Oil Separator Info / True solution.

[330]

I looked at the oil cap, it would be very difficult to tap it and attach afitting. The VNOS chains are directlt below the cap with little to no clearence.

[amacman]

Oh well , it will need to be a " T " connector on the hose from cam cover to oil separator .
need to figure something with valves onto T connector .

[330]

Can that hose be easily removed, I don't recall from memory. If so it would be worth cleaning out now and then. Valve could then be fitted in hose out of the car.

[amacman]

make up the vent valves onto T connector .
if possible , cut hose so as to introduce T .secure with jubilee clips
I don`t want to be in my engine bay at the moment with hard ice all around the car .

[330]

Agreed. I'm going to take a look tonight. A picture of the hose would be good, there are two if I remember.

[330]

Well, it happened again but this time I was prepared. Four days of sub freezing weather and I park outside. My drive to work is 20 min on a back road so moisture is an issue.
After 10 min this morning I started seeing more smoke than normal, so I pulled over. for the past two months I've been driving with the dip stick in with only one O ring fully pressed in. Since the engine is normally under slight vacuum this was fine, ran great for two months. When I opened the hood I saw oil getting by the O ring and leaking. It was under pressure so the moister in the OS or feed hose was frozen. I pulled the dipstick and released the remaining pressure then reinserted it to one o ring only. I started it and continued, more smoke came out, after 5 min. alot of smoke was coming out so I pulled over again. This time there was no pressure when I pulled the dip stick. I continued again and after another 5 minutes the smoke cleared.

Keep in mind I replaced the OS (upgraded) and all associated parts about 8K miles ago. looks like it froze again, built pressure in the engine enough to get into the combustion chamber and exit out of the dip stick. The amount of oil that went into the combustion chamber was minimal since the dip stick acted like a relief valve.

What a poor design! Again it didn't cost me anything and I will continue to run it with the dip stick in with only one O ring. I can't imagine the people who use the dealer and have to pay for this every time it happens?

Drivers door doesn't freeze anymore, I put heat shrink tubing filled with grease over the cable and linkage assembly. Yes I was in there because by door handle fell off!

[ernaldamerican]

330

Did you have the dipstick replaced with single wall?

[330]

No, just upgraded OS, hoses, VC gasket, intake gasket, intake belly pan, water pump.

[ernaldamerican]

330

I had my OS valve fail over the holidays. I was told by dealer that the oil dipstick tube needed to be replaced along with the 4 hoses and the valve iteslf. The original dipstick tube was a double wall design. The new is single wall. Now if you have seen the double wall (and i will try to upload tongiht a picture of it tonight) you can see where it would be easy to clog the outer wall because the clearance between it and the inner wall for the dipstick is minimal at best. The new single wall just has the OS dumping around the dipstick. I would consider replacing the dipstick tube to the new design. the problem is it costs 220 at dealers.Its redicuslous but my thought behind this is that with the single wall design the tube is likely to get clogged as it was in double wall design. JMO

[ernaldamerican]

In the attached document you will see what the two wall dipstick tube looks like. There are three channels in which the oil from the OS valve can flow down to oil pan. As you can see the slots or distance between the inner wall and outer wall are not that wide. Slug or the milky substance you see under cap gets put down here. It’s easy to see how it could clog the gap between inner and outer wall. The single wall has just one cavity and the OS valve dumps onto actual dipstick. Not changing the dipstick tube IMO could cause the reoccurrence of the problem.