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Old 01-22-2009, 02:00 PM
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Any tips on changing the front axle seal?

I did the Front axle CV boot changes last weekend and it was a pretty easy job after I had a mechanic show me the easy way how to do it. A lot of the items in different forum posts that show removing do not need to be removed as you can swing the hub strut assembly out after removing the wishbone arm which is a lot less work, no need to pull the hub and remove all the other suspension pieces or strut bolts. I ended up pulling the axles all the way out of the drive box so they were easy to work on. All went back together pretty easy but I just noticed I have a seal leak at the axle drive box seal on the passenger side so I must have buggered up the seal when I pulled the axle out or put it back in. I picked up the new seal and now wondering if there is any tricks I need to know about for pulling out the old seal and installing the new seal. Appreciate if anyone has any tips for doing this seal replacement.
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Old 01-22-2009, 02:49 PM
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If you found removing the complete axle easy then replacing the seal is easier.
I used a screwdriver to remove the seal until I found this cheap seal puller at Harbor Freight - $4


Make sure to tap in the new seal evenly(I use a big socket with an extension) or if you have a seal driver - Harbor Freight - $8



Handy cheap items to add to your toolbox.

OT: Another handy item while you at Harbor Freight.
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Old 01-22-2009, 05:06 PM
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Thanks for the tool tips, for the inexpensive cost, looks like I will be making a trip to Harbor Freight to make the job easier.
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Old 12-29-2009, 10:04 PM
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What did you use to get the axle out of the differential case? Did you remove the reinforcement plate underneath? I tried getting at it without removing the reinforcement plate (using crow bar), but I can't get enough force on it to get it out. I was hoping I could do it without removing the reinforcement plate.
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Old 12-29-2009, 11:28 PM
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I would wait to see if it leaks badly or not .
if not I would top up the diff once a year .
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Old 01-20-2024, 10:15 PM
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Been watching videos and reading about changing both driver and passenger front axle seals as part of axle replacement. I haven't seen a single video showing use of the c clip that comes with axle shaft seal on FCP.
It's pictured at least, I haven't received parts yet. Is the c clip used with seal and if so how is it installed?
Maybe what's pictured is the axle shaft circlip?
It just appeared more rounded so I thought it was different.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ne-33107505601
Thanks!
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Old 01-21-2024, 02:24 AM
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Looks like the new seal comes with a new axle c-clip, since you need to removed the axle to replace the seal and should use a new a c-clip (although I've personally re-use c-clips withou any issues).

The c-clip is not associated with the seal per-se.
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Old 01-21-2024, 05:28 AM
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sometimes the axle shaft is really stuck with the c-clip and you should use a decent sized slide hammer and a axle-shaft C-adapter that threads on the end of the hammer rod.
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Old 01-21-2024, 10:19 AM
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About half the time putting cv back in the c clip will not play nice. It's good to have spares and I have put the old one back in. I've read that it helps to use gravity to help but I don't know which way the opening should be up or down.

I do always test fit without the c clip because they can make it impossible but want to make sure no problem with splines.


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Old 01-21-2024, 12:41 PM
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I would never replace the c-clip if you're reusing an axle. That's just asking for more of a fight. It won't pop out.. right

The ball joint kits have a real nice cup that is the perfect size for the axle seal. I rented that and use that again. FCP Euro sells a nice little differential fill tool. It's basically like a curved brake line with a hose attached that you can hook up to your pump or syringe tool. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-euro-b3300000

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Fluids/Driveline-Fluids/ I went with the red line 75 w90

That plate is a real pain in the ass with the nuts on top. I'm used to f30 where that plate, the nuts are welded up on top of the subframe. So you just gun the bolts in and out in 2 seconds. It took me I guess probably an hour to get that plate installed. I eventually realized I had to take the wheels back off so I could get my hand up on top of the subframe like that. Why would they design that like that why not just weld the nuts on the subframe. If there's any truck to get that plate in and without pulling the wheels let me know.
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