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#11
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Quote:
100AH divided by 20 hours = 5amps The Reserve Capacity of a battery is the number of minutes the battery can supply a known current (usually 25amps) before reaching 10.5v. In a perfect world, a 100AH battery could sustain 25amps for 4 hours but as batteries are not perfect voltage sources and have losses that increase with factors like loading and temperature, a good 100AH battery is more likely to have an RC of 150-200 (minutes).
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
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#12
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That's exactly right! Here's my Sam's Duracell...
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#13
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Then there's my Napa AGM Legend
AGM Lower CCA = 850 With RC = 170 Ah= 92 Last edited by getty150; 11-30-2024 at 02:19 PM. |
#14
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Finally, Ive got this DuraLast Platinum from AZ (I think) AGM...
CCA=900 RC=160 95 amp hours? All a bit confusing to me and my lack of the battery category. Last edited by getty150; 11-30-2024 at 02:37 PM. |
#15
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And again, battery by East Penn
Why pay more for an AGM that falls short of the lead-acid battery specs?
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
#16
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Quote:
BMW has a section on AGM I believe...newtis? The constantly increasing energy demand of modern vehicle electrical systems calls for ever more powerful battery solutions. A modern luxury-class vehicle has some 100*actuator motors that have to be fed with electrical current. Added to these are safety, environmental and comfort elements which are increasingly becoming standard features, such as e.g. Antilock Brake System (ABS), Dynamic Stability Control (DSC), steering assistance (EPS), electronic chassis and suspension control, air conditioning and navigation system. Current consumption is considerable even when the vehicle is not in use. The somewhat higher price compared with a battery of similar size is fully balanced by the following benefits: greatly longer service life improved starting reliability at low temperatures Safe starting of engines with high starting power requirements, for example high-performance diesel engines 100*% freedom from maintenance low risk in the event of an accident (reduced environmental risk) They list more benefits... Construction The AGM battery differs from the conventional lead calcium battery as follows: larger plates: Larger plates allow a 25% larger power density. Separators made of glass-fibre fleece: These can cause an up to 3-times higher cycle stability to be reached. This improves the cold starting capability, the power consumption and service life. Airtight housing with pressure relief valve (please refer to ”How it works”): The inspection plugs are sealed and can not be opened. Battery acid bound in glass-fibre fleece: Battery acid is not found free in the housing as before, but is rather bound 100% in the glass-fibre fleece. This gives increased security against the acid escaping and thus reduces the environmental risk. Last edited by getty150; 11-29-2024 at 07:17 AM. |
#17
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to each his own
I've stated my reasons for sticking with conventional batteries above; I haven't seen (firsthand) ANY benefits from AGM, GEL, or the newer Lithium-based batteries, but have seen problems with the latter three.
AGM: my one Optima Yellowtop (in my camping trailer) has died twice on me, when I wasn't diligent in checking the non-smart trickle charger I was using, 7-8 years ago. It took me days of de-sulfating and "shocking" the battery to bring it back from the dead. I tried to save a neighbor's dead AGM, but couldn't. GEL: back around '98-'00, racing GEL batteries were the coming thing to use, so I tried them, twice. They were finicky about underhood heat, and what amperage you could charge them at. After one underhood just died at a race, I moved the next one to the trunk, and it lived for awhile, but it didn't last the rest of the season. I didn't use an alternator, but recharged between rounds, and the GEL just couldn't take it (and they were damned expensive). LITHIUM: the present "coming thing", for EV's, phones, and solar guys. I'm sure I could find one to fit in the X, too, if I tried. However, they're ridiculously over-priced, love to spontaneously self-ignite (I've had two Lihium Ion batteries attempt to do so, in two Samsung phones I've had, a S7 and a S8+), and there are documented stories of EV's worldwide igniting, using Lithium batteries. I'll never go Electric, ICE-ICE, baby! I'm ignoring the propaganda permeating the auto industry, concerning EV's, and even toward "advanced battery tech". If it ain't broke (and it ain't) why fix it, or re-invent the wheel, or re-brand Jaguar, for that matter. I'll just keep my old vehicles running as long as I can, using old-school gasoline and old-school batteries.
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
#18
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Ok, ok...I'm with you...if it ain't broke don't fix it...gotcha!
Not refuting your views or opinions. Thanks for your valuable input and first hand experience, just what I wanted . Last edited by getty150; 11-29-2024 at 12:28 AM. |
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