|
Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring.... |
Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management |
![]() |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Hard Cold Shifts 6HP 26Z 04 4.4
I know it's inevitable not to have transmission problems, especially with an aging BMW with over 130k miles but how do you guys deal with this? I usually drive slow until my transmission warms up. I know you can reset your transmission by holding your pedal past kickdown in switch 2 but how much of a difference does this make? also, would this reset be better with a warm or cold transmission or does it not make a difference? I can deal with cold delayed and hard shifts but what really concerns me is when I slow down at a stop sign and drive forward and my transmission just takes a huge fucking dump feeling like a semi truck rear ended me. it's much worse uphill since there's more stress on the transmission so I avoid this by using manual mode. The only two fixes I can think of are doing the kickdown transmission reset or buying SP-DATENS, or just dealing with it. |
Sponsored Links | |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
![]() The only way to reset the transmission adaptations is to use a diag. tool plugged into the diag. port (INPA/DIS/ISTA/Fowell etc.). and you would only do this if you have replaced transmission components. It seems the only real hard fix for the dreaded 2-1 slam is to replace the solenoids on the valve body. Other fixes may reduce or eliminate the 2-1 slam for a time but it always comes back (DAMHIK...). Some folk have also had success with a trans controller (EGS) software re-flash but others have done this with zero change. Transmission threads are like oil threads - everybody will have a different opinion/experiance! ![]()
__________________
Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) ![]() |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
![]() ![]() Sent from Embassy network using Tapatalk
__________________
"When the Team Chief said.... You're trapped in a hole with nothing but a goat and a slinky, what do you do? Stubby said, I'm not sure but it won't end well for the goat...." ~(Overheard) Last day, Phase 3, Q Course |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Get a trans service done and chuck a bit of Dr Tranny in that will fix it.
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Another thing to check is the fluid level. I started having hard shifts when my level was low due to a leaking mechatronic sleeve. As the sleeve gets old the o-rings on it flatten out.
The first time a regular transmission service did the trick. Then we did the solenoids and the seals above the valve body about four years later when the shifts got worse. Mine is an 04 4.4i N62 with only 47k miles. Some useful info in the thread I created for the second iteration here: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ent-notes.html |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
How noticeable was the leak? would it stain the floor or was a closer inspection needed?
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
There was a significant stain on the garage floor under the transmission, the first time. The second time we replaced the mechatronic seal again as a preventative measure. No leak, but the seals above the valve body and solenoids were worn out.
Last edited by haigha; 01-20-2025 at 10:51 PM. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I would heartily recommend a gearbox service, fresh fluid and filters, along with gearbox reset, and software update. Worked wonders for mine, and he is very similar, 04 4.4 with over 130k
I (like many it seems) had the dreaded rear end shunt when trying to pull away, so i had my local dealership do the service on it, and it has been absolutely fantastic since, no more shunt. It was a little pricey, but so worth it (even if the software update did knock out my TV) I hear you on the aging BM, always seem to be fixing something. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
If the bridge seal and the four cylindrical seals above the valve body haven't been done, I would add those to the list. The solenoids too depending on how tight your budget is. If you go with the ZF fluid, it's expensive. See my note about needing more than comes with most flush kits, if you remove the valve body (link in my earlier post). It took quite a while to relearn the adaptions after resetting them with my Foxwell. I only did the reset the second time. |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
|