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#21
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#22
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Sorry to dig up an old thread. Its the one that I kept coming to for information, so I figured I would add my experience.
For me the left (driver) side adjuster was at 3 o'clock. Also I didn't really know what to expect with the adjuster. I expected a screw. I ended up having to take off the caliper and rotor to take a peek. I attached the picture I took for anyone who is as confused as I was. The picture is the left (driver) side rear. The gray cylindrical thing next to the spring is the adjuster. I don't think you can see the adjuster very well through the lug hole. I couldn't see it. I think you just have to know that its next to the spring and know how to adjust it. Then the rest is kind of feeling around with the screw driver. I also found this video where a mechanic shows how to adjust a Porsche parking brake. It looks similar and shows the operation of the adjuster. YouTube - DIY - changing rear brakes (and adjusting parking brake) on a water-cooled Porsche
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2003 BMW X5 Manual |
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#23
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GREAT information - Thanks. Does that mean the hole for adjustment is exactly where the caliper is?
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#24
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Quote:
Here is a picture of the 6-12o clock side, and one more of the overall.
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2003 BMW X5 Manual Last edited by kaptain; 04-17-2011 at 12:20 PM. Reason: Shrunk Pictures to not screw up formatting |
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#25
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Bump
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'03 X5 4.4 Sport, last of the M62s (8-03 build date) I believe in deadication to craftmanship in a world of mediocrity! |
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#26
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^Getting ready to do this on my MT X5 this weekend, currently it takes about 11 clicks of my E-brake to hold my X in neutral, without rolling, WAY TOO MUCH.
So I just want to be sure I have the procedure correct since there are a few in this thread: 1) Have car in gear and E-brake down when performing adjustment 2) Lift E-brake boot and loosen the nuts on the cable for tightening after the shoes are adjusted 3) Jack up one side at a time (or do I have to have both raised) and remove wheel bolt, rotate wheel till you can access star adjuster with long screwdriver 4) Tighten up the star adjuster until the wheel is not moveable, then back off by feeling the clicks until the wheel freely moves 5) After both sides are done, then go back in the cabin, and tighten the cable nuts on the lever so they aren't too tight Do I have the procedure correct?
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
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#27
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R.B., here's how I did it on all my bavarians (pretty much similar to X5 girl's method):
Raise one side, hand brake off. Wheel off. Disk off. Clean with brake cleaner all the gunk. Lubricate gently the moving points & very slight the thread (where the star screw moves). Lightly sand the interior of the disk where the parking brake shoes make contact, then clean the rust dust.
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Stable: e92is, e46 M54B25, e83 N52, e53 N62 - sold, e39 M54B30 R.I.P. |
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#28
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^Thanks Dorin! I may have to take the wheels off to do the job right.
Did you loosen the E-brake cables at the lever before adjusting the tightness at the wheels? You didn't mention that initially but I assume you did.
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
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#29
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All good info.
I believe the BMW procedure includes verifying the cable nuts at the handbrake are backed off with approx 1/4" thread showing thru the nuts. This is the starting point.
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'03 X5 4.4 Sport, last of the M62s (8-03 build date) I believe in deadication to craftmanship in a world of mediocrity! |
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#30
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RB, you asked the question while I was typing the above.
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'03 X5 4.4 Sport, last of the M62s (8-03 build date) I believe in deadication to craftmanship in a world of mediocrity! |
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