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  #11  
Old 01-16-2025, 11:56 AM
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If I understand right, you install both gaskets into the valve cover, and then apply Form-A-Gasket sealant on the sparkplugs gasket?
And a layer of RTV on the gasket that goes around the full perimeter of the valve cover, which you call "head sealing surface".
Basically RTV everywhere.
Or Form-A-Gasket everywhere, but RTV on half moons and vanos?
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  #12  
Old 01-16-2025, 11:57 AM
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I'm not sure if the first picture is supposed to demonstrate the application? It's super small and not clickable, I.e. can't enlarge it
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  #13  
Old 01-16-2025, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5chemist View Post
Mine has a new aluminum valve cover and seal.
I see two flaws in the design. One, the "bolts", bottom out if you tighten them too much.
That's not a flaw. That's how they are supposed to work, and thats how factory cover and bolts works too. The bolts tighten against the head then you stop torqueing them. The rubber "donut" gasket is compressed in this process and the donut works to push the valve cover down to remain seated even while the engine heats up and the bolts expand slightly. This is why it's required to also replace the donut gaskets. It's also why some hacks will use an extra washer under the bolt to apply more compression on old donut gaskets to get a little more life out of tired VCG.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0 View Post
If I understand right, you install both gaskets into the valve cover, and then apply Form-A-Gasket sealant on the sparkplugs gasket?
And a layer of RTV on the gasket that goes around the full perimeter of the valve cover, which you call "head sealing surface".
Basically RTV everywhere.
Or Form-A-Gasket everywhere, but RTV on half moons and vanos?
You should never skim coat a rubber gasket with RTV. You should only apply RTV at the corners of the half moons in the rear and at the joint between timing cover and head.

I've done literally hundreds of M54 valve cover gaskets in my life. This is the only right way to do them. I've removed countless of valve covers from an owner who said "I just did the valve cover gasket a few months ago and now it's leaking" when I took it off I saw a skim coat of RTV at the whole surface. It might work once in a blue moon. But it's not the right way to do it.

It's one of the most simple jobs you can do on these cars.
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  #14  
Old 01-16-2025, 04:12 PM
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When you remove the spark plug seal, it will look like this pic. I'm lucky oil didn't get down into the spark plug holes. Mine are lightly sealed there with form a gasket. It should slow down oil seep. RTV only on moon and VANOS/cover seal seat. A lightly brushed coat of form a gasket on cover and head mating surface.

Clear as mud?

A good working CCV will prevent cap buildup. 167k on the OEM cover. No more white milk since installing a cold weather CCV package.
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  #15  
Old 01-17-2025, 05:37 AM
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Thanks ill give it a shot. You're basically using form-a-gasket on both sides on the gasket to make stick to the head and to the valve cover!
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  #16  
Old 01-17-2025, 08:41 AM
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Don't worry about getting the form a gasket on the cover outer side. Use brake cleaner to wipe up any mess. It's real tacky! For tight small areas, a q-tip might work better. The container brush is messy.
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  #17  
Old 01-17-2025, 11:15 AM
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Form-a-gasket is a rigid sealant, it is not designed to be used to seal soft rubber gaskets to hard surfaces. I've never understood why some people try using a gasket (RTV, or form a gasket, or anything else) in addition to the rubber gasket. The RTV at the joint locations is to fill any gaps, that's all you need. The rest of the head is flat, another layer of gasket is just creating another failure point.
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  #18  
Old 01-18-2025, 02:25 AM
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Maybe it helps with keeping the gasket "glued" to the head, to prevent oil eventually leaking past the gasket?
It probably has strong bonding properties
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  #19  
Old 01-18-2025, 11:13 AM
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There are two types. Brown and purple liquids. Purple is softer and more flexible when dry. Purple comes off more like glue globs when you want to remove it. I've used both types.
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2025, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmwe5320023.0 View Post
Maybe it helps with keeping the gasket "glued" to the head, to prevent oil eventually leaking past the gasket?
It probably has strong bonding properties
The compression from the rubber donuts around the perimeter serve that purpose. Those "push" the valve cover gasket into the head.

I've seen people use all kinds of weird stuff to try to seal those. I've also seen oil leak into the seating channel for the valve cover and leak up and out over the top of the gasket when people "glue" the valve cover to the head.

The gasket leaks when, for one reason or another, the "pushing" force of the rubber gaskets is so longer enough to provide enough sealing force to resist the crankcase pressure. If gaskets are failing prematurely, I would be investigating the CCV system, not trying to modify the gasket to be "glued" to the head.
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