my cars/trucks/racecar for over 50 years, and even at work when the electro-mechanical "experts" (including factory-sent experts) couldn't or wouldn't fix my machines...anything that would work.

[BimmerBreaker]

It's also possible you may just have a weird DME fault causing this - the MS43 has a barometric sensor on the DME board and I've seen similar issues with an MS45 with a barometric sensor problem. The sensor didn't fail - so no code, but it was faulty - the result of this was the erroneous data fed to the DME messed up the fuel trims. The car I was working on would throw consistent O2 sensor codes after enough driving.



There's nothing wrong with creative solutions, but this isn't a solution - it's a bandaid

My advice...

Originally Posted by workingonit

I just reset the fuel trims whenever the eventually climb near "10", before any codes might possible get set

First and foremost, stop doing this. Let it set a code and go from there.

[Happy]

Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker

It's also possible you may just have a weird DME fault causing this - the result of this was the erroneous data fed to the DME messed up the fuel trims.

This is true. I had a bad wire-harness! One of my sensors was leaking oil pressure into the loom, feeding oil all the way to my custom DME!

Readings were all over the place!


E53 RiPPeR
XOuTPoST jUNkiE
ReVELaTiON 22:21