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Old 12-02-2018, 07:58 PM
Join Date: Oct 2011
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Originally Posted by jsoto View Post
Excellent Slick.
Did not even consider it

it's there but not exactly in front of me there
found it


Penny Wise, LB Foolish.

I'll wait till Cobra opens up so I can have a live conversation.
OE seals or their aftermarket seals at 75% LESS.....
Yup thatís it. The drain one was full between the magnet and bolt. I was surprised.
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Old 12-02-2018, 10:23 PM
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: nyc
Posts: 1,825
jsoto is on a distinguished road
How much crap was on the flex magnet - the thin one that sits in the slot in the casing

I'm planning on new plug and 50/50 on the flex.
With that said,I would think the magnet is still dang strong on the flex and the latter may have lost some magnetisim

Cobra is adament that if the case is cracked open, go the extra mile and change out that flex magnet.

Last edited by jsoto; 12-03-2018 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 12-04-2018, 12:33 PM
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: nyc
Posts: 1,825
jsoto is on a distinguished road
Huh. Go figure. I was all set on NV125 parts. Turns out it's a LWX500
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Old 12-04-2018, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jsoto View Post
Huh. Go figure. I was all set on NV125 parts. Turns out it's a LWX500
You don't hear much about the LWX500 transfer case. Not sure if that's because they are few and far between (apparently only used for short period in 2003) or because they are more reliable than the NV125 more commonly used on the pre-facelift cars...
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Old 12-04-2018, 03:31 PM
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: nyc
Posts: 1,825
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For the WIKI as I read this thread in whole like 9 years later....

I was all set on ordering NV125 parts. Turns out I had the LWX500.
The chain is the same. I did order from Cobra since I did call them and ask what are your thoughts on this magnetic strip. We had a conversation, they earned the business. The chain can be found for 25% less elsewhere...

The big difference was the seals for the LWX500. Buy the seals for this at your favorite OE dealer. It is cheaper.
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Old 09-14-2021, 05:01 PM
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Dublin, VA
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Great thread.

Wanted to add how to get the bearing from the rear output shaft out. Thought we were going to see it in this post quoted below but it didn't go that far. In fact I couldn't find anyone showing that on the web so here is some info.

To get the ring gear assembly out of the case, remove the output flange as shown in the quoted post below. Then the oil seal, under the oil seal is a snap ring on the shaft that has to be removed. Then press it out by pressing the shaft what would be forward when installed in the car. The bearing will be left in the case and is retained by a retaining ring (first picture I added which is looking from the inside out, Can make out the 2nd snap ring if you look hard). This retaining ring isn't in the bearings retaining ring groove but is a retaining ring that sits behind the bearing. To remove the bearing from the case it is simply remove the retaining ring and press it out (pressing same direction as the ring gear assembly). Voila.

Big thing is to remove oil seal and the snap ring that is under it, from the shaft before pressing it out. After that is is pretty obvious.

Yah my transfer case is really gunky inside. It has 184,000 miles and fluid was probably never changed. But still seems dirtier than I expected. Therefore changing all the ball bearings and the chain.


Originally Posted by dville View Post
Borrowed a deep 36mm socket from a friend.

Got off the nut from the flange, then used a 3 jaw puller to get the flange off

Case is still together very tight, so I got out my favorite Harbor Freight tool, the gear puller set:

The rod threads fit perfectly into the threads in the case

Finally, after being ever so gentle with it, I heard a slight pop sound....

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