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  #11  
Old 05-08-2009, 12:35 PM
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I'm glad you mentioned that. Two things:

1. I'm not even sure what the value represents or what it's supposed to be.
2. When I stop, I hear like a sizzling noise coming from what I think is the CCV.

The reason I starred (*) the oil up in post #8 is because I believe it to be burning of fairly rapidly and if it's getting past the rings into the combustion chamber, then it could possibly be adding excess moisture into the crankcase possibly leading to my sizzling noise. The CCV was recently replaced, by me but this P1092 code persisted prior to its replacement.
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  #12  
Old 05-08-2009, 04:20 PM
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Today's Fuel Trim Readings

Calculated Load : 35.68%
Coolant Temp: 78.0 C

S.T. Fuel Trim B1 : 9.36%
L.T. Fuel Trim B1 : .77%

ST. Fuel Trim B2 : 10.92%
L.T. Fuel Trim B2 : .77%

Engine Speed : 2694.00 RPM
Vehicle Speed : 118.00 kmh
Ignition Timing : 27.50 BDTC
Intake Air Temp : 31.0 C
Mass Air Flow : 34.21 g/s
Throttle Position : 16.47%
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  #13  
Old 05-09-2009, 04:41 PM
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OK so the problem gets a little nuttier. Today I did the drain and fill with the new German Castrol stuff. Immediate impressions = . I can't believe the way it feels as compared to the Total stuff. It's so much smoother. I don't have that grainy/noisy/gritty feel under my foot when at the gas pedal. On the freeway - gearing down and taking it to redline is MUCH smoother. Engine doesn't feel like it's running out of steam. I'm impressed.

But we'll see if my oil burning issues are actually resolved.

As for the O2 problem - what a pain in my ass. I swapped the O2 sensors from Bank 2 to Bank 1 and Bank 1 to Bank 2. Cleared the codes, went for a 2hr roundtrip drive. Light came back on after only 10 miles. Code is THE SAME! Ugh. P1092. I was hoping it would change and I'd just have to buy a new O2 sensor and call it a day.... I took a pic of the sensors when I pulled them out. Any opinions??



Bank 2 definitely looks like the leaner of the two. And Bank 1 is actually a new (~3000mi) sensor. I'm going to pull the plugs later on and take a snap shot of those as well.
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  #14  
Old 05-11-2009, 02:19 PM
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OK so I pulled the plugs..

Photo of all 6: Close-up, they all look identical. Sorry for the out of focus close-ups. Used a camera phone as my normal camera is out for service. But from the coloring of the plugs - it's a little more sooty around the rim/base that I would expect. These plugs are about 3K miles old. I also suspected I had some oil burning issues. I've sinced switched to GC [0w-30] but seems my oil burning issues may be continuing.



Photo of Cylinder #6's plug:


Picture of Cylinder #5's plug:


Picture of Cylinder #4's plug:
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  #15  
Old 05-12-2009, 11:27 AM
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So it seems that after pulling the plugs and tightening them alot more than I did when I replaced them and clearing the codes, the SES light has remained off. It's been 24hours and 30 miles. I'm crossing my fingers at this point. But thinking it through - it could be possible that one or more plug in cylinders 4-6 were not tightened properly (my fault) and could have been letting air in through the threads. Given the amount of combustion that occurs in the chamber, it's just one big vacuum. Lesson learned. Hopefully this is the fix.
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  #16  
Old 05-12-2009, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne's World View Post
So it seems that after pulling the plugs and tightening them alot more than I did when I replaced them and clearing the codes, the SES light has remained off. It's been 24hours and 30 miles. I'm crossing my fingers at this point. But thinking it through - it could be possible that one or more plug in cylinders 4-6 were not tightened properly (my fault) and could have been letting air in through the threads. Given the amount of combustion that occurs in the chamber, it's just one big vacuum. Lesson learned. Hopefully this is the fix.
Well that wasn't it - at least not for now. Code returned and it's the same. I'll torque down the spark plugs properly and report back.
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  #17  
Old 05-12-2009, 03:41 PM
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My guess would have been the oxygen sensors. I cannot think of anything else.

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  #18  
Old 05-12-2009, 03:45 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to read Dan. I appreciate it.
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  #19  
Old 05-13-2009, 10:22 AM
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I've now torqued the plugs down to 21ft/lbs (no anti-seize per BMW recommendations). I also pulled the negative battery cable for 30 mins and did the throttle adaptation reset procedure. After 2 starts and 17 miles, light came back on. I'll post the fuel trim data again later today.
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  #20  
Old 08-20-2009, 11:03 AM
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RESOLVED!

OK so to finally put this issue to bed after troubleshooting this since March '09, here was my prob (all of them):

1. Used stupid Actron or generic OBD-II scanner to get P codes instead of BMW specific codes
2. After cat O2 sensor in Bank 1
3. Didn't take it to my indy sooner

So after biting the bullet and taking it to my indy Integated Automotive Services (IAS) in Easton, PA [Love those guys], they gave me the BMW code of 235 which was equivalent to P code P1190, not P1092 as I had been getting all along. So I coughed up the $30 for that diagnosis (I'm a cheapskate).

So my problem rested in bank 1, not bank 2 as I had been troubleshooting.

Nevertheless, the BMW code 235 simply translated to: "Pre-cat sensor Bank 1, Trim Control". I used my 330i - ODB-II Codes this translator/converter and plugged in P1190.

Problem was, the Pre-cat in bank 1 was new. Both bank 1's on each side were new. Going on the mentality that the after cat sensors played no part in fuel metering and simply monitored the health of the cats, I disregarded them when the after-cat sensor in bank 1 was the culprit. After reading extensively on definititions and explanations of P1190 and the BMW 235 code, I still came up with nothing. Except 1, one, sole entry in a forum thread that actually made sense. Where this guy got this explanation from, I have no idea, but it sounded official. I found it here: Anyone know what this fault code means? - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum

The explanation was: BMW fault 235 = O2 sensor-heater, Post Cat. (Bank 1) Insufficient heating. "Checks the amount of time it takes to heat the o2 sensor to a predetermined limit as measured by the change in the lean signal. The test occurs during deceleration only."

It made sense because when I first took the car to the indy, the day before I had reset the light which resets the collected data. I took it for a short trip (about 30 miles) then to the indy. They said that whatever was tripping the light off, did it 32 times in that trip. I thought to myself that it is entirely possible that I decelerated 32 times.

So I picked up the O2 sensor at my local NAPA and popped it in. While the SES light was still on the dash before the repair, as soon as I got done, the light went off immediately after starting it up.

It's been about 3000 miles now since the replacement and all is well. Although gas mileage was relatively unaffected while this issue went on, I'm now averaging 20.6MPG over 2000 miles as opposed to my previous 19.1. I've also learned a valuable lesson and will never trust the generic P codes again and instead, will always get the BMW specific code first.
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