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#1
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Quote:
According to the schematic, the output of the DME grounds the small wire through a resistor to drive the base of the PNP transistor inside the fan. So, if you want to test the fan on the bench, you should apply 12V to the terminal corresponding to the positive big wire, ground to the negative big wire, and ground (continious or intermittent) to the corresponding terminal of the small wire with a current limitting resistor in serie (value around 50 to 100 ohms). If it doesn't turn, try to lower the value of the resistance. The fan shoud turn. Don't let the fan turn for too long though, the transistor won't be in an correct air flow to cool down if tested on the bench. |
#2
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Quote:
Last edited by corNIC; 08-13-2012 at 11:10 AM. |
#3
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Yes CorNIC! the blk/green wire is a ground, I think all 3 of them came from directly through the fan motor, so meaning there's no such of fuse or relay
that could cut the power from going through, as long you got power at the plug connector head. And were both tried the same thing by sending a separate power to the fan motor itself, and if you watch closely, you can see the fan blades (jump/jolt) a little bit. Otherwise, fixing the thermostat will be a good fix for the future winter soon, but will NOT garanteed to fix the fan issue. Because I have my thermostat working great no problem, and I never had any overheated engine while driving. But my friend who has a jeep cherokee told me that his auxiliary fan was acting the same way by doing a little jump/jolt when connected, like it was going to run but suddenly stopped. He than bought a new fan which worked perfectly. By the way I'm a little curious now bcoz you claimed having a new fan and it doesn't turn on when the A/C kicks in. That made me wonder now if I ever buy this expensive auxiliary fan would it be the same for me to not able to turn on when my A/C kicks in??? This fan is like a mystery, where a few cars comes with it, but a few of them don't have it, and they're still working fine without changing the air temperature specially when sitting at the traffic or red lights. |
#4
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Yes this fan is quite the mystery for such a simple part. I would also like to point out that if the fan connecter on my car is not connected the AC condenser will not even attempt to turn on lol. I agree replacing teh thermostat should not fix this issue. I guess I'm going to also test the voltage on my power leads. I think I am correct in assuming that 12V should always be there even if the small wire is not connected.
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#5
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Now I'm also requiring about this sensor part pictured below
because a few owner claimed to replace it and turned out to be the issue And that could be the same problem for you as well. Now I'm just following another forum on this, to ensure that this is the culprit that caused my auxiliary fan to not running. If this the case than, it would be one of the easiest repair than ever because this sensor is located upfront just above the radiator on the inside, and it this NOT expensive at all. Otherwise, this aux fan seems not that important on BMW's! I guess you want to know why I say that? 1-These no such warning light/indication to tell you that aux fan has failed Ex. check brake light, check coolant level, check fog lamp, washer fluid low 2-Found a few BMW's that comes with it, and some of them don't have it which are the same year/model as well. (when I tested the head connector that bring the power, YES there's power there even when the engine's not running) Last edited by mysweetx5; 08-13-2012 at 01:49 PM. |
#6
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That small wire the the speed signal from the computer. The large two are power and ground.
Sent from my SGH-i917 using Board Express |
#7
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I'm getting 13.8V to the fan power connector! Next test I guess I need to make 100% sure the fan is still working.
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#8
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Hey CorNic,
Is your Aux Fan problem fixed? My fan never kicks on and I Am also wondering why. No warning light on my X.
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2003 X5 4.4i w/ Sport Pkg, Cold Weather Pkg. 2010 X5 4.8i w/ Sport Pkg at 19,000 miles |
#9
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Hi, I am in the middle of replacing the Aux Fan on my 2005 E53.
I am stuck while trying to pull out the broken Aux fan. Searched and found a few helpful posts. Thank you all. ![]() Most of the posts say that the bumper need not be taken out. But I had to take out the bumper and was brave enough to remove the cross member too. ![]() At this point I have access to the fan and plenty of room to pull it out. Removed the two M6 bolts which I think are the only thing holding the fan. ![]() But the problem is something is still holding the fan. Found the following illustration(assuming I can attach the image) on one of the manuals. It is pointing to a 'COWL' in the installation section. "Installation: Attach cowl of auxiliary fan to holders (1) on left and right." Trying to figure out (reverse from the instructions) how to detach from the COWL. Any help will be greatly APPRECIATED. Thank you in advance. Cheers ! ******** I will also open a new thread since this is very old thread************ Last edited by ssx5; 10-06-2013 at 04:42 PM. |
#10
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Keeping this thread alive, I'm replacing mine as well for an 2003 E53. There r a number of units available at pricing from $150 and up. What is the general feeling as to which to purchase? I'm considering a TYC for $198 because its a local shop. Appreciate any recommendations.
Bob
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Bob Schultz Atlanta Ga 2003 X5 1987 Porsche 911 Targa 1995 F150 work truck |
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64 54 6 921 381, air conditioning, aux fan, auxiliary fan, compression shroud |
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