Super Start battery [emoji367]

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by getty150

... The third category pictured above is really Reserve Capacity commonly listed as RC ?

Nope - but it's similar. The 20HR capacity rating is simply stating that this battery should be able to deliver 5amps for 20 hours, before reaching it's terminal voltage (10.5v)

100AH divided by 20 hours = 5amps

The Reserve Capacity of a battery is the number of minutes the battery can supply a known current (usually 25amps) before reaching 10.5v.

In a perfect world, a 100AH battery could sustain 25amps for 4 hours but as batteries are not perfect voltage sources and have losses that increase with factors like loading and temperature, a good 100AH battery is more likely to have an RC of 150-200 (minutes).

[getty150]

That's exactly right! Here's my Sam's Duracell...

Sent from my REVVL V+ 5G using Tapatalk

[getty150]

Then there's my Napa AGM Legend

AGM
Lower CCA = 850
With RC = 170
Ah= 92

[getty150]

Finally, Ive got this DuraLast Platinum from AZ (I think) AGM...

CCA=900
RC=160
95 amp hours?

All a bit confusing to me and my lack of knowledge in the car battery category.

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by getty150

Then there's my Napa AGM Legend

Lower CCA = 850
With RC = 170

Why pay more for an AGM that falls short of the lead-acid battery specs?

[getty150]

Originally Posted by workingonit

Why pay more for an AGM that falls short of the lead-acid battery specs?

Attachment 84591

Agreed
BMW has a section on AGM I believe...newtis?

The constantly increasing energy demand of modern vehicle electrical systems calls for ever more powerful battery solutions. A modern luxury-class vehicle has some 100*actuator motors that have to be fed with electrical current. Added to these are safety, environmental and comfort elements which are increasingly becoming standard features, such as e.g. Antilock Brake System (ABS), Dynamic Stability Control (DSC), steering assistance (EPS), electronic chassis and suspension control, air conditioning and navigation system. Current consumption is considerable even when the vehicle is not in use.

The somewhat higher price compared with a battery of similar size is fully balanced by the following benefits:

greatly longer service life

improved starting reliability at low temperatures

Safe starting of engines with high starting power requirements, for example high-performance diesel engines

100*% freedom from maintenance

low risk in the event of an accident (reduced environmental risk)

They list more benefits...

Construction

The AGM battery differs from the conventional lead calcium battery as follows:

larger plates: Larger plates allow a 25% larger power density.
Separators made of glass-fibre fleece: These can cause an up to 3-times higher cycle stability to be reached. This improves the cold starting capability, the power consumption and service life.
Airtight housing with pressure relief valve (please refer to ”How it works”):

The inspection plugs are sealed and can not be opened.

Battery acid bound in glass-fibre fleece: Battery acid is not found free in the housing as before, but is rather bound 100% in the glass-fibre fleece. This gives increased security against the acid escaping and thus reduces the environmental risk.

[workingonit]

I've stated my reasons for sticking with conventional batteries above; I haven't seen (firsthand) ANY benefits from AGM, GEL, or the newer Lithium-based batteries, but have seen problems with the latter three.

AGM: my one Optima Yellowtop (in my camping trailer) has died twice on me, when I wasn't diligent in checking the non-smart trickle charger I was using, 7-8 years ago. It took me days of de-sulfating and "shocking" the battery to bring it back from the dead. I tried to save a neighbor's dead AGM, but couldn't.

GEL: back around '98-'00, racing GEL batteries were the coming thing to use, so I tried them, twice. They were finicky about underhood heat, and what amperage you could charge them at. After one underhood just died at a race, I moved the next one to the trunk, and it lived for awhile, but it didn't last the rest of the season. I didn't use an alternator, but recharged between rounds, and the GEL just couldn't take it (and they were damned expensive).

LITHIUM: the present "coming thing", for EV's, phones, and solar guys. I'm sure I could find one to fit in the X, too, if I tried. However, they're ridiculously over-priced, love to spontaneously self-ignite (I've had two Lihium Ion batteries attempt to do so, in two Samsung phones I've had, a S7 and a S8+), and there are documented stories of EV's worldwide igniting, using Lithium batteries. I'll never go Electric, ICE-ICE, baby!

I'm ignoring the propaganda permeating the auto industry, concerning EV's, and even toward "advanced battery tech". If it ain't broke (and it ain't) why fix it, or re-invent the wheel, or re-brand Jaguar, for that matter. I'll just keep my old vehicles running as long as I can, using old-school gasoline and old-school batteries.

[getty150]

Ok, ok...I'm with you...if it ain't broke don't fix it...gotcha!
Not refuting your views or opinions.
Thanks for your valuable input and first hand experience, just what I wanted .

[getty150]

Well, after some lengthy research time in understanding the terms and concepts of battery buying. Ive got a good layperson understanding.
I was safe in simply purchasing from Sam's yes.
But, I now know how to compare batteries for purchasing.
Mistakes can be made.
And its not the best practice to take the sales persons strong suggestion.
Did you know the temperature of your area where you live can have an impact on the type of battery purchased! Heck I've been lied to at the auto parts store. Did you know there really isn't a maintenance free battery especially if you want to get the most out of that battery...you're going to need a charger but not just any charger.
BMW driver...?
Best to charge that puppy up on the weekends and before long trips.
Letting the car sit for a considerable amount of time...?
Put the battery on a trickel charger.
Short trips inevitable, but not the best for the older (3yr old) battery.
There's a reason for all the different sizes and choices, it means something. Especially with all the different electrical components housed in the modern car.
Makes me think of my old 75 Buick...well thats another story!

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by getty150

...I was safe in simply purchasing from Sam's (good prices for reputable batteries)
...And its not the best practice to take the sales persons strong suggestion (misinfo from a sometimes under-informed sales person)
...Heck I've been lied to at the auto parts store (they're just upselling, by order of management)
...you're going to need a charger but not just any charger (use a "smart" charger-maintainer)

...BMW driver...? (famed for German over-engineering and resultant problems, like the Tiger tanks of WW2)
then, it's Best to charge that puppy up on the weekends and before long trips, or if Letting the car sit for a considerable amount of time...? then
Put the battery on a trickel charger.....

Good choice for your battery..

Even after dealing with dozens of car batteries over the past 59 years ('65-'24), I'm still learning about them. I've learned to do my research before buying, and go after my final choice, unswayed by sales people (autoparts stores are for emergency sourcing of parts only, IMHO, therefore I avoid them).

As for battery problems with my X: I have subjected it to the worst combination of usage scenarios possible. Under-used (it might sit for weeks), short trips when driven, over-testing (I might run it at idle for hours, or not at all, when scanning or such), hot-climate use (summer, spring, & fall, usually), and I have no idea the history of the charging system preceding my ownership (it was probably never charged, regularly, while the PO was prepping it for me). Compared to my other old vehicles (not counting the '14 Lexus), the X5 has twice (or more) modules that require good power to function.

P.S. In addition to using several different brands & types of chargers & charger-maintainers on my vehicles, I have started to carry an "emergency kit" along with me, whenever I drive away from home (if the wife remained at home, and could bring me the kit, if left behind). It contains two scan tools (Innova 3100i, and Foxwell NT510 Elite...with BMW, General Motors, and Toyota-Lexus software), multimeter, DC amp clamp, relay bypass kit, generic "power probe", Lithium-ion jump box, some hand tools, electrical & Gorilla tape, gloves, and even a spare cell phone with OTG endoscope. And some Texas-specific spare equipment. The X5 (and the Chevy 2500HD) already have their own large tool & spare parts supplies onboard already (even with chargers, jacks, air pumps, etc), the other vehicles don't, so the "emergeny kit" (in a 15" tool bag) was born. Just in case.