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#31
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more prep work
Quote:
I had to use small spade connectors to be able to just insert them into the existing sensor plug, without cutting any wires (the pigtail will be used for the experiment, and removed afterwards if there are no favorable results... but will be retained, if there are). My only concern is that I might touch them together when inserting them, as there's not much space between them; I've covered them with Liquid Electrical Tape, to prevent them from touching. note that the pigtail shown (top left photo) has the wires arranged differently than on the pigtail I received (bottom photo) Since the input voltage to the MAF sensor should be no greater than 14.8 volts (the most I've seen on my instruments when the X5 is running), I'll get a step-down Buck converter for that input (I don't need a step-up converter, since my experiment's goal is to be able to reduce the voltage to the hot-film sensor, to trick it into reporting a higher airflow than actual). I could probably use a simple DC motor speed controller (like the one I used to control my electric cooling fan), or a DC dimmer switch (mainly used for LED lighting on RV's), but I haven't quite decided, yet. Still, knowing the amperage going into the MAF is critical, to find the best device to reduce the temperature of the hot-film's heating element, without exceeding the device's rated capacity. So, I'll install the pigtail, and use my DC amp clamp to measure the amperage going into the MAF sensor, thru the orange wire, before I buy any controlling device. It couldn't be above 20 amps, because the MAF gets its' power from Fuse F3, in the DME fuse carrier, rated at 20 amps, and it supplies power to other circuits, along the way. A voltage step-down, "Buck", converter has a few added features that the motor speed controller or RV light dimmer wouldn't have: circuit protections (settable to limit max/min voltage and amperage, some have short circuit protection too, and even anti-feedback protection), a detailed display (voltage in/out, amperage in/out, wattage, etc.), and a setting to have the device always on, w/o turning off-resetting the MAF system entirely (i.e., setting the fuel trims back to zero, and starting over with the emissions monitors). this one is $20, and has a 5A output rating; others have up to a 20A output rating (for $35-50) I'll have to postpone my amperage test for a couple of days, while waiting for my wife to get back home (always helping her coterie of friends and family, when they're sick, or dog-sitting for them when they travel...I hope she'll attend to my needs when I get infirm, as I'm 14 years her senior...right now, I'm tending to our menagerie of house & semi-feral , free-ranging, outdoor critters, while she's gone). When she returns, I'll attach the amp clamp, have her sit behind the wheel of the X, and observe the amperage on the orange wire as she revs the truck to 3k rpms. That should give me the info I need, to proceed to the next step of the experiment.
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
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#32
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drawing up my nefarious Problemumgehungen (workarounds)
While waiting for the wife to help me test the voltage and current going into the MAF sensor (using the jumper pigtail, a DC amp clamp, and a multimeter), I drew up a "revised" wiring plan.
I'm still undecided about whether to just get a step-down (Buck) converter, or for about the same price, or opt for a step-up, step-down (Buck-Boost) converter. The wiring I'd need to add would be the same, for either. Might as well get the more versatile unit. If my experiment to reset and/or tune the MAF's output signal ends up as ineffective, then I can use the Buck-Boost Converter inside the house, as a cheap low-power DC power supply (I've got several old AC-DC power bricks leftover), to test DC devices and perhaps charge them. That is, if my experiment doesn't burn up the converter (and/or my test MAF), first. My wife is back in town, but the outside temperature will be about 99-100F today, so my test must wait for cooler weather. She doesn't handle temps over 80F very well (she's had 2 trips to the emergency room, due to heat...though I've had many heat-strokes myself, I'm like the Energizer Bunny and I keep on going, though my DR. has warned me against it).
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide Last edited by workingonit; 09-23-2024 at 02:50 PM. |
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