Rough idle and loss of power with codes p1344 and p1350 (mysfires)

[jac]

The cigar test has worked for me in 2 occasions in the past to find leaks in the DISA valve's seal and also in a hose that was under the air intake manifold.

Probably the holes causing the leaks in those two cases were large enough and maybe smaller ones would not be found with the cigar test? I am sure I am not adding a whole lot of PSI with it, and a proper machine would add the required amount of PSI so it would be more effective.

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by jac

... I am sure I am not adding a whole lot of PSI with it, and a proper machine would add the required amount of PSI so it would be more effective.

But WHAT is the required amount of PSI to apply? When I was researching "proper machines" to smoke test with, I found most came with a regulator limiting the pressure to about 1.5 PSI, like on the AutoLine Pro EVAP Smoke Machine Leak Tester – Shop Series https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1that I bought (after returning a similar, but defective clone I had previously ordered).

I tested using my Husky compressor set to 5 PSI, and later tried it set to 15 PSI (which did supply just a bit more smoke), but never found a leak. Maybe I could remove the tester's regulator to supply more smoke, but then I might overpower a seal or two, so I won't.

PS...Amazon has the tester I listed above for just $70 for Black Friday. I paid about $102 a year ago, and that was with an Amazon discount.

[jac]

Originally Posted by workingonit

But WHAT is the required amount of PSI to apply?

I honestly don't know. This video says to only apply 9 PSI...

Originally Posted by workingonit

I tested using my Husky compressor set to 5 PSI, and later tried it set to 15 PSI (which did supply just a bit more smoke), but never found a leak. Maybe I could remove the tester's regulator to supply more smoke, but then I might overpower a seal or two, so I won't.

Yeah, probably wise to not go over a single digit amount of PSI...

Originally Posted by workingonit

PS...Amazon has the tester I listed above for just $70 for Black Friday. I paid about $102 a year ago, and that was with an Amazon discount.

Thanks!

[80stech]

Check the basics first, plug, coil, compression etc. Let us know what happens after clearing codes and resetting adaptations.

[jac]

Ok, so far I have done the following:

1. exchanged coil one and coil two positions
2. cleaned the reusable air filter
3. cleared all the codes
4. cleared all the adaptations through INPA
5. configured the obdlink bluetooth to record all kinds of data for my test drive

I will drive around some and report what happens next.

I watched a couple of videos on compression tests, I'll need to rent/buy some gauges to do that.

Thank you all for your help so far! :-)

[80stech]

Any updates ??

[jac]

Hi, please excuse the lack of updates as I was traveling for several days.

After cleaning the re-usable K&N filter, I followed 80stech advice and did a reset on the adaptations using INPA. The car drove just fine for about 1 hour of highway and street driving, but then I had to travel so I have not been able to drive it anymore since.

So far it seems that the failure was caused by the lack of air (blocked by the dirty filter) into the intake. I will provide an update again in a few days either way.

Thank you!

[jac]

I've been driving it on the street and highway and it has been behaving. So, I am calling this fixed. Thank you all!

[80stech]

I would toss that K&N filter and go back to the OE panel. Besides the MAF contamination issue and the maintenance you gotta wonder if they flow as much air as the OE filter even when clean.